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wheel weights
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Timberghozt
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 Posted: 13 February 2007 03:11 AM

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I am picking up a 5 gallon bucket of wheel weights tomorrow.How should I mix this with my linotype for 38 Special 158 grains SWC`S.?
I PLAN TO SHOOT EM AT ABOUT 750-800 FPS?
:shootfoot:



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Charley
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 Posted: 13 February 2007 03:28 AM

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Straight WW will usually work fine at that velocity. If you have trouble getting the mold to fil out, add some 95/5 solder to the mix. Tin makes the alloy flow and fill out better.



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 Posted: 13 February 2007 04:40 AM

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TG;
You need to put the linotype away, it is not a very good material for cast bullets, very brittle.
Use it mostly to add some tin and antimony to a very soft alloy.
Just plain wws is about the best for 90% of what you will shoot.
It has lead, antimony, tin and arsenic in it to start with, at least all the wws I have come up with have those.
Concentrate on being sure the bullet is larger than the groove diameter of the barrel, you have a good lube on the bullet and you use the slowest powder that will give the velocity you want.
:thumbs:

Timberghozt
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 Posted: 14 February 2007 02:45 AM

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Thanks fellas.The guy at the tire shop gave me a five gallon bucket of wheel wights.I bet it weighed 150 pounds..:thumbs:
He said he could get me a bucket like that about every week..:woot:
Free bullets for my 357!!!and 38 Special plinkers...Next mold is gonna be for my 45-70:tytyty:



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 Posted: 14 February 2007 04:53 AM

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Yuz hukd fer lif, :cool::thumbs::troll:
Next comes the bushel basket of molds! :lol:

Ranch 13
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 Posted: 14 February 2007 05:04 PM

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I like wheelweights for most everything I shoot cast in. Need to flux the heck out of them and keep the scum scraped off the top.

 velocity to 1600+ isn't out of the question, just have to be mindful of bullet fit and lube.

Woodgoat
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 Posted: 14 February 2007 11:32 PM

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Ranch 13,  when you shoot wheel weights in your bpcr, do you size the bullets slightly over groove diameter, or right on the groove diameter? 



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Ranch 13
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 Posted: 15 February 2007 12:48 AM

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Woodgoat I size them .002 over, just like I do with 20-1. 45-70 gets sized to .460 and the 405 goes at .414

Timberghozt
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 Posted: 16 February 2007 01:04 AM

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I am getting another 5 gallon bucket Monday...:cool:
Ok, when the lead melts does the steel peice that attaches to the vehicles hub sink? or does it come to the surface?:confused:



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 Posted: 16 February 2007 01:17 AM

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Steel is much lighter than lead.
I use a 1x2" magnet in a pair of vise grips in one hand and a welding glove on the other to remove the clips, just pass the magnet slowely over the pot, then use the welding glove to wipe them off the the magnet.

Timberghozt
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 Posted: 16 February 2007 01:53 AM

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Thanks Don.I am really liking this casting stuff.I wish I would have learned to do it when I was younger.I really can save a lot of money on my 38/357 loads with doing this.
It is amazing how much lead you can scrounge if ya just look.:cool:
I am not sure which mold to get for a 30-30:confused:I have my dads model 94 that was a wedding present when he married my mother,given to him by my grandpa.Its iron sights only and I`m thinkin a 150 gr or 170 gr hardcast would make a good deer   shooter for close range 100 yards or so.:confused:What do you think Don?



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 Posted: 16 February 2007 02:25 AM

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Gene;
Lee has 2 nice molds, the C309-150-F and the C309- 170-F.
Get some .30 cal. gas checks from Gator checks in La., much better and cheaper than the Hornady the dealers carry.
Then slug the barrel and order a Lee sizer/ checker die .'002" larger than the groove diameter put on a good lube and start shooting.
I have good results with 31gr Varget or 35gr BLC-2 with either, also 32gr IMR4064.
If you have IMR 3031, it was actually designed for the .30-30 and .32 SP.




Timberghozt
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 Posted: 16 February 2007 02:35 AM

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ahh.thanks for the tip drinks.I do have one pound of 3031!:thumbs:



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 Posted: 16 February 2007 04:09 AM

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To help save your back leave two or three buckets to break that weight up:thumbs:When picking up wheel weights for shot I have had the bail break when carrying the bucket:shameon:

owlcreekok
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 Posted: 28 March 2007 02:17 PM

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I'm trying to catch up here, lol.

 

I have casted many a thousand .38 and .45 bullet from a 50-50 alloy of Lead and wheelweight. As recent as a week ago I was out there in the early morning running a 4 cav SWC and a couple 2 cav's. Fun stuff.

 

I render my scrounged wheelweights ina cast iron pot over a gas burner. The steel clip come to the top and I scoop them off with a "holy" spoon. I flux with beeswax, and - or paraffin, mix, flux, skim, flux, mix, try to get air down into the molten metal (even while fluxing a bottom pour during actual bullet casting). I then throw 1 pound ingots. My last 5 gal bucket of wheelweight gave me about 65 pounds of clean ingots.

 

I get a small amount of leading from my bullets. Very insignificant. I use a Lewis lead remover when and IF I get a buildup. I lube exclusively with Javelina Alox lube. (I bought a large amount 15 years ago.)  For my precious supply of Linotype, I reserve for rifle bullets. I use an alloy that calls for 6 lbs wheel weights, 4 pounds of linotype and one pound lead. I add a pound of 50 - 50 bar solder occasionally to 10 or 20 lbs if my molds don't want to fill out. I have also found that this will make the frost go away better. (Too hot will frost too). I drove this alloy in 7mm and .30 upwards of 1600 FPS with zero leading in a T/C Contender.

 

I have an RCBS 165 SIL mold that worked real nicely when I played with .30-30 cast bullets. It has a flat point. Only two driving bands, hence one lube groove. I kept it slow (under 1500 FPS) and never found evidence of leading.  I used them in a M-1 Garand ONCE. THAT leaded the gas system badly. Don't take me long to hate life with a lead fouled gas port and gas block.

I might croak from lead poisoning. As long as it ain't from an instantaneous overdose of lead, at least I will have had fun. (kidding)



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Timberghozt
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 Posted: 29 March 2007 02:06 AM

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Hey owlcreek .I appreciate the info.I am still learnin this casting stuff.I am using the Javelina lube also.I ordered a couple of sticks form Midway and I like the stuff.!:thumbs:



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 Posted: 30 March 2007 05:06 PM

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Gene,

If your going to be doing a lot of casting, pick up a can of this stuff.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=1132&s=

It's great for fluxing the metal before casting. You can use a small piece of Parrifin Wax, but Marvelux is much better, and it doesn't smoke as much. This stuff allows all of the metals, (Lead, Tin, Antimony), to blend together. 1 can will last damn near forever.  Bill T.

Timberghozt
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 Posted: 30 March 2007 09:53 PM

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Hey Bill..thanks for the tip bro.I sure will get it.I wanted to order a barrel and some tools from Brownells anyway.I`ll add it to my order.:thumbs:



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owlcreekok
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 Posted: 30 March 2007 09:57 PM

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I been lookin at that Marvelux in Brownell's for years. I duuno why I don't try it.:smack:

 

Nuther thing I do that seems to help. I cut me a piece of sheet aluminum to just fit on top of my furnace. Notched it out all around them thingys that sticks up frum that old Saeco. Seems the metal don't get all nasty as fast that way.



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Drygulch
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 Posted: 4 June 2008 07:40 PM

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Your lucky Timberghost,

 

Wheel weights are great but are hard to come by in some areas and states. Scrap lead here in Cal is over a dollar a pound. I cast for almost all the big bores, and the 45-70 WILL eat up a lot of lead.

Rod

Last edited on 4 June 2008 07:46 PM by Drygulch


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