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 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2009 06:00 PM
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drinks
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The first post stated the rifle was made in 1879, therefor it would be a 1876, not an 1886.
The 1892, as such, was rare in .218 Bee, but the remodeled and renumbered successor, 53, was fairly common in Bee.

Last edited on Tue Oct 27th, 2009 06:06 PM by drinks



 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2009 07:28 PM
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Ranch 13
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40-82 is fairly simple. just run 45-90 cases thru the resizer die and you're done.

 Accurate used to have data available using 5744 powder. But to fully enjoy the rifle as it was intended just fill the case with 82 grs of 1 or 2f bp seat the bullet and have a good time.



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:29 AM
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halfdiamondc
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Sorry the 1879 was a typo it was supposed to be 1897, my fault.  Half



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:50 AM
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drinks
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Whoop, you mean a shotgun?
That is what a 1897 was.

Last edited on Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:50 AM by drinks



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:53 AM
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Ranch 13
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NO he means his 1886 was manufactured in 1897.



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 04:32 AM
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halfdiamondc
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Hell you got me wondering what I got, one more time it's a model 1886, 40/82 mfg'd in 1897. The mfg. date was obtained from a magazine listing ser#. The magazine could be wrong, but I have a nice 40/82 win. model 1886.     Half



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 05:07 AM
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Half I think you can get some proper cast bullets for it from http://www.montanabulletworks.com
If they dont'have any give http://www.buffaloarms.com a try.
You may want to drop Accurate Arms powder a line and ask them for load recommendations. Their 5744 is real good at making the big old bp cartridges run , if a person is so inclined to use smokeless powder.



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 05:12 AM
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MontanaShooter
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montana bullet work is kinda overpriced. I dont mean in paticular. But in bullet casting they all see overpriced. Buy a mold and make them yourself outta wheel weights and youll see what i mean.



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 05:19 AM
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halfdiamondc
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Thank you, I don't think that I will reload any cuz I still have 40 rounds and haven't gathered enough stones to fire it. Elk season starts here tomorrow and if an old bull shows up in this old bulls backyard I will try it out as a tribute to my grandfather, it has happened before.    Half



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 05:19 AM
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MontanaShooter wrote: montana bullet work is kinda overpriced. I dont mean in paticular. But in bullet casting they all see overpriced. Buy a mold and make them yourself outta wheel weights and youll see what i mean.

 Haven't checked them for awhile but they're usually the cheapest to be found especially for these old cartridges. Plus they have a big selection of bullets.And the bullets they cast are first rate quality.

While casting your own is definetly the best way to go. Buying a few bullets of different styles to try is a better route than buying a mold and finding out that bullet it drops won't do what you want



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 05:22 AM
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halfdiamondc wrote: Thank you, I don't think that I will reload any cuz I still have 40 rounds and haven't gathered enough stones to fire it. Elk season starts here tomorrow and if an old bull shows up in this old bulls backyard I will try it out as a tribute to my grandfather, it has happened before.    Half

 Be advised if those are the old factory rounds they may or may not go off. They also most likely have corrosive primers so you'll want to scrub that barrel down with a good ammonia cleaner and don't forget to wash and rinse the empties.

 Bring us back pictures of your elk.



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 05:25 AM
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none are cheap my friend if you do it yourself right, i use linotype most the time. They usually come out within a grain. seems i bought some 38 semi wadcutters that were montana bullet works if i remember right and they were like 15 dollars per hundred.... which wasnt cheap considering i can made 700 in a couple hours over two evenings with in a grain or less. Of course theres lead cost, which i paid 35 bucks for almost 80 pounds of wheel weights and the linotype i just had lol but anyways naw any ready made bullet aint a bargain



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 05:27 AM
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halfdiamondc
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Well  thank you again, These are the loads out of New Mexico purchased just a couple of years ago, but a good scrub will take place if it is fired.    Half



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 02:40 PM
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MontanaShooter wrote: none are cheap my friend if you do it yourself right, i use linotype most the time. They usually come out within a grain. seems i bought some 38 semi wadcutters that were montana bullet works if i remember right and they were like 15 dollars per hundred.... which wasnt cheap considering i can made 700 in a couple hours over two evenings with in a grain or less. Of course theres lead cost, which i paid 35 bucks for almost 80 pounds of wheel weights and the linotype i just had lol but anyways naw any ready made bullet aint a bargain
 

:rolleyes:Well by golly welcome to the forum, why there ain't hardly anybody here that casts any bullets.

 There sure isn't anybody here that cast bullets for the old guns, and most certainly nobody that shoots their own cast bullets regularly in 1000 yd competition.
 Or for the more mundane stuff like leverguns to 250 or handgun competitions, or hunting.:troll:



 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 07:20 PM
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Ranch 13 wrote: MontanaShooter wrote: none are cheap my friend if you do it yourself right, i use linotype most the time. They usually come out within a grain. seems i bought some 38 semi wadcutters that were montana bullet works if i remember right and they were like 15 dollars per hundred.... which wasnt cheap considering i can made 700 in a couple hours over two evenings with in a grain or less. Of course theres lead cost, which i paid 35 bucks for almost 80 pounds of wheel weights and the linotype i just had lol but anyways naw any ready made bullet aint a bargain
 

:rolleyes:Well by golly welcome to the forum, why there ain't hardly anybody here that casts any bullets.

 There sure isn't anybody here that cast bullets for the old guns, and most certainly nobody that shoots their own cast bullets regularly in 1000 yd competition.
 Or for the more mundane stuff like leverguns to 250 or handgun competitions, or hunting.:troll:


Now Don, be nice to the new guy. Hey, I'm taking up Paper Patching. Gettin' a new BACO mould. Gotta try PP at 1000 yards. Should have my head examined fer adding more steps to my loading process.

Reslugging my barrel and doin' another chamber cast, I lost that data when I moved out here. Then I'll cypher what I need for a boolit. Ahhh, another winter time project.

 

Regards,

Bill



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 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 08:12 PM
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Well alright Bill....:sad:

If I was going to do one of the Baco molds, I'ld call em and have them build me one of the Wasserburger 517 gr. I think that bullet has about as much downrange target ability as any going. Kenny seats that bullet pretty deep in his 110 and it's pretty tuff to argue his results.

Rick Mulhern is sending me up his Brooks creedmore adjustable. I shot some that he cast at 560 but I think that's just a bit heavy unless your running well over 100 grs of powder. Figure to set it down to around 500 and see what it'll do.

Can tell you if your shooting pp in a case 2.6 or under cutting down the Norma basic is the way to go. Stuff is pretty thick when you get it trimmed up and that helps to keep the nasty paper rings out of your way.

 PP is fun but I like having my grease grooves on hand so I can go shoot for serious from time to time

Speaking of BACO mold Dick Savage sent me some of the .413 gc for the 405. He's getting some pretty wowser accuracy from his 95 with them and 5744. I haven't had a chance to shoot them yet from the #2 alloy, but the previous batch of 20-1 I shot at the match at Ekalaka sure showed some promise.



 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 01:05 AM
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BPCR Bill
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Don, I got some swaged bullets from BACO earlier this year, .441" 540 gr. Patched them to .450 bore diameter with 9# onion skin. My brass is HDS and RCBS. The HDS was basic trimmed back, and the RCBS was properly headstamped 45-110. (I heard somewhere that it was supposed to be made by Norma). The patched bullets were a bit loose in the neck even with F/L sizing. Finally got enough neck tension and they showed some promise at 1000. Never got a paper ring during firing.(50 rounds) I'll probably settle on the .446" 525 Money mould and wrap it to .451 or so. I'll definitley keep my GG bullets. Both my heaters love that 550 gr Hoch.

Regtards,
Bill:thumbs:

Last edited on Thu Oct 29th, 2009 01:07 AM by BPCR Bill



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 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 01:34 AM
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Those BACO molds are really nice ones. They throw really nice smooth and round bullets.
I've got a .400 350 pp mold of theirs that you don't even need to open, just cut the sprue and turn it over, the bullet will drop right out.



 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 02:21 AM
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I think that I mentioned that I cast my own for my 40-82 rifles. I use a Hoch mold with great results. In my single shot I use 60 grains of FFFg over a greased wad. The lube that I use and have used for years is one that Elmer Keith and some others told me about back around about 1960 and that is a 50/50 mix of beeswax and waterpump grease which is getting sort of scarce in this day and age. And I also think that I had mentioned that my oldest boy who lives up in Alaska uses his 40-82 on big game there. He uses a paper-patched 260 grain lead bullet over 50 grains of 3031 with excellent results. In my custom M-71 in 40-82, I use 58 grains of 3031 under a 260 grain jacketed flatnose by Barnes. It does a great job also. I just use BP in my single-shot and at distances as I built it as a long range target rifle.



 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 02:44 AM
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I know a fella out of Iowa that shoots the bpcr longrange circuit, that built a trapdoor into a 4082. He took it on its maiden voyage at the Sagebrush shoot this past August. The wind really kicked its butt, but he says now he's got along the kinks worked out of it, and it's bucking the wind much better now. I think he went to a 430 gr bullet.



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