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Browning Rifles
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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 01:13 AM
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swampshooter
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Good info, I had trouble swallowing what I was previously told, but do not own a A-bolt. Don't understand why he would say that, if it's not true, unless maybe he just doesn't want to work on them. Some gunsmiths are funny about those things. PS. I believe it's the 710 where the bolt locks into the barrel and the action is a synthetic housing. CHEAP! :rolleyes:



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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 11:46 PM
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kman
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 the barrles are locked down with red lock tite and very hard to remove, must use a propane torch to heat to make it able to come off, the stainless is very hard and my simth said that it is un reasonable to attempt to remove it as the actions are normaly distroyed in the process even using the same process browning uses. just wanted to elaborate on this so no one attempts to remove the barrle and destroy their action

Last edited on Sat Oct 31st, 2009 11:55 PM by kman



 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 12:28 PM
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OldStuffer
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I love my BAR, it's accurate, and a pleasure to shoot. I have shot everything I could stuff in .308 pretty much, from a 100 grain half-jacket plinker load thru 110 gr varmit JHP's from Speer, Hornady varmiters, right up thru 147gr. GI de-linked machine gun ball.
Oh, and that home-rolled 52gr .224JHP sabot round. ;)

It shot everything accurately,and, most of it, the only point of aim variation from round to round, is vertical, very little horizontal if ammo is changed and sights are not.

I never could get a 70-gr. ,224 bullet to stabalize, but, I think it was just too heavy for the sabot to get a good spin on it. Keyholes @ 25 yards, every time, way off center too.

Can't speak to the bolt actions having never owned or shot one.

Many of the rifles, including the BAR's are still made by FN Belgium, or were the last time I checked only a few years ago. Not everything Browning is Japanese.

Yes, it is a shame you don't see, or hear more about them, I'm one of the guys who could have the tattoo. ;)



 Posted: Thu Dec 31st, 2009 03:20 PM
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Irish Bird Dog
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I have some Brownings .......an A-Bolt 30-06, BLR81 7mm-08. BPCR HighWall 45-70 & BLR22 for rifles & a Citori 20ga.....no real problems to complain about with any of them......I like to carry the A-bolt cuz of the wt or lack there of but the shiny stock & metal is like using a signal mirror in the field on sunny days, same finnish on the BLR81.  These 2 shoot well 'nuff for big game hunting. 

The BPCR is used with BP loads & 535gr Postell bullets & shoots as good as I can.  The only complaint I have is that with the Postell's I can only get 55gr of FFg and still close the action, that's with a compressed load.  Others have told me they can get more BP in their's with that bullet......so chambering problem in mine or me?????

BLR22 is a real fun gun to shoot with it's short throw lever and the Citori is just a good gun period and lighter then my Ruger Red Label in 20ga.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 31st, 2009 03:30 PM
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Rockydog
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IBD, Are you pouring that black into the case or using a drop tube? Using a tube can make a big difference in case capacity. RD



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 Posted: Thu Dec 31st, 2009 03:55 PM
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Irish Bird Dog
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RD...I use a 24" drop tube & "drizzle" the BP into the case via funnel mtd to top of tube & then I use a Pre-set compression die for consistent compression of pwoeder & then add an OPwad then handseat the bullet & no crimp.   The thing with the Postell bullet is it has the nose dia smaller than the bullet dia so I don't know what keeps it back with more BP 'cept maybe the way it was chambered.  It is a Badger bbl and they are supposed to be real good.  Shoots fine as I can & most likely better....



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 Posted: Thu Dec 31st, 2009 04:19 PM
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Paul B
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Bird Dog. If thay shiney finish bothers you all that much, I know it did me, carefully rub it down with OOOO steel wool and a light oil. That's what I did with my Browning 1895 and B-78. I still have the BLR to do. Once you have it rubbed out, treating it with a good furniture wax makes it look like a hand rubbed oil finish.

Over the years, I've seen that shiney finish crack along some of the grain lines. If that happens, then I'd just remove the finish and do a proper oil finish and get it done right. Makes for some nice winter projects.

Paul B.



 Posted: Thu Dec 31st, 2009 05:41 PM
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OldStuffer
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Paul B wrote: Bird Dog. If thay shiney finish bothers you all that much, I know it did me, carefully rub it down with OOOO steel wool and a light oil. That's what I did with my Browning 1895 and B-78. I still have the BLR to do. Once you have it rubbed out, treating it with a good furniture wax makes it look like a hand rubbed oil finish.

Over the years, I've seen that shiney finish crack along some of the grain lines. If that happens, then I'd just remove the finish and do a proper oil finish and get it done right. Makes for some nice winter projects.

Paul B.

Did to my Light 12 A-5 20 years or so ago. I much prefer the "hand feel" also of a nice oil finish. So far the BAR isn't showing the cracking varnish, but it will get the same when it does. :cool:



 Posted: Fri Jan 1st, 2010 01:49 AM
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wsmreloader
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I own four brownings..two shotguns..two rifles. a belguim a-5 in 12 gauge and a japan gold fusion in 20 gauge. Both are excellent shotguns. I own a blued abolt in 270 with the boss and it shoots better that I do. If I can hold it on target, it will shoot 3/4" @ 100 yards ANY day. Better most days. I also have a abolt stainless stalker in 270wsm, and it is my firearm of choice to hunt with for deer or elk. It will shoot 1 inch groups @ 100 yards, if I do my part. The best group that I have had with it is 5 shots well under 1/2 inch.. my worst group is... well worse < a little over 2"s@ 100 yards.> . Although I've had no need to use browning's repair service, I expect it to be top notch, if I ever need it. It's been my experience that very few used brownings are in gunshops because most folks who purchase brownings are well pleased with them. That's my 2 cents worth..



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 Posted: Fri Jan 1st, 2010 03:03 AM
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Irish Bird Dog
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thanks for the tip on how to "unshine" the Browning stocks......I'll think on it but I am a bit hesitant to tackle the finish on such a nice rifle for fear of ruining it rather than enhancing it.  I do like the type of finish that my Ruger #1 and Red Label have.....rather nice, subdued, soft looking finish.  



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 Posted: Mon Jan 18th, 2010 03:27 AM
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TLARbb
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I had a BBR Medallion in .270 win. A very nice gun and accurate too, but the chamber was big and it was hard on brass for handloading, so I sold it off. If the chamber had been tighter, it would probably have shot even better than it did.

I have a Remington 700 in .270 now that shoots well, but it is not as pretty as the Browning rifle it replaced.

Last edited on Mon Jan 18th, 2010 03:30 AM by TLARbb



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 Posted: Tue Jan 26th, 2010 02:22 PM
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bunzo351
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I have a Browning High Wall 1885 in .22-250 that I dearly love. It's one of those rifles with a high "fondle factor". . . . you just like to take it out ad fondle it once in a while.

It's a decent shooter and consistently shoots MOA. With a little more work on finding a load, it'll probably get better (I hope). It has a Redfield 6-18x40 scope.

That's a picture of it in my avatar along with a Ruger #1 just to compare them side by side, but heres another picture:





 Posted: Tue Jan 26th, 2010 10:06 PM
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oldvet
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Don't know. The ones I have seen are all beautiful rifles. I have a FN Browning Safari Grade Bolt Action in 7mm Rem Mag, and it is one fine shooter! It shoots better'n I do, at least MOA, with the proper handloads. It's a little on the heavy side, but when pushing a 175 gr Nosler at close to 2,800 fps, it helps tame the recoil!



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 Posted: Thu Feb 4th, 2010 04:07 AM
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oldbikewrench
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Thought I would add that I have a Browning BLR in .358 Winchester. It was made in 1989 with the steel receiver. Got it from one of my best friends. Yes it was made in Japan. But it is a very good rifle.



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