| Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 09:47 PM |
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KY Hunter
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I have an older S&W "Highway Patrol" Mod 28 that is in good condition. I have a problem somtimes with the revolver not wanting to rotate when cocking. I first suspected I was not getting the brass sized properly and the rim of the case was sticking out from the cylinder slightly. I am now making sure the cases are fully in the cylinder, yet occasionally still experience a hard to rotate cylinder - even with hand assistance.
I see nothing that causes the cylinder to bind, but can't see the cylinder under the hammer. Makes the gun unreliable.
I would appreciate learning what may be the problem or if other have had this experience and possible solutions. Most likely It is something I am doing as the gun will rotate fine without shells in the cylinders.
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| Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 10:12 PM |
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lynxpilot
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Some of my very first loads (last week) were my 500 S&W and I expanded the casings when I crimped them so they were very hard to get into the cylinder. When I managed to get them in, I experienced the same problem you mentioned. It was only after really jamming them in that I finally got them where they wouldn't interfere with cylinder rotation. Weird thing is after I shot them, they were a piece of cake to get out. Back to the drawing board on the reloader. I might actually try a few rounds tonight.
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| Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 10:36 PM |
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Gutshot
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KY hunter. I have a model 28 also that I bought new in 1975. I had the same problem that you have within the first year of shooting it. maybe 200 rds. I found at the cylinder ejector rod had back out a few turns. I screwed it back in and no problems anymore. I always check this on any revolver that I shot before hand. Good luck.
Gutshot
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| Posted: Sat Jul 4th, 2009 07:48 AM |
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jjb2
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Gutshot wrote: KY hunter. I have a model 28 also that I bought new in 1975. I had the same problem that you have within the first year of shooting it. maybe 200 rds. I found at the cylinder ejector rod had back out a few turns. I screwed it back in and no problems anymore. I always check this on any revolver that I shot before hand. Good luck.
Gutshot
i had that same problem with my model 13... you don't say what your load is but if it's too light it might not be reseating the primer when you fire it and that will tie up your cylinder too..............
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| Posted: Sat Jul 4th, 2009 03:17 PM |
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wheezengeezer
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KY Hunter wrote: I have an older S&W "Highway Patrol" Mod 28 that is in good condition. I have a problem somtimes with the revolver not wanting to rotate when cocking. I first suspected I was not getting the brass sized properly and the rim of the case was sticking out from the cylinder slightly. I am now making sure the cases are fully in the cylinder, yet occasionally still experience a hard to rotate cylinder - even with hand assistance.
I see nothing that causes the cylinder to bind, but can't see the cylinder under the hammer. Makes the gun unreliable.
I would appreciate learning what may be the problem or if other have had this experience and possible solutions. Most likely It is something I am doing as the gun will rotate fine without shells in the cylinders.
as jjb2 mentioned,with a very light load the primers pop out,but the case has insuffecient pressure to slam back over the primer.You could slightly oversize some flash holes in a segregated small batch of cases and try that.I would start with about .080 dia.This is what has to be done for primer only rubber bullet loads for the very same reason.
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| Posted: Tue Jul 14th, 2009 09:39 PM |
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KY Hunter
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This is why I enjoy this website as I do. Most of the time I simply read and review other postings, but having a "real" issue of my own, getting the solid responses I read is great.
I will try, test or check the suggestions and see what works.
Again, thanks for taking the time to help
KY Hunter
Last edited on Tue Jul 14th, 2009 09:39 PM by KY Hunter
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| Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 04:11 AM |
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junebug
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Ky hunter make sure you seat primers all the way as a high primer will tie up a revolver. The next time you have this happen turn the cylender about two turns by hand if necessary then open the cylender . If it is a high primer you should see a gall mark on the high primer .make sure to clean primer pockets and seat fully,hope this helps.
Junebug
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| Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 10:07 PM |
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KY Hunter
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Thanks for the feedback - I have checked for this and all is well. I was at the range recently and even with the cylinder empty, I was getting hard rotations occasionaly.
I am starting to believe it is either the hand or the lugs on the ejector that the hand contacts that rotate the cyl. ??
Stay tuned
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| Posted: Tue Aug 11th, 2009 02:17 AM |
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BeaverJack
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My money's on high primers or over-crimp.
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| Posted: Tue Aug 11th, 2009 06:20 PM |
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DesertMarine
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I have a Model 28 that I got in 73. I had a similar problem when I was using it for competition. I was using 38 wadcutters and after a while had a build up above the cylinder which would cause problems. Took me a while to figure it out but once cleaned up, no problems.
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| Posted: Wed Aug 12th, 2009 05:16 PM |
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Paul B
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 Well, my first thought was a loose ejector rod, but that would havecompletely tied the gun up after a few rounds as it worked out. I used a drop of Loctite to fix that problem in a K-22 I once had.
It sure would make it a lot easier if I had the gun in hand. Someone mentioned build up on the front of the cylinder and that is a possiblity, especially when the gun still does it while empty.
I'm wondering if this happens at one particular chamber or is it at random? You might give this a try. Using an EMPTY case, chamber it in one of the chambers and place it under the barrel. This is so you can use it as a reference point. Cock the gun. Was it sticky there? Then do it again. was it sticky there? Keep doing it, noting at which point or points where the gun hangs up. Check the gap between the cylinder and the barrel at each hang up point. If you see light at all the points, then take a close look and the gap between the crane and the receiver/frame of the gun. If the line is totally even all the way, that's good. If not the crane, or yoke if you prefer might be bent and that ain't good. That would mean a trip back to S&W and the expenditure of some cold hard cash. 
If it's not the crane, and I'm hoping it's not and is just lead build up on the front of the cyliber and face of the barrel, then removal of the build up should cure the problem.
However, if this occurs on all chambers, either on every cocking of the gun or on an intermittant basis, then we're gonna have to look at the possibility of replacing some internal parts due to wear from long time use. Then, I would be looking at the projections at the rear of the cylinder than the hand works upon to turn the cylinder and the face of the hand as well for abnormal wear.
I dunno how much help this was, but maybe it'll give you an answer.
Paul B.
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| Posted: Wed Aug 12th, 2009 05:33 PM |
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swampshooter
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Are you sure that no one has tried to do an amatuer action job on this revolver. The hand could be binding or the star could be damaged. If all else fails I would suggest an examination of these parts.
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| Posted: Wed Aug 12th, 2009 05:52 PM |
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Gutshot
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Also check for debris under the star ejector.
Gutshot
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| Posted: Wed Aug 12th, 2009 08:43 PM |
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ghrit
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Also, check that the cylinder lock is retracting, might be gunk under it in the frame.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 13th, 2009 01:09 AM |
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miestro_jerry
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When all esle fails, Smith and Wesson does have a life time warranty on their products.
Back in the 70s, I send a M59 that I bought at a gun show to them, was prepared to pay for the work. It came back to my FFL completely rebuilt to orginal spec, and refinished.
My L Frame and my PD both have lifetime warranties, so them must have done this for years.
Plus once in a blue moon, S & W sends out gun smiths from their factory to some gun stores. Good place for answers, just make sure your pistol is very clean.
Jerry
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| Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 03:45 PM |
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KY Hunter
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All good thoughts.
Here is what I currently know after cleaning and checking further.
When at the range, even with the cylinder empty, I did notice the gun would not freely rotate the cylinder at times when cocked. I watched it further to see if a particular repeatable location could be detected. I do believe this was the situation, but with nothing to mark the cylinder easily, I could be mistaken.
When I got home, I tried to pull off the side plate to better clean the years of accumulation, but as the gun is a 1970-1980 vintage, it didn't easily budge, so I didn't put a lot of pressure on it. I used the spray can "gun scrub" technique.
I also cleaned the cylinder, the crane, forcing cone and all the areas around the ejector star. Once that was done, I oiled the parts including the hand, and cocked the gun over and over. It didn't seem to hang up as before, but I still and suspicious.
I will be testing the revolver again in the next couple of weeks and will try to make additional observations. I did contact S&W and they indicated I could send the gun back - but I believe there will be a charge, as the person I spoke with said they would contact me with an estimate for repairs. I don't guess this model 28 has a lifetime gurantee or the lifetime us over?
Again, thanks for the fine thoughs and comments and I will post my next results.
Max
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| Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2009 05:46 PM |
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fprefect
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KY Hunter wrote: I have an older S&W "Highway Patrol" Mod 28 that is in good condition. I have a problem somtimes with the revolver not wanting to rotate when cocking. I first suspected I was not getting the brass sized properly and the rim of the case was sticking out from the cylinder slightly. I am now making sure the cases are fully in the cylinder, yet occasionally still experience a hard to rotate cylinder - even with hand assistance.
I see nothing that causes the cylinder to bind, but can't see the cylinder under the hammer. Makes the gun unreliable.
I would appreciate learning what may be the problem or if other have had this experience and possible solutions. Most likely It is something I am doing as the gun will rotate fine without shells in the cylinders.
Since it will rotate will no ammunition in the cylinder, that could be a place to look. If it is occurring when you still have loaded ammo in any of the chambers, there is a possibility if you are firing loads that produce some significant recoil and the bullets in the unfired rounds are not crimped properly, one of the bullets could have worked it's way slightly forward out of case and now is possibly catching on the forcing cone when you try to rotate the cylinder for the next shot.
One would think that recoil would cause the bullet to work itself further IN to the case, but with the right amount of tension between the bullet and case, I have seen them move forward. The next time you fire a round, check to be sure that one or more of the bullets could have moved forward. If so, a tighter crimp should solve the problem.
F. Prefect
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| Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2009 08:32 PM |
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swampshooter
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Bullets that work loose from recoil move forward and will lock up a revolver, but normally this occurs more frequently in calibers larger than .357. I've had it occur with a .44 mag, but have not experienced it with a .357, that's not saying that it isn't occurring in someone else's .357.
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OldManMontgomery
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If it's hanging up with no ammo at all, check the extractor rod and make sure it's all the way down - left hand thread.
Then make sure under the extractor on the rear face of the cylinder is clean. One single grain of burnt powder will jam up the works.
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KY Hunter
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Thanks for the thoughts of all involved. I have checked and rechecked for bullet pull during and after firing and no cartridges exhibit this problem that I can see.
I have also checked to see that the ejector fully retracts into the end of the cylinder as it should. This too appears to be correct.
The gun has been cleaned several times in and around the cylinder, ejector and the frame.
I am starting to believe the ejector star lugs or the hand that moves the ejector star's lugs, one of these parts are worn just enough to intermittently cause this problem.
If I wanted to replace the just ejector star at this point, where the lugs are pushed by the hand, what is involved or how do you go about changing this part?
All - Thanks for your input
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