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Any advice for reloading the 9x19?
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FergusonTO35
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 Posted: 13 April 2008 01:21 AM

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Hello friends, I am happy to be a member of this site. I have been loading revolver and rifle rounds for 4 years now and am embarking on my latest challenge, learning to load 9mm cartridges for my Sig Sauer P225. I am planning to use 124 round nose FMJ bullets and a standard (not +P) powder charge. I will measure and trim each case before loading. I will be using the Lee carbide 3 die set. I am particularly wondering about how to go about crimping the rounds. It is my understanding that you adjust the die to iron out the case mouth flare and no more. This will be a new challenge for me and anyone with advice feel free to share. Also, if any one knows where to get some extra magazines for this pistol or has some to sell let me know. Thanks!! 

Charley
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 Posted: 13 April 2008 03:52 AM

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Trim once, if you want, and then don't worry too much about it.  You generally lose cases from an autoloader well before you ever need to trim. The Lee carbide dies for the 9x19 work well. No real need to crimp, when adjusted properly bullet tension on the case neck will hold fine. Just crimp enough to iron out the flair on the case mouth .

It has been the opinion of many that the 9x19 is a somewhat difficult case to load, especially for someone new to autopistol cartridges. I don't see it that way, never had any issues loading it.



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armoredman
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 Posted: 13 April 2008 04:23 PM

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Been doing 9mm for a few years. I use the Lee FCD die, irons out any bumps in the case with that final sizing, and I get no jams anymore from reloads.

http://www.promagindustries.com/sigsauer.asp for mags.

Trimming is really not neccesary. I have yet to trim a single 9mm case.



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tac_driver
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 Posted: 16 April 2008 11:56 AM

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what load data are you using for 124gr fmj and jhp's?? Powder? bullets?

sdb777
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 Posted: 16 April 2008 12:33 PM

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Here's another spot for the mags your looking for: http://www.gunclips.net/

 

Scott (clip or mag...15-30 rounds) B



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armoredman
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 Posted: 16 April 2008 05:52 PM

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tac-driver, the only 124grainers I load are lead I cast myself, wheel weight lead, Lee Alox Lubed, sized .356, best over a charge of 6.4 grains AA#7, set at 1.095 OAL, Lee FCD used. That does quite well. My jacketed loads are 115 grain Remington bulk JHP, best with 8.8grains AA#7 at 1.122 OAL, (Max load, start under and work up!), and with 5.2gr AA#2, at a 1.083 OAL.

   Academic use only, etc.



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SCSlim
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 Posted: 14 May 2008 08:40 PM

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I bow to your wisdom about staying away from +P loads. I've seen some guns worn out prematurely by use of +P loads when the pistol wasn't designed for them. Certain alloy-frame guns are particularly prone to pounding of the slide rails by over-powered loads.

There are always the .357 Sig and .38 Super for those who want a 9mm autoloader that's a barn burner. Besides, 9mm ammo is available (and reloadable) in such a wide range of configurations and power levels that it's hard to exhaust its utility for just about any reasonable use.

Last edited on 14 May 2008 08:41 PM by SCSlim



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evan price
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 Posted: 15 May 2008 10:32 AM

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124 plated or 125 grain hardcast roundnose lead slugs.

Titegroup, 4.4 grains.

Cycles everything well.

I don't bother with a FCD- no need in 9mm unless your chamber is tight or finicky.

For +P I load up the 124 FMJ or HP with 4.7 grains of Titegroup- Snappy, but nice.

unclebob
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 Posted: 28 June 2008 06:21 PM

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I know the reloading manuals say to trim the fist time before reloading but I have never found the need too. I use a LEE FCD die but I only run the stem down just enough to remove the bell. Any more and you start sizing the bullet.



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 Posted: 15 August 2008 05:55 PM

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+2 or 3 on the Lee FCD.  I wouldn't bother trimming.  I would measure 5 cases and determine an average length of your brass.  Then set your calipers to this number and put any which fit the calipers without being too short in a pile.  That is lot #1.  Then repeat for lot #2 and so on.  Any cases over the max length, I toss, but for the true miser, you could trim to one of your lot lengths and throw them in the lot.

Try shooting cast for economy.

Try finding bulk bullets for economy.

 

That is the issue with 9mm.  Even if you get the cases for free, it will be hard to make ammo cheaper than you can buy.

unclebob
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 Posted: 16 August 2008 12:50 AM

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nksmfamjp wrote: That is the issue with 9mm.  Even if you get the cases for free, it will be hard to make ammo cheaper than you can buy.

Sorry, but I reload 9mm ammo for about half of what I can buy factory for. Plus I can taylor my loads. And that is with using VihtaVuori powder, X-treme bullets and Federal primers.



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Sprue
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 Posted: 20 August 2008 05:07 AM

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unclebob wrote: nksmfamjp wrote: That is the issue with 9mm.  Even if you get the cases for free, it will be hard to make ammo cheaper than you can buy.

Sorry, but I reload 9mm ammo for about half of what I can buy factory for. Plus I can taylor my loads. And that is with using VihtaVuori powder, X-treme bullets and Federal primers.


Hi guys,

About the cost of ammo....

My calculator says that my loads, using my cast, costs me 4 cents a round.

Thats based on my powder costing $ 22.00 per lb and primers costing $27.00 per 1k.

That said, thats:
  • 4 cents per round
  • $1.98 per 50 rounds
  • 39.57 per 1k rounds









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 Posted: 9 September 2008 07:27 AM

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nksmfamjp wrote: That is the issue with 9mm.  Even if you get the cases for free, it will be hard to make ammo cheaper than you can buy.


I never trim 9mm. I lose them before I need to trim, and a good taper crimp WITHOUT an FCD does just fine. Lee FCD is a solution in search of a problem. If you have in-spec components and properly adjusted dies you don't need an FCD UNLESS you have a tight Match chamber.

Using bought 125 RN, Wolf primer, range brass and bulk Titegroup I am at $3.30 per box of 50 rounds for my 9mm. Cheapest I find is CCI Blazer for $8 a box. Less than half price!


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