| Posted: Tue Nov 1st, 2005 04:10 PM |
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rek41
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I lost my mind over the weekend and bought 2 Cap & Ball Pistols. A 36 Cal Navy and a 44 cal Army. I haven't shot black powder in over 45 years. I can use all the help available. Powder types, charges, types of grease, etc. Your input is appreciated.
Thanks
Bob K
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| Posted: Fri Nov 4th, 2005 08:13 AM |
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Blkpwdernut
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Well before your Questions can be answered I would need to know a few things.
1. New or Used?
New ones should come with manuals from the factory that will give you maximum loads for each individual piece.
2. Brand?
Each brand is built to different standards are they Uberti, Pietta?
3. Are they steel or brass framed?
Steel framed are more durable than their brass framed brethren and can stand up to "full power" rounds longer without damage.
As far as powder goes the Lyman book that came with my rifle states FFFg in pistols and rifles up to .50 cal and FFg in .50 cal and larger (although I use FFFg in my .54 Gpr and reduce my loads 10%)
Let me know the answers to my questions and I'll go into more depth with you and always remember that what mine may like yours may get no accuracy with.
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| Posted: Sat Nov 5th, 2005 12:00 AM |
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3rd Post |
rek41
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BPN, Both are used and are marked FIE Italy. I think Firearms Import Export went bankrupt years ago. They appear to be Uberti, I understand Uberti made percussion pistols for FIE in the 80s & 90s. The 1851 Navy .36 cal has an engraved brass frame, engraved cylinder and engraved barrel. The 1858 New Army is .44 cal, steel frame, brass trigger guard. The cylinder on the 44 cal locks in dead tight when the hammer is cocked, while the .36 has just a tad of movement. The nipples on both revolvers are in excellent condition as well as the bores. Neither came with manuals or any accessories. Any info you care to share will be helpful. I am just looking for plinking load info with 25 yards, give or take, max range.
Thanks,
Bob
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| Posted: Sat Nov 5th, 2005 03:55 AM |
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4th Post |
drinks
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A good place to start would be 15gr in the .36 and 25gr in the .44.
This is with FFFG.
Be sure to put a sealant on the face of the cylinder before firing it. Crisco, Snowdrift or any cheap vegetable oil shortenig in box or can will do.
This is to prevent a chain fire of all or most of the loads in the cylinder due to side ways flash from a shot.
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| Posted: Sat Nov 5th, 2005 04:29 AM |
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Blkpwdernut
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.36 cal .380 roundball 16 grns 3f min 25 grns 3f MAX
.36 cal .380 conical 12 grns 3f min 15 grns 3f MAX
.44 cal .454 roundball 22 grns 3f min 30 grns 3f MAX
.44 cal .454 conical 19 grns 3f min 25 grns 3f MAX
Remember black powder is measured by volume and not weight always make sure when using roundballs that it should shave a small amount of lead when seating them into the chambers for an air tight seal I have heard of using as large a ball as .458 in a .44 to get a good seal.
Always make sure the ball is seated on the powder,an air gap could cause the pistol to turn into shrapnel in your hand,the ball/conical should be just below the top of the chamber so use a filler like corn meal or a lubricated felt wad when shooting the smaller charges.
Any lube you choose to use will work as long as it isnt petroleum based, petroleum based lubes turn the fouling into a tar like gunk that is a pain to clean if you have nothing else plain ol crisco shoprtening will work.
Make sure to use the proper sized percussion caps, a lot of the older C&B revolvers used # 10 caps which can be hard to find in some locales if they do use #10s you can substitute #11 s and "pinch them before seating them on the nipple.It is very important that the caps fit the nipples snugly or they can dislodge under recoil opening you up to the possibility of a chain fire CAN BE DISATROUS.
BLK
Last edited on Sat Nov 5th, 2005 04:31 AM by Blkpwdernut
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| Posted: Sat Nov 5th, 2005 01:57 PM |
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rek41
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Thanks for all the info. Am I to understand that I should use something like Crisco as a weapons lube? I took the .36 down last night and cleaned it up. Everything was dry as a bone. I used MilTech grease on the cylinder pin and put a few drops of MilTech oil on all of the other working parts. I really don't need to make myself any more work in the clean up phase.
Bob
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| Posted: Sat Nov 5th, 2005 08:01 PM |
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7th Post |
Blkpwdernut
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No no, sorry, regular oil will work fine to lube your pins and such, I meant crisco will work as a lube to cover the balls once you get them seated and to help prevent a chain fire, and will lube the ball as it goes down the barrel and help keep the fouling soft.
Blk
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| Posted: Sat Nov 5th, 2005 10:42 PM |
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rek41
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Thanks, That is what I thought. I just wanted to make sure. I don't need any more work cleaning up guns. I have enough of that with my old WW1 & WW2 stuff.
Bob
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| Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2005 01:13 AM |
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Charley
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If I remember correctly, FIE imported stuff made by Pietta. Nowhere near Uberti quality, but safe guns. Do watch the brass frames, we have heard for years how they stretch and jump time in the opentop Colt designs. I'm not so sure...I think more are distorted by folks horsing the loading lever than shooting. BPN has pretty well covered everything else. If you can't GET BP, percusion revolvers will work with Pyrocrap or other pretend black powders.
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rek41
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Thanks Charley, I wasn't planning on loading it up to the max. I just want to plink with it. If I want a real power load, I will move over to a smokless variety semi-auto.
Bob
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