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 Posted: Sat Sep 26th, 2009 01:59 AM
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Dragon88
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I picked up a Taurus Ultra-lite today in 38 Special. I've wanted to get a revolver for some time, and this was $250 used with a IWB holster. Seemed like a good deal so I went for it. I can't tell the previous owner even fired it, it looks almost brand new.



Unfortunately I had to get a box of factory ammo as I'm not set up to reload 38. In fact I'm new to revolver cartridge reloading. 38 special uses a roll crimp? Also, what is this on the brass?



Looks like it is just behind the bullet, maybe to keep it from setting back? Does it affect the brass at all, or the reloading process? I'm sure it will work itself out in resizing, but will I need to keep that mark in mind for bullet seating depth?

Any other useful tips are welcome. Thanks. :thumbs:



 Posted: Sat Sep 26th, 2009 02:34 AM
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Dragon88 wrote: I picked up a Taurus Ultra-lite today in 38 Special. I've wanted to get a revolver for some time, and this was $250 used with a IWB holster. Seemed like a good deal so I went for it. I can't tell the previous owner even fired it, it looks almost brand new.



Unfortunately I had to get a box of factory ammo as I'm not set up to reload 38. In fact I'm new to revolver cartridge reloading. 38 special uses a roll crimp? Also, what is this on the brass?



Looks like it is just behind the bullet, maybe to keep it from setting back? Does it affect the brass at all, or the reloading process? I'm sure it will work itself out in resizing, but will I need to keep that mark in mind for bullet seating depth?

Any other useful tips are welcome. Thanks. :thumbs:


Dragon, nice looking revolver!!!

A mild roll or taper crimp is all that's needed on a .38Spl.. Not enough to deform the case or bullet... The "ring" around the case is called a cannelure. Originally it was intended to keep the bullet from receding into the case, but nowadays some ammo companies use it , and some don't. It wont weaken the case of a .38, so there's nothing to worry about when shooting or resizing.
Actually, the cannelure works for bullet seating depth only generally. Different weights and types of bullets will have different seating depths.
Have good time with your new toy!!:thumbs:

Last edited on Sat Sep 26th, 2009 02:38 AM by 3006 user



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 Posted: Sat Sep 26th, 2009 03:48 AM
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Dragon88
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Ah good, I was worried it would weaken the brass. I've read .38 special has quite a long reload life. Are there any special considerations for cleaning after firing lead bullets as opposed to jacketed? Also, what's generally considered the best self defense load for this caliber? Looks about comparable to 9mm, but I might consider it as a backup gun after firing it some.

Thanks.



 Posted: Sat Sep 26th, 2009 05:05 AM
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Dragon88 wrote: Ah good, I was worried it would weaken the brass. I've read .38 special has quite a long reload life. Are there any special considerations for cleaning after firing lead bullets as opposed to jacketed? Also, what's generally considered the best self defense load for this caliber? Looks about comparable to 9mm, but I might consider it as a backup gun after firing it some.

Thanks.


Dragon, you'll get a lot of opinions about cleaning after firing lead bullets. The method that I use is a copper bristle brush using Hoppe's #9 solvent. The amount of residue in the barrel determines how many times you run the brush and solvent through the bbl. After you are satisfied that it is lead free, run dry patches through until they come out with very little discoloration. Run a lightly oiled patch through, then a dry one. use the same procedure for the cylinder..

The .38Spl is roughly comparable to a 9mm, but you can use heavier bullets in a .38.

Defense loads - that's another whole bag of worms... Some folks recommend factory loads only, to try to prevent nasty lawsuits.. Some use the bullet of their choice.

You might check with some of our previous posts on the subject...:thumbs:



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 Posted: Sat Sep 26th, 2009 01:03 PM
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I have loaded a bunch of .38 spl.  I have found that Redding's Profile Crimp gives the best accuracy.  Also LRN, LRNFPs gave better accuracy then my LSWC.  LHBWCs worked well for my wife and were devastating loaded upside down.  Accuracy improved once again, after trimming the cases to the same length.  Flash hole uniformity did not shrink my groups as much.  The powders that worked best for me were; Win 231, International Clays (Hodgdon's only load for .38spl and this powder is with 158gr lead bullets.  A Cowboy Action load.), Universal Clays and Clays.

Last edited on Sat Sep 26th, 2009 01:06 PM by Harvey57



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 Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 04:01 AM
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Well I'm cranking out my first batch of 38 reloads tonight. Only bullet I could get today was a 125 gr LFP, I'm putting it over 4 grains of Bullseye. These rounds go together very nicely, the bullet seats like butter with the lube on the lead. I normally seat and crimp separately, but these come out perfect doing it in one shot.

I've read that lead bullets should be kept under 1000 fps to avoid leading of the barrel. Sound about right? How *low* can you go with lead bullets for light target loads?

Last edited on Sun Sep 27th, 2009 04:09 AM by Dragon88



 Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 07:31 AM
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Sounds good to me! As to velocity, 1300 FPS may be OK with proper bullet diameter, lube, and hardness of the bullets.  700 FPS is not unheard of for plinkers and target rounds.  Drop your bullet into the cylender.  Dose the slug fall threw or dose it get stuck in cylender? The ones that fall threw are to small. Get the next size up; .357, .358, .359 etc.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 02:34 PM
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lite weight revolvers are known to kick viciously with heavy loads,most places caution against +p loads in alloy framed 38's ( and not entirely because of recoil) but to keep the thing from stretching and cracking ,if it didnt come with an owner's manual ( if i have the rite model )

http://www.taurususa.com/pdf/revolver_manual.pdf

taurus says their steel ultra lite was designed around +p as for loading ....wow the choices are so many from super mild to super wild ,most who shoot it at paper use fairly lite loads ( me too -it's the round i usually start beginners on )sadly i have to agree about the factory loads for self defense even if we can tailor umm better ammo in tune for our particular firearm ,the 38 is especially easy to reload for ( unless one is reloading for a s&w auto-they can be a lil finicky )heck u can even load it with black powder( just make sure the case is full) umm how low ya wanna go ? lyman list the 90 grain #356242 in lino @ velocities from 675 to a shade over 1200 and my fav 38 cal boolit ( 170 gr. #358429 )from 549 fps to 900 fps ,while accurate and effective the need for more power spawned the 357 ( and the 357 maximum ) like harvey said the 148 hollow base wadcutter is fairly nasty when turned backwards ( big nasty lookin hollow point lolz )have fun amigo !



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 12:30 AM
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Dragon88
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Blackpowder sounds interesting, though I'm not sure I want to gum up my new revolver. My reading shows the load is 20 gr volume triple seven 2F for 125 gr bullet. Can I use pyrodex? Standard or magnum SP primer?

I had a great time shooting the Taurus today. Revolver shooting was a nice change of pace from autos. Cocking for an aimed shot made me take more time with each one, kind of like closing a bolt on a rifle as opposed to autoloader. I even enjoyed the smoke and sharp recoil, something different.

A manual I was reading today said twice in very strong wording not to use +P or even max standard charges in lightweights. Interesting, since Taurus says it's rated for +P. I wonder if it's a recoil thing or if can really damage the firearm.



 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 01:11 AM
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alot of really nice old lite weights were damaged thru the use of +p and/or hot loads,if a reloading manual was to ok the +p and there was a problem ..well lawyers and others tend to get involved ....i wouldnt mind puttin a few titanium ones thru the paces just for personal knowledge lolz
u can use pyrodex,black ( which wouldnt really gum it up just dirty it a bit -they use it for bprc and cowboy shoots alla time ) usually a standard pistol primer ,i'd be more tempted to try a mag with any black substitute-nothin quite fires like the original black ,alot of the older lyman's ( as well as other's like speer etc ) used to list round ball loads for alot of cartridges ,lyman still does i know albiet fewer ones all the time hodgdon has cowboy action data on it's website ,as a positive thing they limit velocity in the shoots so they dont really beat ya up ..of course they dont use new lookin snub noses either lolz the biggest thing is with black and subs is no air space -even if it means fillers,triple 7 also states no heavily compacted loads

edit for .. + p not =p lolz



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 02:40 AM
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I shoot a S&W 340 PD, this is my concealed carry pistol.

When I carry, I use factory ammo, Hydra Shok 129gr 38 +P. Check with your lawyer and your insurance about whether you should carry reloads or factory.

Then practice shooting a target at 5', 10', 15' and 20'. With one hand gripa, two hand grips, then lay your pistol across your chest and shoot. Use 2 and 3 shot volleys.

Figure out, how you are going to get over hesitating after the first shot or the other extreme emptying your pistol. Close quarters and a giant andrenlin rush make you act differently than at the range. One of my friends suggested running a 1/4 mile sprint and then do these exercises, haven't tried that yet.

But you need to practice 2 or 3 times a month.

Jerry



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 02:41 AM
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Sorry, I forgot to mention, that is a really nice pistol and got a good deal on it.

Jerry

 



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 05:03 AM
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Dragon88
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miestro_jerry wrote: One of my friends suggested running a 1/4 mile sprint and then do these exercises, haven't tried that yet.

But you need to practice 2 or 3 times a month.

Jerry

Jerry we did one of these stress shoots for a CQB class in Iraq. 100m sprint in kit followed by walking and shooting, forward, laterally and diagonally with M4. 90 shots with zero flyers to pass. It was great fun and really builds a lot of confidence in your shooting. A few of us tried it with pistol afterwards, little difficult but also a lot of fun.

Have you done any penetration tests on that Hydra shok? Might pick up a box. I keep factory only in my self defense guns. It's too bad, my custom loads are more reliable and harder hitting in my guns but I just can't risk the liability if I need to take that shot one day.

Thanks all for the comments, I'm going to give blackpowder a try. :thumbs:



 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:00 AM
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miestro_jerry
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O.K. They Hydra Shoks will hurt some one badly even in Threat level 2A body armor, which is light police armor. Most of the bullet will go thru a couple of layers, but it won't go thru the armor.

As far as the 2 liter pop bottle test, it does a lot of damage. Ground hogs it rips the tissue up badly. The three times I hit the G' Hog, there was secondary materials coming out of the wound. Mostly bones and destroyed organs.

Way back when I was in the Army, near the end of my 8 year career, we did the Patton Run, 6 miles run with Combat Pack and then fired pistols and rifles. That was a female dog of a task.

Jerry

 

 



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:30 AM
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Wow, Patton Run, I've never done something like that. They don't even want us running in boots anymore. Might try to get that approved for the Training calendar...

Wonder what kind of velocity you get out of the compact. Were you able to tell if the bullet expanded at all? Of course, seems like it got the job done either way.



 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 04:00 PM
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I got about 840 FPS at the muzzle and the Hudra Skok turn into .55 diameter, but I could only measure one, the others hit bones and had a couple places where the bullet had broken up.

Jerry



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 Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 02:36 AM
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Dragon88
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Back to the cases with the cannelure. I loaded these up with HBWCs seated flush and 2.7gr Bullseye. Very nice shooting load. When I examined the fired cases, however, I noticed small slivers of lead had shaved off the bullet at the cannelure inside some of the cases. I wonder if this might affect leading of the barrel or accuracy.

Last edited on Thu Oct 15th, 2009 02:36 AM by Dragon88



 Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 02:49 AM
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fryboy
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hmmmm i'm gathering they were soft lead wad cutters? how'd the bore look ? ( i like the hollow based turned backwards ermm i mean i dont turn the hollow point towards the case lolz ) in reality it's been so long since i used those , i prefer the double ended wad cutters,it's often a round i use for both casting and loading instructions for newbies and well ya just cant turn one the wrong way lolz,it's also possible u didnt get enough bell,the proof would be in the bore and the target ,should be no problem to get 25 out of 25 with that load ,how'd ya do ?



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 Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 02:53 AM
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miestro_jerry
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The urban legend concerning turning a HBWC upside down is just that. At close range it will work, sort of.

I like the factory stuff because of possible liability issues. The police recently paid some perp over a million because he was shot and paralyzed. I don't want to tempt fate.

Jerry



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 Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 01:38 PM
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Dragon88
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These are Hornady bullets and they were seated correctly. It could have happened on firing or seating, but more bell wouldn't help because the cannelure is down inside the case. Accuracy was good, leading I'd have to fire more to know. I'll probably use these just for hard cast 125gr FPs from now or or retire them, it's only 50 pieces.

I wouldn't want to explain to a jury why I made a round with the bullet seated upside down for more lethality and then shot someone with it. $24 box of premium factory is much cheaper.

Last edited on Thu Oct 15th, 2009 01:40 PM by Dragon88



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