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AuthorPost
 Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 05:31 PM
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I've been noticing that there is some discussion about muzzle breaks - some of which has been the fact that they are "noisy"..

Yeah they are, unless you are bench or varmint shooting. In that case you should be wearing ear protection if you don't want to say "huh" a lot..

If you are hunting, you wouldn't notice noise if you were shooting at a ....  take your pick of game...

The point of my post is to tell you about my experiences with brakes.

1. 375 H&H mag - Bought with a KDF installed. Very effective, but above the level of a 35 Whelen.

2. 300 Weatherby Mag Vanguard w/composite stock. Bbl diameter Graham brake. 30-06 level.

3. 35 Remington T/C S14. Bbl diameter Graham brake. 357 mag+ level.

4. 45 Win Mag T/C S14. Oversize Graham brake. 45 Colt level.

Graham is Barry Graham of Denver, CO.  I can attest to the fact that he does excellent work, with fast turn around... He's not on line, probably too busy working.

His number is 303/912-7381.

I have a few advertsing cards on hand. If you would like one, please PM me.

I don't have any monetary interest in Mr. Grahams business, but I feel more people should know about his services..:thumbs:


Hope I got this in the right category -



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 Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 05:47 PM
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miestro_jerry
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I have one on my 45-70 Contender and plan to put one on my 300 RUM. It's not the noise, it's the blast that goes to the sides. So don't be the guy standing by a person with a muzzle brake.

Jerry



 Posted: Sat Oct 3rd, 2009 03:27 PM
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Moreguns
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I use Magna Break from Magna Port. They are very effective. I like them.



 Posted: Sat Oct 3rd, 2009 09:02 PM
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RaySendero
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I won't use one on my hunting rifles.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 10th, 2009 08:24 PM
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I made muzzle brakes for my 50 caliber rifles and they work great!  Makes them kick like a 30-30 but I "pity the fool" that stands side of the shooter and gets hit with the blast!
Scooter



 Posted: Sun Oct 11th, 2009 01:47 PM
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I have 2 PGWDTI rifles, 1 in .308 and the other in .338LM, and they are very loud - especially the .338LM - but the .338LM has a concussion that's unbelievable.  While using my digital camera in movie mode - vid'ing a friend - the concussion blew out the mic.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 11th, 2009 05:31 PM
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Paul B
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I only have one rifle with a muzzle brake, my Ruger #1 in .404 Jeffery. I later found out it was one of the very few from the factory with a brake making it one of the rarer models. I dunno what the .404 would kick like without a break but I imagine it would be close to what my unbraked .416 igby puts out which gets a tad uncomfortable from the bench. Recoil from the .404 feels like a very hot loaded 30-06 in a lightt weight rifle. Loud as hell though.

Paul B.



 Posted: Sun Oct 11th, 2009 06:08 PM
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Scooter, have pics or can you send me details. I have need of one, wc



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 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 02:36 AM
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scooter58
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Hi Paul, 
What size rifle is it going on?  50?    I can advise you about making one but I don't have any prints.  I started with 4140 steel and went from there.  I don't know how to post pics on this site but could email a pic of my 50  to you if I had your email.

Regards,
Scooter



 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 08:48 PM
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Scooter, check you PM, wc



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 Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 02:37 AM
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StretchNM
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A guy at the range yesterday was telling me about a muzzle brake he had put on his 22-250. He also had a .270 with him that he showed me with a muzzle break on it. Anyway, he was saying that it reduces the recoil so much in the 22-250 that you can see your bullet impact, that there is virtually no recoil.

He was also saying that these screw-on brakes cost about $150 to have put on and the gunsmith and model he uses doesn;t change point of impact when the brake is removed.

What do you guys know about that?



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 Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 04:36 AM
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depends....several factors here...muzzle breaks or rtaher decent ones do work ..at a cost,louder,as well as cost, i have a few guns with as well as quite a few barrels, i see them on .22's even and umm believe it or not on some air rifles, i have a heavy barreled varmint rig as well as a sporter barrel in the same caliber the heavy and longer barrel kicks alot less,while i cant say that i see the bullet impact it does let me watch a prairie rat explode,the sporter barrel wont,if it's a big caliber it may tame it down but .....it wont stop it from recoiling, on the dreaded assault tools it will help control muzzle climb but not eliminate it,as for prices they vary depending upon the gunsmith as well say a premade brake, i used to love the oddity of the "tank type" breaks they mite look funny but they do two things ,they reduce recoil by directing the gases and by adding weight ,depending upon the brake the theory runs that they shouldnt change the p.o.a. or at least by much , cans also do not change the p.o.a.( at least good ones )



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 Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 10:31 AM
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Scooter, thanks for the pics. Got me to "thunkin" now. Question, if I direct the ports slighty upward would that eliminate muzzle climb. Tried it??? wc



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 Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 12:17 PM
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-6 wrote: Scooter, thanks for the pics. Got me to "thunkin" now. Question, if I direct the ports slighty upward would that eliminate muzzle climb. Tried it??? wc
Yes, angling the ports should help with climb.  You can see this in use on race guns and trap guns for that reason alone where the barrels themselves are ported.  It does work.  Mag-na-port (http://www.magnaport.com/) gives some applications, I think there are others.  I have to admit I thought for a long time that the whole concept was exaggerated until I bought the Citori.  Porting does help with recoil and recovery on target.  I can't see why angling the ports on a brake wouldn't have the same effect.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 12:23 PM
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Thanks Ghrit, Brakes on 14s are open except on the bottom. That way it doesn't kick up dust and helps keep the climb down. Guess it will work elsewhere also, wc



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 Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 12:49 PM
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My experience with muzzle brakes has been limited.

My CETME has what we here call the "Century Muzzle Blast Enhancer".  It does have bottom ports, as I found when using a GI blanket on the bench - it has some holes scorched into it!  It is said by some CETME owners that the later models without brakes tend to have more felt recoil.

When I modified my Remington 870 shotgun into a home defense type, I shortened the barrel to 20 inches, and drilled ports in the top of the muzzle end.  It definitely helps, though the flash is noticible in darkness.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 10:42 PM
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_6

I have a angled back port on my brakes and it works very well.  I think it would work if you wanted to angle upward but on mine the weight of the gun and brake keeps the gun down pretty well.  My big 50 weights in around 35-38 lbs   and the little one around 29 - 32 lbs.   I can fire the little one from my shoulder  and I don't have to have a shoulder replaced after!
I don't recommend holes in the bottom of the brake.

So are you thinking about a 50 build??

Regards,
Scooter



 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 01:19 PM
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No but a friend is putting one together. I don't like guns or people who do. Lost mine in the boating accident last year, wc



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 Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 05:30 AM
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pegleg4570
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I have  an Answer Products Muzzle Break on  my 300 RUM Tamed that  Puppy  down.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 30th, 2009 07:37 AM
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nail driver
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i have a muzzle brake on my 308 norma mag it tamed the rcoil down so much that you wont lose sight of what you are looking at through the scope,the wife says it's comparable to shooting her 25-06



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