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Reloading .40 S&W
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resqdan
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 Posted: 5 April 2008 02:53 AM

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I was out to the range yesterday and got to visiting with an old salty reloader.  He says he reloads for alot of different calibers and was very knowledgable about the whole process.  Any way he said that he had a problem when he was reloading the 40 S&W, the problem was that the case would seperate from base, so the rest of the case would stay in the camber and all that would be ejected was the end of the case.

He stated that he had only experianced it with the 40, but thought it had to do with the faster burning powders, which he has stopped using for the 40, although for all his other handguns he uses the fast stuff

I guess my question is has anyone had this problem.

I am going to start reloading this caliber so any advise would be great, some loads you may use, powders and such..

thanks



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Charley
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 Posted: 5 April 2008 04:04 AM

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I don't load for the .40 S&W, so my answer might be 180 degrees off, but here goes...

Some handguns in .40 S&W, like Glocks, have the case partially supported on firing, often causing it to bulge at the web of the case. I would guess continued sizing and firing would lead to fatigue, and eventual failure as he noted. I've seen a tool for sale that supposedly rolls the case back into the proper dimension, rather than just squeezing it back as in resizing, just for this reason.

I can't see any reasonable pressure curve causing case head seperation, and doubt burn rate has much to do with it.

Any .40 S&W loaders can tell me I'm so full of it I slosh anytime now!



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wheezengeezer
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 Posted: 6 April 2008 04:34 PM

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QUOTE "He stated that he had only experianced it with the 40, but thought it had to do with the faster burning powders, which he has stopped using for the 40, although for all his other handguns he uses the fast stuff"UNQUOTE      the reloader was probbally correct to a point on this one.his fast powder loads were most likely the highest pressure as well. have to go with charley on this,any time/pressure curve that is within pressure spec should be safe.but this would be with a properly supported case. i dont shoot glocks but i have heard of problems with the 40 and factory ammo in them.do they push the line between case support and pressure?



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Encoreman
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 Posted: 26 April 2008 03:11 AM

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I load the .40 have always used Bullseye and never had a problem like you describe. I have never used new brass, I pick out the ones shot in a Glock as the guppy belly them. I have probably loaded and shot 10K +

Timberghozt
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 Posted: 26 April 2008 08:18 PM

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III load for 40 Smith in a Sig P229....I use Power Pistol powder and Hornady JHPs...I start with new Win brass and run it through my carbide dies...Honestly I don`t understand why he is having a problem with it...If he is seperating cases that tends to tell me he has a more serious issue than a slight headspace issue...
Can you ask him what load data,powder type,the weight of charge he is using and the bullet weight...I am curious about it..:wink:



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Rickster
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 Posted: 30 April 2008 06:05 PM

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Charley hit the nail on the head. 40's which have chambers which do not fully support the case head can result in nasty failures. They even have a word for it... "Kaboom" results from a blown case head venting hot gasses and detonating the remaining rounds in the magazine.  Although Glocks are fine pistols they are infamous for this problem because their chambers leave a substanital amount of the cartridge case unsupported. A friend of mine who purchases ammo for his police department totally gave up on commercial quality reloads after kabooms detroyed 2 or 3 of his departments glocks. One can usually find unsupported chambers at the top of the feed ramp where to much metal has been removed to facilitate feeding. Many of todays 40 semi autos share this problem. I think we hear about a lot more kabooms with glocks simply because there are so many glocks out  there.  One of the reasons I purchased an FN 40 pistol for my own use was because of the fully supported chamber. If you plan on shooting reloads, especially full power reloads, I suggest you purchase a pistol of similar construction.



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panman
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 Posted: 11 September 2008 05:45 PM

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If your shooting a Glock then get a Lone wolfe barrel from cheaper than dirt.Glocks are not suported fully as been stated.The barrels from LW are very well made,and,as a extra,you can shoot lead.I have been shooting lead and factory for some time and its very accerate and safe.Pan.

Doug
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 Posted: 17 September 2008 05:00 AM

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I loaded for a glock 23 but never had that problem, but I prefer slower powders as a safety matter against double or overloads. I just like case filling loads, but with the .40 you get into compressed loads. It's not a cartridge that takes well to being pushed to it's limits.

panman
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 Posted: 17 September 2008 01:05 PM

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What kind of powders are you using Doug?.Im still expermenting-trying diferent powders.I shoot mostly 155Gr bullets,jacketed,or,lead.I like to keep my rounds around 1,000-1,150FPS,or so.I find that with my extended barrell the bullets perform very well,with no signs of pressure at all.What i look for is a powder that is relitive clean burning,and gives me the performance i want.Any help is very welcome,not only by you but anyone else that wants to chime in.Thanks,pan. :thumbs:

Doug
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 Posted: 19 September 2008 04:30 AM

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Panman:

I used AA#9 for 180 gr. bullets and AA#7 for 155's. The #9 will get you compressed loads but not bad. Do not use Starline Brass, real crap for that round and spits on the mouth with a few loads. I never load anything very hot. I got a couple of .40's to fill in for the 10mm I got rid of. The .40 is a great protection weapon, but not so good for less than professional loaders like me. I currently do not own a .40. Still have lots of brass and bullets if I pick up another. I'm kinda fond of revolvers.

Doug

panman
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 Posted: 20 September 2008 01:20 PM

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Thanks for the info,Doug:thumbs:.Anyone else whant to chip in?.All are welcome.pan.


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