swampshooter
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I would still suspect an ammo related problem. I would suggest you try a box of factory loads before sending it to a gunsmith. I would not suggest that you try to replace the cylinder star and hand yourself as they must be fitted and timed to operate properly. You could also check for a bent crain, which can cause rotation problems. To do this place your finger on the front of the crain and dry fire the revolver double action. A bent crain will cause excessive movement at the junction of the frame and crain. It would be helpful if you had a revolver available in order to compare the two.
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Sport45
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| Location: | Houston, Texas USA |
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KY Hunter wrote: When I got home, I tried to pull off the side plate to better clean the years of accumulation, but as the gun is a 1970-1980 vintage, it didn't easily budge, so I didn't put a lot of pressure on it. I used the spray can "gun scrub" technique.
There's no need to EVER pry on the side plate of a S&W revolver. With the stocks and side plate screws off simply hold the gun in one hand with the side plate up. Strike the grip frame below the side plate with a rubber or wood mallet ( a hammer handle will do) and the side plate will pop up from inertia.
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KY Hunter
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Thanks for the idea - I will give this approach a try.
One area I did find crud build-up is around where the rim of the cases sit in the countersunk cylinders ( chambers). I thought the revolver was clean, but when used a piece of #12 copper wire and put a clean, thin cotton cloth over the tip, I used this to gently scrape off the debris in the counter sunk rims of each chamber.
I can only say this was an eye opener for me to see this much "stuff" coming off into the rag. I really don't quite believe this is the cause of the cylinder not rotating sometimes, but you never know. I am often surprised sometimes by the simplest things I have overlooked or don't believe will make any impact.
I'll let you all know my results during the next trip to the range.
Thanks to everyone for their input.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2009 07:08 AM |
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24th Post |
Sport45
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If you want to get rid of that piece of crap gun let me know and I'll properly dispose of it for you. I'll even take care of the shipping and transfer fee. 
A toothpick should do a good job on those recesses. Make sure they're clean and that there's nothing under the ejector star.
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Proud owner of a Ruger Redhawk, S&W 36, S&W 19-5, Sig 226, Colt 1991a1, Springfield 1911a1, SA XD45ACP, Dan Wesson 15-2, Ruger 22/45, Iver Johnson Target Sealed 8, HRA M1, WOA AR, Arisaka T99, and a few others.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 06:54 PM |
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25th Post |
Rapier
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| Joined: | Mon Oct 29th, 2007 |
| Location: | Destin, Florida USA |
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Next time the wife wants to throw out an old tooth brush, take it to the reloading room or cleaning room. You can scrun more crud with an old tooth brush that you can imagine.
This is a fairly old thred so I went about this without answering until I read all of the posts.
Old Smiths have a weak link in the system, that is the ejector rod itself. The rod is very thin where it screws into the star's shank. My old 19s and 27s would start acting up and I learned to check to see if the rod was bent. Open the cylinder, put the muzzle of the barrel on the table, with a straight edge lined up with the ejector rod spin the cylinder and watch the rod. If the rod wobbles off the line, it is bent. A bent ejector rod will do exactly as you relate. It does not cost anything to check it out.
Best,
Ed
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| Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 07:41 PM |
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KY Hunter
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Thanks for the thought. I'll give it a try next time at the range.
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