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38 spl case question
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 Posted: Fri Jul 20th, 2007 03:30 PM
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deboog93
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I reload .38spl rounds and am having some problems with my cases and want to get an idea of what is going on.  This only seems to happen to by chrome cases more often then the plain brass.  When I am expanding the mouth it seems that the case is developing a bulge or bump about midway down the case.  So far this has not affected the ability to use the case but it looks bad.  Some of these cases probably have been shot multiple times since this is th caliber I started with in the beginning.

Are these case wore out and this is how you determine their usefulness is up?:confused:

 

Once again thanks for reading and sharing your knowledge.  This board is the best!  



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 Posted: Fri Jul 20th, 2007 04:00 PM
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72coupe
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I think this is common. On my cases the sizer reduces them more than is necessary and when you use the expander it doesn't expand all of the case that has been reduced by the expander leaving a wasp waist appearence. This particularly apparent on 9mm cases.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 20th, 2007 05:32 PM
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charlie-6
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Been reloading 38 sp. for years never had that problem, check you die setting what dies are you useing?



 Posted: Fri Jul 20th, 2007 05:36 PM
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deboog93
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gene

 

I am using RCBD set of dies for .38 spl I have it set to where it only expands the fist 1/4 inch of the case if that much when expanding.  As stated my plain brass cases do not seem to happen when reloading.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 20th, 2007 05:48 PM
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charlie-6
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You may be opening the case mouth too much, take one of your bullets and set your die where the bullet will very start just enough it will start in your brass, you don;t need to over expan the mouth. try that on some your nickle brass is harder.



 Posted: Fri Jul 20th, 2007 09:33 PM
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armoredman
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Do you have any trouble chambering them? That's why I use a Lee FCD last thing, even if it rarely catches a bump in my 38s.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 01:02 AM
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deboog93 wrote:   As stated my plain brass cases do not seem to happen when reloading.



Cartridge cases, bullets or primers which have been electroplated with nickel and which have a characteristic bright silvery appearance, are generally hardened to the point that they don't reload well.  Those nickel/chrome cases are too hard, that is why they spilt, bulge, or whatever.  Brass has the "ability" to work, and is more forgiving.  Nickle cases are pretty, but aren't usually worth the headaches involved in loading them. 

IMHO, toss them and get some brass.....no problems.

 

Scott (brass can be shiny too) B



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 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 05:52 AM
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hoashooter2
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Set your die to size then adjust to bell or expand the mouth and your problems will go away:thumbs:



 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 04:08 PM
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charlie-6
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That's what i already told him.



 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 05:39 AM
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hoashooter2
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gene-your right,had a few and didn't read all the post clearly:beer:



 Posted: Thu Sep 6th, 2007 03:58 PM
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I use nickel cases in leather gunbelts to avoid verdigris, but try not to reload them too much. (Cartridges in the belt are nickel, those in the gun are brass!)



 Posted: Thu Sep 6th, 2007 11:14 PM
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deboog93
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Dirtkicker

 

Only one problem with that .38 is one of my favorites to shoot and these cases have been reloaded multiple times they are about ten years old.  Although there was a break of about 5 years in the middle though.  I figure I see them bend in the scrap pile they go till they are gone.  definitely like the brass one better



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 Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2007 09:12 AM
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wheezengeezer
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your nickel cases might be a bit thicker than the plain ones.38 spl operates at less than 17000 psi.you will get long case life.one thing to help extend their life is to trim and burr cases to make a smooth mouth.it helps prevent cracks.shoot the 38 untill the cases harmlessly split,quite often when sizing.



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 Posted: Wed May 14th, 2008 06:42 PM
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SCSlim
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That's pretty much been my experience with the nickel-plated brass .38 cases. Sometimes the plating flakes off. They seem to form case mouth cracks more frequently than plain brass cases do. Unfortunately, I have a lot of the nickel-plated stuff. It'll be a while until they go away through attrition. In the mean time, I've learned to love the warm glow and workabilty of shiny brass.

Last edited on Wed May 14th, 2008 06:43 PM by SCSlim



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 Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 07:34 PM
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WILDCATT
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I reloaded for target practice and compitition.I use nickle plated and mine are 30 yrs old(more)do you load full charges?also the case tapers inside.and some bullets are on the large side.I cast my own and sized .365.at 50 ft will go in same hole.

try 2.8 gr bullseye or 700 X with 148 gr wc or hbwc.:confused::thumbs:



 Posted: Thu Jun 5th, 2008 05:08 PM
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I had issues with reloads fitting too tight in the chambers on my K38. I bought a Lee carbide factory crimp die #90861. use your existing dies as before but seat the bullet with NO crimp. Mount the Lee die and follow the directions. The carbide sizes and crimps on the down stroke and resizes on the return stroke. No bulges due to crimping. It looks and chambers like a factory round. As for nickel cases the other guys are right, they look cool and clean but they split easily at the mouth. I just tossed a a 100 out because they were pissing me off with the number of defects.



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 Posted: Sun Jul 27th, 2008 12:03 AM
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dirtrooster
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hey Carlo next time some brass makes ya mad throw it my way.  im easy goin as long as not split ill get along with it.

Never saw what yall are talking about here before my first thought was cases need trimming but i think a couple guys are on it with the right answer your flaring the mouth too much.  Ive never had a problem with the nickol casses either though guess ive just been lucky.



 Posted: Mon Jul 28th, 2008 02:45 AM
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Carlo1776
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Hey Dirt

I was looking at some more of the nickel cases after they came out of the tumbler and it looks like they were fatigued from reloading. As for expanding, I'm real carefull to expand only as much as I need to. I use Speer lead HBWC and because they are cylindrical their entire length, you have to take extra care to  line them up for seating.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 13th, 2008 01:35 AM
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dirtrooster
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got to admit carlo ya got me concerned and i inspected all my cases with a little more time than i usually spend and didnt find a problem.  some of my nickel cases ive had for probly over 25 yrs and loaded countless times.  but one thing i do with my 38 loads is they are mostly all mild.



 Posted: Wed Aug 13th, 2008 03:45 AM
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Carlo1776
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dirtrooster wrote: got to admit carlo ya got me concerned and i inspected all my cases with a little more time than i usually spend and didnt find a problem.  some of my nickel cases ive had for probly over 25 yrs and loaded countless times.  but one thing i do with my 38 loads is they are mostly all mild.

Dirt

Can't be too sure about the brass you buy from an unknown source. It's made me more carefull checking more while reloading. As for mild, thats my favorite thing about a nice wheel gun, you can load mouse fart charges that are as acurate as a laser without having to worry about the hammer re-cocking itself. I still love my SIG P226 but I can fire my K38 all day and hit 10 rings till the cows come home.



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