| Posted: Sat Aug 1st, 2009 09:52 PM |
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aap2
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I just bought an older NIB S&W model 66-1 Combat Magnum in stainless steel with a 6" barrel. I'm going to be shooting mainly target loads in it and I would like to use the longer .357 mag cases rather than the shorter .38 specials to avoid the chamber ring than can (at least theoretically) form ahead of the shorter cases if many thousands of rounds are fired, thus preventing extraction of the .357 mag cases if I ever use them. I had this problem witha Ruger single action .357 that I fired countless .38's in for 30 years; then the .357 cases didn't extract easily. Anyway, most of the target loads seem to be listed for the .38 special case. I'm thinking of using Hornady swaged lead 148gr HBWC or 158gr SWC bullets; anyone have a liting for target loads for these bullets in the .357 case? I have large quantities of Unique, WW231, Red Dot and can get Bullseye. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 2nd, 2009 01:54 AM |
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capbuster
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I have had great results using a 150 grain cast bullet(RCBS mould) over 3.4 grains of WW231 powder in 357 magnum cases. I use a Redding profile crimp die to give the case a slight crimp. This combination works well in my Smith & Wesson revolvers.
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Cliff
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| Posted: Sun Aug 2nd, 2009 02:12 AM |
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aap2
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Thanks Cliff; I have Redding dies and a large quantity of Hornady HBWC 148 grain bullets as well as 4 lbs of WW213 and Red Dot. I was wondering if the load tha you are using with the cast 150gr bullet and 3.4 grains of WW231 would be o.k. for the 148 grain Hornady HBWC? It's hard to find any .357 loads listed fo rthe 148gr HBWC.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 2nd, 2009 02:42 AM |
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capbuster
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You should be ok since there is only a 2 grain difference in bullet weight. I use the same bullet in my 38 specials with a 3.1grain charge of WW231. I picked up the 38 special load from an old Guns & Ammo article by Jay Liborel. The 357 load was a lucky attempt to start using 357 magnum cases in my magnum revolvers as suggested by a fellow shooter and reloader.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 2nd, 2009 03:07 AM |
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Gnarly
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Would like to help  but can't.
Mine only gets Hornady 140 gr XTP-HP's w/ 19.0 gr of W296 powder because  otherwise,they'll embarass me.
Strongly agree w/ sticking to .357 Mag loads in a .357.
----Gnarly 
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~*~ Pray for Peace but reload more ammo ~*~
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| Posted: Sun Aug 2nd, 2009 04:35 AM |
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aap2
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thanks
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| Posted: Sun Aug 2nd, 2009 01:00 PM |
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Dirtkicker
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You should be fine with that load. Just don't hotten it too much or you'll blow through those HBWCs and leave a lead sleeve in the bbl.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 2nd, 2009 01:12 PM |
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saddlesore
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I have a 686 -6" and I use 4.5 gr of Universl Clays or W231 in a .357 case wity 158 gr cast. It is extremely accurate,and low recoil.I have probably ran in excess of 10,000 rounds with this load downrange.Both in plinking,practice, and competition. I'd be leary with loads in the 3 gr range as it might give eratic ignition depending on whether powder is up or down in the case. I do load 3.5 grs in my wife's Lady Smith for her in 38 special
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| Posted: Sun Aug 2nd, 2009 01:46 PM |
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capbuster
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You might do a search for the reloading pages of M.D.Smith. I noticed he has several loads listed for the 148grain wadcutter bullet in .357 magnum cases. Take care.
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JSD
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Greetings...I noticed your S&W 66 question regarding loads...I just recently acquired a 66 as well. In trying to pick out reloading gear I came across several threads regarding high velocity 'mushrooming' in the 'forcing cone' which can crack the 'flat' bottom of the cone on the 66. Flatness is 'supposedly' for ejector rod clearance. It seems kind of stupid to me leaving a potential weak spot in such a critical area. Then again, some people fire 1000's of rounds with no problems.
'Supposedly' if you use less than 158gr bullets, the velocity increases and can crack your cone.
You may want to Google this yourself.
I'm new at the reloading game but anything that 'could' render the pistol useless is something I would be/and am VERY WARY of.
I'm definitely going to be doing my research before loading for the 66 and I don't plan on firing sub 158's in it.
Good luck to you, wish me luck as well!
Jay
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aap2
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Thanks; I have never heard of this. I wonder if it is a significant problem with the 66?
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aap2
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Thanks for all of the load info; I loaded batches of several different loads to test; first I tried the Hornady 148gr HBWC over 3gr Red Dot for approx 750 FPS which is what I wanted for a target load. This load was accurate and clean burning; the only drawback is that such a small powder charge leaves lots of empty space in the case and double charges are possible. My second load was a cast 158gr SWC plain bevel base bullet over 4.2 grains of TrailBoss for 865 FPS. This load is also accurate and clean burning and the TrailBoss is bulky; a double charge would overflow the case. Murphy;s Law is in full force on my loading bench, so such insurance is welcome. Thanks for all of the replies.
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JSD
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http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=5155832
'Potential' crack issue seems due to extreme high power/velocity rounds with older models?
The other empirical fact that supports the above scenario is the total LACK of fractured K frame .357s showing up in gunsmith hands these days. It just doesn't happen. Occasionally, an old gun gets dug out of a drawer and sold with problems, but it's from the '70s, not a new issue. No one has been able to credibly report a "new" incident of K frame cracking since the mid 80s.
I have the 66-3, you have the 66-1, do you want to risk it? Personally I gravitate towards caution with firearms, plus my OCD tendencies have me trying to keep things in the best possible condition I can. :)
Then again, the alloy compositions could have been improved and the flat spot on the cone 'may not' be an issue.
I remember a 'friend' of mine, he shot his 19 with a few hundred hot loads, then came home and hosed the entire gun (inside and out) with WD40 (showing me how someone else taught him to clean a gun). Oh my goodness! What a way to clean your gun! I hated firing that gun, my hand stank of WD40 afterward. Getting WD40 stink off your hands isn't fun, almost as bad as Hoppes....anyway, 'stink' aside, to my knowledge that gun is still going strong, though it's probably a little loose after all the abuse. BTW, I have no idea if giving your gun a WD40 bath is good or bad but I think I'll pass. :)
Here's another page I just found, this actually has my model on it. It's soooo pretty! The only thing that is kinda cheesy is the more I read up on the 66's, the more I hear about it not being a gun that will last forever if used regularly with full loads. I have yet to find out personally.
http://www.defensivecarry.com/vbulletin/defensive-carry-guns/70905-s-w-model-66-2-snub-first-shots.html
I'm planning to use a x-bow/compound for hunting deer with the 66 as a light weight backup in case I need a mediator along for potential arguments with grizzlies or pumas. I figure if a grizzly can take a full cylinder worth of 'in your face mediation'...well let's just say it deserves a good home cooked meal afterwards for the trouble...then again...I doubt it's going to have much left of it's face to chew with. :)
Yes I thought about an Alaskan or maybe a 44 but alas I already have the 66 and it is small and light, probably be lighter if I filed the front sight off as well. ;)
One final bit of advice 'with guns'...everyone is an expert, including myself...*grins*...triple check everything, then triple check again. I've seen some really flaky advice in the forums being given out by 20-30 different people who swore up and down that 'this was the way', then one 'truly intelligent' individual (who actually knows what he's talking about) comes along and serves them up a nice freshly baked crow pot pie with some nice white wine on the side.
Jay
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JSD
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Just found a photo...not pretty. Let's hope we never have to experience this first hand.
http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/blog.php?b=34
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aap2
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I appreciate the info and the articles; very interesting. I doubt that my target loads will hurt the gun much. I always assumed that if I cracked my cone that it would be from riding my Harley. Thanks again.
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Draciron
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With the lead bullets Alliant 2400 will give you all the oompth the bullet can take with lots to spare. Burns pretty clean and takes up lots of space in the case so double charges are not a risk.
With 158 gn swc 14.2 with magnum primers and 16.7 w/standard primers has worked well for me. Anything more tends to lead the barrel up.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2009 07:51 PM |
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bnitch
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I've been making some nice 357 light loads with Trail Boss, and 158gr plated bullets. Feels like you are shooting a 38 and takes up a lot of space in the brass, be hard to double charge. I have a 66-5, 4" that I shoot them out of
Last edited on Sat Aug 29th, 2009 07:54 PM by bnitch
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KY Hunter
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I have shot 357 Mag cartridges with reduced or "Cowboy" loads for years with 158 SWC lead bullets. I got the loads from Hodgen looking at the "Cowboy" load section. Other also have references for 800-1000 fps loads in the larger case, but at 38 sp speeds.
Good luck.
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pmeisel
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I have had good luck with 158g and Unique -- 4.5 grains for a light load and 5.5 for a "working" load, e.g. a little more oomph but not max.
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KY Hunter
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I wanted to shoot the same low recoil rounds in my Smith mod 28. What I have done for years with good success is use Unique ( and Tightgroup because it is a little less dirty) and shoot Cowboy loads.
I load my 357 mag cases using Unique to Cowboy velocities. No problems with this at all. I use Hornaday 158 grain SWC - which are relatively hard and get no leading.
Just keep the FPS below 950 and you should be good to go. Many bools will list Cowboy loads these days.
hope this helps.
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