| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 10:53 PM |
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Ringo
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I'm curious as to some quick thoughts on the Ruger number 1.
(quick aside - I searched the rifle forums for this specific issue, but the search function hates me. So if this has been debated ad nauseum, please point me that way.)
I understand that the competition for a Ruger #1 is the TC Encore as a single shot, but I'm curious to know if the Ruger has any advantages? I dont know why, but aesthetically I love the look of the single shot Ruger and I understand that they can be made to have barrel changability? Anyone have one, or have specific thoughts vs. other models?
-R.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 07:21 PM |
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fishinginflorida
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I have one in 280 rem it is nice and looks classy but it did take some getting use to in confined areas. When its held past the horizontal with the barrel pointed up you have to make sure the bullet doesn't slide back out. This ain't too bad, it will just happen once then you'll learn.
I don't have a TC but I have hunted with one, it breaks open like a shot gun and I think reloads better in areas with restricted movement. Its accurate, has a bunch of barrels to chose from from muzzle loader to 458win mag(I think).
I'm sure there are people on here who can really give you good info about the ruger #1.
Mine is a gift from my father and I just had a problem one time when I was in a hurry, thought I had a bad shot but it was good enough, a four point ran about 30 yards before calling it quits. I usually hunt with a shotgun and/or 30 30, mostly shotgun. I've never shot nothing that was living over a hundred yards away.
flatlander
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| Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 07:46 PM |
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Dirtkicker
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Hello, Ringo. I have #1 heavy-barrel varmint in .223. I bought it at a good price and because it had really nice wood on it. I have several other .223s and haven't done hardly anything with this rifle except to sight it in.
Many #1 have "accuracy issues" and need some fiddling to bring them up to their capability. There are various gadgets on the market to help with this process— or at least their ads say they will help.
One day I will get the time to play with this rifle and see what it can be made to to. You are right: they sure are purty.
(I also have a TC Contender carbine. There is no doubt that the Ruger is several cuts above the TC is 'lookable' quality, but there are no flies on the Contender. That little rifle will shoot!
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| Posted: Sat Aug 22nd, 2009 05:31 AM |
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StretchNM
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I have a Ruger #1-V in 25-06. Just last Saturday, I shot a 4-shot group of .4" using Nosler 115gr BalTips, 50gr RL22, WLR primers, and OAL of 3.200. THat's been my best, or one of my best so far, out of a rifle that normally shoots about .7" to 1-1/4".
The interesting thing was: normally, I shoot of a tripod rest, on a sandbag, with 2 or 3 sandbags in the rear. I rest the forestock on the sandbag as close to the action as I can. However, last Sat, I bought and installed one of those made in China Harris bipod takeoffs. This rests the forestock way out at the end where the sling swivel is. Figuring that maybe I was onto something, I shot another group of Sierra 120gr Gamekings, using the same load as above but with an OAL of 3.145. The group opened up to about 1-1/4". Hmmmmmmm....
Anyway, I love that #1. There are some home-accurizing tricks (posts on another forum) that do NOT involve drilling the hanger or anything. I have not tried these but I have considered ordering the Hicks Accurizer. My rifle doesn;t need it - it's a 1" MOA rifle with my handloads - but we're ALWAYS looking for greater accuracy.
The only complaint I have with my #1 is that the safety tang lever protrudes ever so slightly above the feed channel. Now, this dosen't interfere with loading, but it prevents the complete extraction of the fired case because the case will hit the tang lever and leave the case lying in the feed channel. I have considered filing some of the top f the lever off but haven;t mustered the courage to do so yet.
Breaking down the #1 is pretty cool. Follow the poor instructions in the manual (Ruger needs ME to give them some pointers on how to properly explain this process in their manuals!) and pay close attention, as there is a part or three that needs a tad of basic study to make sure it goes back in right. There are "loose" parts too - meaning that they can (will) fall out as the action is taken down. Once you do it, it's ok and understandable.
Some "Best Loads" for my particular rifle are:
- Sierra 75gr Varminter HPflat, 50.0 IMR4064, CCI250Mag, OAL 3.080. Groups at .6", 1.5" high, 1" lft.
- Sierra 90gr Gameking HPBT, 49.0 H-380, CCI250Mag, OAL 3.020, Groups at .7" just about dead center.
- Nosler 115gr Ballistic Tip SPBT, 50.0 RL22, WLR, OAL 3.200. Normal group is .6", 1.5" high, dead center (this is NOT last weekend's .4" group, as that was a one-time deal........so far anyway)
- Sierra 120gr Gameking HPBT, 51.0 RL22, WLR primer, OAL 3.145. Group is 1", .5" high, 1.5" lft.
- Speer 120gr Grand Slam SPflat, 51.0 RL22, WLR primer, OAL 3.145. Group is .8", 1" below, .75" lft.
The #1V is heavy, with a 26" heavy barrel. It weighs over 10 pounds with sling and scope (Leup VXI 3-9x40). I've yet to kill an animal with it and I've only had it since about March or April or so. Due to the lever action, I can;t use it in a standard shooting rest like I do with bolt actions, because the support tube of the rest interferes with the travel of the lever. SO this rifle has to be shot with a tripod or bipod if a rest is used.
I'm not partial to the TC rifles. I've shot one at the range and seen a couple more in action. They seem to be well-built and have the advantage of swapping out barrels and calibers for about $250 I think. Still, though, I'm not impressed with the break-open action, probably becasue I'm biased toward my #1.
ON EDIT: Also, Ringo, there are some other considerations. The #1B Standards come with a sight rib. These rifles, I have read, have potential inaccuracy problems (that can be fiddled with and fixed). I don;t fully understand it and could even be wrong. but I do remember reading that recently. The #1V do not have this rib, yet they can suffer from having the forestock rubbing against the action, or the end of the forestock touching the barrel, etc. I have not suffered these problems that I'm aware of, but I havn;t fiddled with it either. It shoots well enough as is...for now.
Also, the Rugers all come with integral scope mounts and rings. Now, I kindly thought this was a gimmick at first. You know, "Order now and get FREE rings!" and all that marketing garbage that some companies will do. Then they send you some low-end trash that some other company had to pay them to take off their hands. **** BUT!!! I do have to say, Ruger spares no expense on their rings. Heavy duty, quality rings. Very nice! And if you need higher or lower rings, or offsets, don;t open the package and install the rings - just send them to Ruger and they'll swap them for what you need. Align and lap the rings before setting your scope though.
The trigger comes acceptably nice out-of-the-box. At least that's what I thought at first, compared to my Rem700 30-06. Lot's of creep and set to a very high pull weight. SO, when I'd shoot the Ruger, it felt crisp and clean. But, last week I broke that Remington down and set the trigger pull weight to about 3 pounds.... give or take a few ounces. Now I notice my #1 needs some work!!!!!! It isn;t terrible, but it's lacking. Trouble is, I don;t think these #1 triggers can be adjusted. I'll probably have to buy an aftermarket Timney or Rifle Basix or something.....
Last edited on Sat Aug 22nd, 2009 06:08 AM by StretchNM
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| Posted: Sun Aug 23rd, 2009 03:34 PM |
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klallen
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morning, ringo. my #1's a tropical in .416remmag. extreme accuracy isn't necessary for my uses and typically not a strong suit of the falling block single shot design. however, they're generally more then accurate enough for hunting and depending on the specific rifle, can indeed be scary accurate.
the falling block is the "classic" single shot design, in my opinion. i love the look and feel of the rifle. a little heavy, but in the cartridge i shoot, not entirely a bad thing.
prices have kinda gone nuts with these things on the used rack lately. it you can slip into one chambererd in a cartridge you like and priced where you're comfortable, i'd say get it.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 30th, 2009 10:33 PM |
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Paul B
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First off, I collect Ruger #1 rifles. i don't have as many as some folks do but more that the majority that have them I'm thinking. They have their problems as Stretch brought out but, for the most part they are not insurmountable. My biggest gripes about them are few but what I do consider SERIOUS.  First, I wish Ruger would put a decent recoil pad on the hard kickers. I've heard taled of broken collar bones happening to people shooting the DGR's like the .404 jeffery, .416 Rigby and .458 Win. mag.,especially when shot from the bench. I have the first two mentioned and they damn well get your attention, take my word on that. They can be managed but it takes some attention to detailregarding the shooting of those big bore guns.
My second gripe not only covers the #1 rifles, but ALL Ruger rifles. They do not seal the interior wood on them.  I have sealed all mine so that is no longer a problem.
I did learn this the hard was quite a few years back, sometime in the early mid 1980's as I recall. I did an elk hunt with friends in Eastern Oregon and got caught in a very heavy downpour of rain. I had my Ruger #1B in .300 Win. mag. with me that day and both th gun and myself were totally soaked in a matter of seconds. Well, the hunt was a bust, but when we were on the way home, we spent the night at a game ranch/club set up as one of my hunting partners managed the place. He set out a few pheasants for us to hunt and during the hunt, we saw a coyote running off with a pheasant in his mouth. The only rifle handy was my .300 so I got to shoot the "Yote". A miss. Nobody saw where the shot went so I tried again. Another miss. I shot 4 rounds trying to hit that "Yote" and to be honest, I'm not all that bad a shot. Nobody saw any bullets strikes anywhere.  After I got home to Tucson, I went to the range to try and figure out what happened. I not only could not hit the target but the bullets went over the berm as I soon found out. bad news as people live out that way. I moved the targer closer and found out the gu was shooting quite high. After cranking down every bit of elevation the scope had, I was still shooting high. Near as I could tell, I was at least 6 feet high when shooting at the "Yote".
Of the 22 #1 rifles I have only one was so bad it had to go back to the factory, a #1A in 7x57 Mauser. A gunsmith did a chamber cast that proved the throat was so far out of spec that the rifle needed a new barrel. It took Ruger 7 months to get that gun back to me but it's a tack driver now.
I do have another gun based on the #1, a Ruger action that's been restocked and barreled with a Remington Mod. 7 barrel in .223 Rem. This one has a Hicks accurizor installed and frankly, so far I am not impressed. It works as a walkabout rifle where I glass and ry to spot "Yotes" and other critters and try a stalk. Most of the time the critters win, but if it was easy, it would not be fun. I can't seem to get better than 1.5" out of that one. Guess more tinkering is in order.
On that water logged .300, it took a bit over 6 years for it to return to normal and lose all the water that soaked into the stock. Once that happened, I sealed the stock and fixed that problem.
Someone complained about the safety getting in the way when ejection a round. Yup! That happens. When at the bench I find it to be not a problem. On the hunt though, as I eject the fired round, I tilt the rifle to the right. Usually that's all it takes to have the fired, or unfired case to clear the safety. 
All my #1's are the older models with the red pad. I've heard that the newer ones with the black pad are not as prone to accuracy problems as the ones I have. Until one of the newer ones gets added to the collection, I'll with hold judgement on them, although they still probably have unsealed wood.
Paul B.
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 12:30 AM |
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David
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I love the looks of the Ruger #1's and what it means to accept a little bit more of a challenge on your hunt. I think a person tends to make sure the first shot is a good one when the second round is not going to be quite as quick behind the first. I will say with practice though, a person can shoot multiple shots pretty quickly with the Ruger single shot.
I own two Ruger #1B's. The first is in 30-06 and it has a 4x Fixed power Leupold scope on it. It will shoot 1/2-3/4 " groups all day with 165 gr. Nosler Partitions or Accubonds. My load is Winchester cases, Federal Large rifle primers, and 57.4 grs of IMR4350. This load chronographs at 2940 fps in the 26" barrel on my Ruger!! Make sure you work up to this load watching for pressure signs. It has been perfectly safe in two 30-06 rifles I have owned though.
I also have a Ruger #1B in 6mm REMINGTON. It too has a fixed power scope, a 6x42mm Leupold. It would not shoot like the 30-06 until I had my gunsmith do some work on the fore-end piece. He glass bedded it, and it shoots great now. I am using 100 gr. Nosler Partitions in this rifle with Winchester cases, Federal large rifle primers, and 43.4 grs. of IMR4350. It chronographs at 3100 fps in the 26" barrel. I have taken everything from gophers to a spike bull elk with this rifle.
I have read and understand that some of the old Ruger's such as mine sometimes would not shoot very well. Ruger used to outsource their barrels is what I understand, and sometimes the quality was not the best. I believe they now make their own barrels, or they get them from ONE specific source, and that has made a huge difference.
The Ruger #1 is one of the classiest looking rifles out there. The #1B is my pick out of all the models. It is a bit heavy to carry sometimes, but when you are tired and you pull them up to shoot, and say it's windy, the added weight really helps you settle in for the shot. I love them. I would like to see Ruger make another #1B and keep the 26" barrel, but slim it down from a medium heavy contour to a standard contour which would take a little weight out of the rifle.. I think it would be a great rifle.
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 04:51 PM |
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Paul B
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David said, "I have read and understand that some of the old Ruger's such as mine sometimes would not shoot very well. Ruger used to outsource their barrels is what I understand, and sometimes the quality was not the best. I believe they now make their own barrels, or they get them from ONE specific source, and that has made a huge difference."
That's absolutely correct. Some of the barrels were made by, I believe Douglas and wee good, but a company named Wilson provided most of the barrels fo all Ruger guns until Ruger started making their own. My #1A in 7x57 had throught so long I could almost park my truck in there.  Serously, even with the very long Hornady 175 gr. round nose bullet I couldn't even come close to the rifling and accuracy was non-existant. My gunsmith did a chamber cast of he gun and determined tht the throat was over 2" long and that it was way out of SAAMI specs for the cartridge. I sent the rifle back to Ruger and after an interminable 7 month wait my rifle came home. I mounted the scope back on the gun, bore sighted it and with a box of ammo ran my fat butt out to the range to see if they'd fixed. All Ruger said in a very short note with the rifle is, "This rifle is accurate." They installed a new barrel (One they ere now making and not another Wilson?) completely reblued and refinished the stock. You'd swear it was a brand new rifle.
So, how did it shoot? Average roups ran right around 1.25" which according to Ruger's accuracy standards is very accurate. IIRC, Ruger states that 2.0" at 10 yards is their accuracy standard. That sure does not meet my standards by any means, but fortunately most of my #1's do better than that. I do have one criteria when it comes to accuracy in my rifles. I expect consistancy over extremely small groups. I would rather have a rifle that will put five shots into 1.5" tree inches high at 100 yards,every time day in and day out than a rifle that shoots .25" but never at the same point of aim. I did have 30-06 that would do .375 to .50" groups every time. However, sighted in 3" high at 100 yards and the next group would be tiny but maybe as much as 4" from the sight in point. Cold ne up, down, left, right or off in whatever direction it wanted to do. I rebedded that gun numerous times which did not fix the problem. What did fix it was putting it into a McMillan stock and glas bedding it. groups are no onger the tiny ones from the original stock, but while only 1.25", hit right at3" high at 100 yards. It did it when I first sighted it in and evert time I shoot my particular load, it'll consistantly put those three shots exactly 3" high at 100 yards. That is the goal I strive for with every new rifle. Solid consistancy.
Of course, no one has to agre wit me. Elmer Keith once said, "I prefer to let every man scratch his own fleas in whatever manner he chooses.."  
Paul B.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 05:15 PM |
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BEAR
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I shoot three Ruger ss; 30-40, 7x57 (aka 275 Rigby( and a 300 mag.
The 7x57 I bought in '76. it is a 2 1/2 inch shooter. It is labelled "made in the 200th year of American freedom". I bought that #1 for my son the day he was born...so I don't want to rebarrel it.
All the other #1 I have are tack drivers.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 07:37 PM |
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David
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My 6mm Ruger #1B also happens to be one of the Centennial models like yours. I love that rifle. I had to have my gunsmith do some work on the fore-end, and he bedded it. It will shoot 1/2 - 3/4 inch groups now!
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| Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 08:42 PM |
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Rapier
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How did I know Paul would be here in the #1 thread? I have a couple Ruger single shooters, like a 218 Bee , a 7mm Mag and a 22 Hornet. The Hornet is a #3, which is pretty much the same action with different wood and a different leaver. When you get a #1 or #3 to shoot or that shoots there is nothing in the world wrong with them, especilly if you like one shooters, like I do.
Best,
Ed
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| Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 10:20 PM |
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Irish Bird Dog
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Well, it's way past the last post & I can't hang in there with you guys for having lots of #1's but I gotta chime in to say I have 1 lonely Ruger #1......A 1V in 22-250 with an ancient Weaver 8X scope. It can/did shoot +/- around that magical 1 inch mark, IF I did do my part. Looks like most of you all a whole lot smaller then that tho. Don't recall an exact load but I did shoot Hornady 52gr HPs when I was crow hunting with it. It's an older version that I got back in the late 70's. It's been a while since I shot it much.......maybe its time to shake the cobwebs from her and give her new optics and new loads to see how she maybe can shine again. This thread has got me thinking towards that end.
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Paul B
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Irish Bird Dog wrote: Well, it's way past the last post & I can't hang in there with you guys for having lots of #1's but I gotta chime in to say I have 1 lonely Ruger #1......A 1V in 22-250 with an ancient Weaver 8X scope. It can/did shoot +/- around that magical 1 inch mark, IF I did do my part. Looks like most of you all a whole lot smaller then that tho. Don't recall an exact load but I did shoot Hornady 52gr HPs when I was crow hunting with it. It's an older version that I got back in the late 70's. It's been a while since I shot it much.......maybe its time to shake the cobwebs from her and give her new optics and new loads to see how she maybe can shine again. This thread has got me thinking towards that end.
Bird Dag. I've noticed that the #1 rifle with the smaller bore are usually quite accurate. For example, my #1B in .22 Hornet is a .30" gun with factory ammo. The .223 #1V is .50" or less with either factory or handloads. Even the #1A in .243 will be right at one inch or slightly less.
My thoughts are it's because of the thickness of the barrel vs the diameter of the hole in the barrel. A small hole on a thick barrel would make for a very stiff combination which could contribute to the better accuracy.
Paul B.
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Irish Bird Dog
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Paulb.....since I was shooting that #1 there have been a great many new bullets and powders on the scene...ones I've only read or heard about....don't know of any really new primers 'cept maybe some BR types maybe that I never used anyway. It just may be that with some new components and optics and energy on my part I could set new goals for that ol gun. Least ways it will be interesting and a way to "stimulate" the economy which "they" say is needed. We all gotta do our part. Boy have prices gone UP.........I just checked my stock and there are unopened boxes of 100 .224 bullets marked ie from $4-8 price range.....retail that was......I been so busy shooting cast bullets/balls ie frontstuffers and BP cartridge as well as smokeless, for the past 15yrs I forgot how expensive storebought stuff has gotten......'cept fer powder I have been keeping up with that cost.
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Paul B
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I still have a few boxes of 180 gr. Sierra Pro-Hunters that are not marked as such. They were made when Sierra was still in California and the price on the boxes is $5.95. I haven't checked prices lately and I have probably 6 or 7 of those boxes left along with 5 boxes of the 220 gr. round noses from that time frame. I used to work in a gun store in San Francisco back in the mid 1960's and I got them with a serious discount so they did not even cost me that much. back then, Speer and Hornady bullets wee more expensive at that shp than the Sierras so I always stuck with them. They've served me well although I have used some Noslers, Hornady's and Speers after I left California. In some cases it was because a particular gun did not like the Sierrras.
Paul B.
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TnTom
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David wrote: My 6mm Ruger #1B also happens to be one of the Centennial models like yours. I love that rifle. I had to have my gunsmith do some work on the fore-end, and he bedded it. It will shoot 1/2 - 3/4 inch groups now!
David hit the nail on the head. Glass bed your #1 and fliers vanish. Its the nature of the beast. I shoot #1's and have always bedded them. No comparison in my opinion to a TC. #1's excel across the board.
In the pic you can see I made a harmonic balancer and use it to fine tune my groups. This little device has been on a number of my guns. I start about 3" from the muzzle and move it rearward to find the sweet spot and then beyond that point until it opens up then return to the optimum point. I can then turn a piece the same dimensions and set screw it in place with nylon screws.
This one is a .220 Swift and the balancer doesn't add to the nice lines of the #1, but I group .25" -.35" shooting a 62gr. Seirra HPBT IMR 3031. It shot consistent fliers until I bedded and that went away immediately and grouped at .5 then worked out the sweet spot with the balancer.
Attachment: Ruger .220 Swift 2 12X.jpg (Downloaded 39 times) Last edited on Sat Jan 9th, 2010 07:30 PM by TnTom
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| Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2010 04:06 PM |
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Paul B
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Tom. Interesting gadget. How about more details and a better close up picture. How do you compensate for the barrel's taper? Exactly what do you use to make the compensator? Inquiring minds (mine) want to know more.
Paul B.
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| Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2010 06:42 PM |
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TnTom
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Paul B wrote: Tom. Interesting gadget. How about more details and a better close up picture. How do you compensate for the barrel's taper? Exactly what do you use to make the compensator? Inquiring minds (mine) want to know more.
Paul B.
Last edited on Sun Jan 10th, 2010 07:16 PM by TnTom
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| Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2010 07:14 PM |
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TnTom
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Paul B wrote: Tom. Interesting gadget. How about more details and a better close up picture. How do you compensate for the barrel's taper? Exactly what do you use to make the compensator? Inquiring minds (mine) want to know more.
Paul B.
The material is soft brass and the weight is 422 gr. (slight of an ounce),
O.D. is .910 and the I.D. is .810. The I.D. is about .020 greater than the largest barrel diameter. Its about an inch long.
Taper is simply compensated for with the set screw.
6 set screws are positioned 120 deg. at each end with nylon tips.
I've seen them somewhere commercially but they look much heavier, don't know never bought one. I think weight is less important since its only there to disrupt the harmonic of the barrel. I'm going to see how one made from nylon completely works just havent got to it.
Attachment: 005f.bmp (Downloaded 30 times)
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