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How to Load Straight-Wall Pistol and Rifle Ammunition
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 Posted: Thu Feb 2nd, 2017 12:28 AM
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olyeller
Master Handloader


Joined: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009
Location: Just West Of Bruzdenbleedin, Texas USA
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Favorite type of cartridge to load?: rifle
My favorite chambering is:: 270Win ...
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Reloading Handgun Cartridges

The mechanical steps of reloading are actually simple. Nonetheless, there are several necessary considerations to be given to each step. The observance of these considerations will help ensure that the ammo you assemble will be safe, will function reliably, and be accurate. Several of these considerations are covered in detail in various Manuals and other publications and are beyond the general scope of this basic instruction, and the handloader is encouraged to increase his knowledge continually. This basic information contained herein is vital and should be read and understood before beginning to assemble ammunition.
 
The following material describes the actual steps involved in reloading fired handgun and rifle cartridges with straight-wall cases. The information given applies equally to lead or jacketed bullets. Slight deviations from these steps are sometimes required. Such minor step changes are discussed as appropriate.
 
To reload a fired straight-wall case cartridge, 13 basic operations must be performed. The sequence of these can vary slightly depending on the specific equipment employed and handloader preference. The sequence may very well change based on the specific tools used by the handloader. This is the basic method most often favored by knowledgeable handloaders. Not every step is always required as will be indicated as necessary.
 
The thirteen steps to reload handgun ammo are as follows:
1. Selection of load and components to be used.
2. Case inspection.
3. Case cleaning (omitted when using new unfired cases).
4. Case lubrication (not required when using a carbide sizing die).
5. Case resizing and fired primer removal.
6. Lubricant removal (not required when using a carbide sizing die) and second inspection.
7. Case length measuring.
8. Case trimming and/or deburring (not always required).
9. Case mouth expansion.
10. Seating new primer.
11. Weighing and charging powder.
12. Bullet seating and crimping (as required).
13. Final inspection.
 
CAUTION: Read all pertinent material before actually beginning to assemble ammo.
 

STEP ONE

SELECTING A LOAD AND COMPONENTS

In the beginning, the selection of components may seem a difficult and confusing task. This is especially true for the handloader who has not yet acquired a general knowledge of basic ammunition details. Nonetheless, you will soon find that component selection quickly becomes an easy and fun part of reloading. The learning process can be hastened along by developing as much ammo knowledge as leisure time reading will allow.
 
Selecting Cartridge Cases The selection of fired cartridge cases, or new brass, presents no special challenge. If you have saved your fired cases you need only separate them into specific groups by brand and lot number. Lot numbers appear on the factory ammo box. This number may be on an inside flap or the box back. Keeping brass segregated by lots will maximize accuracy potential and ballistic uniformity. If you purchase new unfired cases, of course they must be of the appropriate caliber. Bulk packaged brass (often in lots of 50, 100, or more) is the least expensive way of obtaining new cases.
 
CAUTION: The beginning handloader should never load cartridge cases from an unknown source, i.e. cases picked up at the range or purchased as once-fired brass. Use only brand new brass or cases obtained as the result of firing factory ammo in your firearm until you have obtained the experience to evaluate fired cases safely.
 
Selecting Primers The correct primer size is usually listed at the beginning of the data for each cartridge. It is suggested you use the exact primer used for the development of the data in the Manual you are using. As an alternate, match the primer brand and correct size to the brand of the case you are reloading. Do not use magnum primers unless the data specifically calls for these as doing so can alter ballistic uniformity and the safety level of the data.
 
Do not allow cartridge nomenclature to cloud the selection of primers. For example, the 32 H&R Magnum never requires the use of a magnum primer. Always follow the primer size and type listed in the data table.
 
Selecting Powders There are many different propellant powders available to the handloader. The burning speed of each and the ballistics obtained can vary tremendously. Powders are designed to suit specific applications, such as: bullet weight, case shape and volume, pressure level and other specific ballistic and firearm needs. As a result, only certain propellants are suitable for specific applications. When selecting a powder for your first reloading efforts, it is generally best to use the propellant listed in the data for the accuracy load.
 
CAUTION: Always start with the exact powder charge weight shown as the starting load. Heavier loads should not be used until the handloader has gained some experience and fully understands proper load development.
 
Selecting Bullets Bullet selection may at first be somewhat confusing. To simplify the process, select a bullet weight to duplicate the factory ammo you favor. Many calibers use the same diameter bullet. For example, 38 Special, 357 Magnum and 357 Maximum all use the same jacketed bullet diameter of .357".
 
There is another consideration in bullet selection. This is for the need of a cannelure on any bullet to be used in a revolver. Roll crimping is essential for all such ammunition to prevent bullets from creeping forward under recoil. It simply is not possible to form a proper roll crimp unless the case mouth can be turned into a well-formed bullet cannelure. However, ammo for any rimless semi-automatic case which headspaces on the case mouth should never be roll crimped.
 
For semi-automatic firearms another bullet consideration is the nose shape of the bullet. Pointed or round nose bullets are essential to proper firearm functioning in many such firearms.
 
Usually a bullet manufacturer’s data specifies the bullet manufacturer's product number for each jacketed bullet tested. Lyman and other bullet mold makers list the bullet mold number for all cast bullet data. All the listed bullets will work fine for target shooting. However, for proper jacketed bullet expansion on varmints or game you will need to make certain that the selected bullet is properly designed and suitable for the velocity range of your cartridge. If you are loading for a hunting purpose, avoid the use of bullets designated as Match or Target style as these may not expand properly on game.

 

THE LOADING SEQUENCE

The use of two loading blocks is suggested. As each step is performed, the case should be removed from one loading block, processed, and then placed in the second loading block. This will keep the process orderly and prevent many common bench errors.
 
This reloading procedure follows the batch method. That is, a single operation will be performed on all cases to be reloaded before proceeding to the next operation.
 

STEP TWO

CASE INSPECTION

Fired cartridge cases have a finite life. Depending upon the firearm used, caliber of the firearm, internal ballistics of the load, and other considerations, it is reasonable to expect from 6 to 15 firings from each case. Eight firings are average for the typical handgun cartridge such as the 38 Special or 9mm Luger. Magnum cases such as the 357 Magnum, or 44 Magnum when assembled with heavy loads, typically last for only 4 or 5 firings. Low pressure cartridges fired in strong revolvers, such as the standard velocity loads for the 38 Special, generally offer the greatest number of firings.
 
All cases reach a point when further reloading becomes unsafe. Keep careful reloading records and perform a visual inspection of each case before, during, and after reloading to help ensure that you use only suitable fired cases.
 
Begin your inspection by wiping each case with a cloth to remove excess fouling, dirt, and any foreign material that could scratch your resizing die or the case itself. Turn each case mouth down and tap it lightly on the bench to dislodge anything that may have entered the case after firing.
 
Now look for split necks or bodies, signs of incipient case separation (a bright partial or complete ring around the case at the point where the case's solid base joins the wall of the cartridge), corrosion, or burn through perforations. Also, look for any signs of gas leakage around the primer pocket. Eliminate all cases with any visual sign of defect or abnormality. To prevent later inadvertent use of a rejected case, crimp its mouth shut with a pair of pliers before discarding it. Then place each case mouth up in a loading block.
 

STEP THREE

CASE CLEANING

Case cleaning is an important step to protect your reloading dies and firearm chambers. If you also want your reloads to look like new, now is the time to put all your cases into a tumbler. Follow the instructions that come with the tumbler. After removing cases from the tumbler tap the mouth of each case on the bench to ensure that no tumbling media remains in it. Then wipe each case lightly with a clean cloth.
 

STEP FOUR

CASE LUBRICATION

When a cartridge is fired it expands somewhat. The expanded dimensions are not compatible with holding a new bullet with proper tension (bullet pull) and are not conducive to easy chambering. To avoid these and other difficulties, all fired cases must be resized.
 
Roll each case lightly across your lubricant pad. Do not fail to lubricate each case or it will stick solidly in the resizing die creating a very difficult to correct problem. Do not use excessive lubricant as doing so may cause cases to dent during the resizing step. Use only enough lubricant to insure the case enters and leaves the resizing die without undue difficulty. Be neat. Do not get lubricant into the primer pocket or case mouth.
 
We strongly recommend the use of a carbide resizing die (when available for your caliber) as this die will eliminate the need for this step as well as the later removal of the lube.
 
NOTE: Carbide sizing dies are considered an requirement by many Handloader’s when using a Progressive Loading Press. Lubricant left on a case during progressive loading will cause powder clumping and erratic charges at the powder drop station with possible catastrophic cartridge failure as the result.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RELOAD ANY CASE ON A PROGRESSIVE LOADER WITHOUT FIRST REMOVING THE LUBRICANT BEFORE THE CASE REACHES THE POWDER MEASURE STATION.
 

STEP FIVE

CASE RESIZING AND FIRED PRIMER REMOVAL

Place a lubed case into the shell holder and run it into the full length resizing die. (Follow the instructions for proper die adjustment as explained in the material supplied with your die set.)
 
Generally, a non-carbide resizing die should be adjusted so that the shell holder, at the top of its travel, will contact the resizing die and create a slight cam action against the die. During this operation the fired primer will automatically be ejected from the case. Withdraw the case from the sizing die and place the case into the loading block, mouth down. Visually inspect each case as it is placed in the loading block to ensure the fired primer has been removed.
 
Note: The decapping rod should be adjusted just low enough to ensure the primer is pushed free of the case. If the decapping rod is too low it will impact the inside bottom of the case and be damaged.
 
Note: In the past, varying sources have suggested that the primer be seated as the case is withdrawn from the resizing die. However, it is possible for case lubricant to contaminate and thus destroy primers. Therefore, it is suggested that this is not the ideal time for seating the new primer, UNLESS YOU ARE USING A CARBIDE SIZING DIE.
 
CAUTION: If you use a carbide resizing die the shell holder should make light contact with the bottom of the die. Heavy contact could crack the carbide sizing ring. Always follow the instructions that accompany such dies.
 

STEP SIX

LUBRICANT REMOVAL AND SECOND INSPECTION

Carefully wipe each case with a clean cloth to remove all traces of sizing lubricant. Use a clean section of the cloth for each case.
 
Note: You may also return them to the tumbler for about an hour to clean them, but ONLY IF THEY HAVE NOT BEEN PRIMED.
 
Reinspect the case for any flaws. Repeated case resizing and firings can cause case mouths and bodies to become brittle and split when fired or during resizing. Watch for signs of incipient case separation. It is a good idea now to drop the resized case into a maximum cartridge gauge as a worthwhile inspection step. Place the cleaned and inspected case in your loading block, mouth up. Should you find any defects, this is the time to discard the entire lot of cases.
 
IMPORTANT - Case lubricant can ruin a primer causing delayed ignition or a failure to fire. To avoid potential primer contamination this is the point to stop the reloading process and thoroughly wash and dry your hands.
 

STEP SEVEN

CASE LENGTH MEASURING

Case measuring is an important step both for safety and for proper ammunition functioning. Cases stretch when fired and during resizing. If they exceed listed maximum case length, they will be difficult if not impossible to chamber. Excessive chamber pressure will also be caused by excessive case length. Therefore, each case must be carefully measured at this point. A dial indicating caliper is the best tool for this process.
 
The data for each cartridge clearly indicates the maximum allowable length for the resized case. If one or more cases are found to be at maximum or greater length, trim all your cases to a uniform length.
 
IMPORTANT: Case length of rimless, straight cartridges is critical for proper ammo headspace. Be certain that such cases stay within the listed trim-to and maximum cartridge lengths.
 

STEP EIGHT

CASE TRIMMING AND DEBURRING

As stated, cases must be trimmed when they become too long. Case trimming is also recommended whenever loading new or once fired brass as they are often not of a uniform length. Trimming uneven cases to a uniform length will enhance accuracy and ballistic uniformity.
 
Note: If you will be crimping cases to bullets (required for all ammo to be used in revolvers or tubular magazines), the crimping process will be less than satisfactory if cases are not of a uniform length.
 
The proper trim-to length for cases is shown in the data for each cartridge. Adjust your trimmer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When trimming, allow for some dwell time - that is several rotations of the cutter after the case has been trimmed to length. This will help ensure the maximum uniformity of finished lengths.
 
CAUTION: The material trimmed from a case flows from the junction of the case head and wall. As brass continues to flow and is trimmed away, this section of the case becomes thinner until it reaches a point where the case is severely weakened. Therefore, many Handloaders never trim a case more than four times, and when a case needs its fifth trimming it is discarded.
 
Note: Many handgun cases wear out long before any trimming is required.
 
After trimming, remove the burrs (formed by the trimmer cutter) from both the inside and outside of the case mouth using a deburring tool. A few twists of the tool is all that is needed. Do not deburr the case to a sharp edge. Tap the case mouth on the bench to dislodge any brass chips from inside the case. Place the case, mouth down, in your loading block.
Case trimmers are miniature lathes that quickly restore a case to a safe overall length.
 
Note: The initial trim of new cases is not counted when determining the number of times a case is trimmed as this trim is done not because of case stretch but rather to create a uniform length.
 

STEP NINE

CASE MOUTH EXPANSION

Case mouths must be expanded to accept the bullet and to hold it with the proper tension (bullet pull). If you are loading lead bullets the case mouth should be both expanded and belled to prevent shaving lead from the bullet base during seating. Follow the instructions that come with all 3 die straight case sets or with the Lyman M die when purchased as an accessory for loading lead bullets into bottleneck cases.
 
Note: A good rule of thumb is to bell the case mouth enough so a bullet will remain upright when set on the case prior to seating. If you must support it from tipping, generally you need more mouth expansion.
 

STEP TEN

PRIMER SEATING

Primer pockets should be cleaned before seating a new primer. This is a simple operation requiring only a few twists of the pocket cleaning tool. (Not required when loading new cases). As each case's primer pocket is cleaned, place the case in the loading block, mouth up. Some handloaders skip this cleaning, based on their experience. The beginning handloader would be wise to clean them until and unless his shooting needs allow otherwise.
 
Bring a box of 100 primers to the bench and read the label aloud to ensure that you have the correct brand and size. Then double check again. You must always use the primer size and type called for in the data.
 
It’s always good practice to again wash and thoroughly dry your hands before starting to prime. Place a quantity of primers (never more than 100, or a lesser amount as needed) onto a primer flipper tray. Gently rotate the primer tray until all primers are anvil side up.
 
Most loading tools come equipped with a basic primer seating tool that primes the case at the normal shell holder position. Follow the instructions supplied with the tool. Place a primer, anvil up, into the priming post, push the post under the shell holder, and then lower the shell holder over the post to seat the primer. On many loading tools, this requires a "feel" method to seat the primer to the correct depth. Some tools will have a rudimentary stop to adjust primer seating depth.
 
There are several methods for primer seating which mount onto the press. Primer seating depth can be controlled by adjustment (using the press handle's solid stop at the end of the priming stroke) or feel. Try different methods and use whichever produces a uniform primer seating depth for you. Many handloaders prefer priming off the press with a hand tool.
 
Generally, primers should be seated 0.003" to 0.005" below flush of the case head - a nominal of 0.004" below flush.
 
CAUTION: Primers seated too high (above flush) are a needless hazard. It is possible that such primers can be ignited before the firearm action is closed, causing a serious accident. High primers are also prone to misfires. Primers seated too deeply (below flush) can become erratic in performance or misfire.
 
CAUTION: Primers are explosive and require special care in storage and handling.
 
Place the primed case in the loading block mouth down. When all cases have been primed, verify proper priming depth by running a finger over each case head. The novice should use a caliper to verify proper primer seating depth and then run a finger over several of these. This will teach the correct "feel" so that you can verify all remaining seating depths by "feel". After you check primer depth, return the case, mouth up, to the loading block.
 
After priming, return any unused primers to their original container and replace them in your storage area.
 

STEP ELEVEN

WEIGHING AND CHARGING POWDER

Weighing powder must be done with great care and accuracy. Set up your powder scale carefully, following the instructions supplied with it. It is good practice to verify the scale's accuracy by using a weight check set.
 
Bring only one powder can to the loading bench. Read the label aloud. You must use the exact powder called for in the data. Then double check again. The inadvertent use of the wrong powder can cause a catastrophic accident.
 
Bring a box of bullets to the loading bench and read aloud the label on your bullet box to make certain the bullets are the correct weight (matched to the data you are using). Then measure the diameter and weigh a few bullets to be certain that what is in the box is as described on the label. Packaging errors have occurred. (A bullet will be seated immediately after a case is charged with powder.)
 
Pour some powder into the powder trickler and position the trickler alongside the scale pan. Also, pour some powder into an open container (or preferably into a powder measure). Using a scoop of appropriate size, place a quantity of powder, somewhat less than a full charge, onto the scale pan. (If using a powder measure, adjust the measure to dispense slightly less powder than you require. You may meter a charge directly onto the scale pan and then place the scale pan on the scale hanger, but metering into a medicine bottle works much better and results in less spilled powder.)
 
Note: A handy powder scoop can be made by cutting off a fired case at an appropriate length and twisting a wire handle into the case rim's undercut. Straight cases such as the 357 Magnum or 44 Magnum make the best scoops.
 
Bring the scale into perfect balance by using the powder trickler to add one kernel of powder at a time to the scale pan. Now pour the weighed powder charge into a case using a powder funnel.
 
CAUTION: Make certain scale poises are not inadvertently moved during the loading process.
 
CAUTION: Powder is highly flammable and requires care in storage and handling.
 
CAUTION: Lyman lab technicians have observed a potentially serious phenomenon involving mechanical powder scales, plastic loading blocks, Styrofoam packaging and other objects made of plastic. These materials sometimes retain a static electric charge, enough to create an electro-static field of varying radii.
 
This electro-static field has proven capable of causing radical defection of uncharged and zeroed scales. Depending upon circumstances, powder in the scale pan tends to dampen the amount of deflection by varying degrees.
 
The Handloader is strongly urged to clear the loading bench before setting up the scale. Then replace equipment one piece at a time while observing the scale pointer. Any item that causes a scale deflection should be removed from the loading bench. Do this at every loading session.
 
Novices should avoid the use of compressed powder charges (where the powder level in the case is so high as to require compression of the powder to seat a bullet to the correct depth). Happily, most handgun loads avoid compressed powder charges.
 
NOTES ON USING A POWDER MEASURE
You have been instructed that after metering a powder charge, it be checked and brought into balance using a scale and powder trickler. If you are loading ammunition for a non-critical application, you may want to pour a metered powder charge directly into a case (without the scale check and trickler balance) in order to save time. (Note: This method should never be used with maximum loads or by novices at any time.) When using a powder measure in this manner, ALWAYS check at least every tenth load on the scale to ensure that the measure has not gone out of adjustment and that you are using a uniform metering technique. Fine (small) grain powders lend themselves to more uniform metering as opposed to course (large) grain propellants. Be certain that you are capable of metering uniform charges before using this method. Verify your ability by metering and weighing at least 20 consecutive charges.
ENSURE ALL CASES ARE CLEAN OF LUBRICANT BEFORE DROPPING POWDER ON A PROGRESSIVE PRESS SET-UP; I.E, DO NOT RUN FULL PROGRESSIVE UNLESS YOU ARE USING CARBIDE DIES AND NO LUBRICANT.
 

STEP TWELVE

BULLET SEATING AND CRIMPING

Next immediately transfer the charged case to the loading tool and seat a bullet to the correct over-all length. Follow the die manufacturer's instructions to properly seat the bullet to the correct depth. The maximum overall length for a loaded round is clearly listed in the data for each cartridge. Dependent upon the bullet and equipment used, the finished overall cartridge length may vary by plus or minus 0.005".
 
Note: Generally, bullets should be seated to the overall length shown at the top of each data panel. Do check to see that ammo so assembled will feed through the magazine of any automatic and that it chambers properly. Check revolver ammo to see that it does not come too close to the end of the cylinder. (CAUTION: Do this testing out of doors with the muzzle pointed at a safe backstop.) Better yet, make a dummy round (no powder or primer) to check the overall length and function. Circumstances, which include magazine length, chamber dimensions, cannelure location, and bullet shape, may make it necessary to use a shorter than suggested overall length.
 
CAUTION: Excessively short overall handgun cartridge lengths can cause dangerous chamber pressure.
 
When all cases are charged and bullets seated, return all powder (from trickler, open container or powder measure) to the original container and return the container to its remote storage area. Now, re-verify that the correct powder was used.
 
CAUTION: When loading rimless case ammo for a semi-automatic handgun (such cartridges headspace from the case mouth) never roll crimp your case. Doing so may dangerously shorten the case headspace dimension. For such ammo always use a taper crimp. Taper crimping dies are standard in some die sets or may be purchased as an accessory.
 
For revolvers, using a rimmed case, roll crimping is required to keep bullets from creeping out of the case during recoil. All rimmed handgun ammo to be used in tubular magazine rifles should also be roll crimped to prevent bullets from being driven deeper into the case during recoil. Only flat or blunt nosed bullets should be used in tubular magazines.
 
Keep in mind that when roll crimping, your bullets must have a cannelure (a groove around the bullet). Such bullets must first be seated to a depth that will align the case mouth with the center of the bullet cannelure. Adjusting your seating/crimping die requires that you first back off the bullet seating screw substantially. Then screw the die down far enough to turn the case mouth slightly inward into the bullet cannelure when the loaded round is fully raised into the die. Be certain the bullet seating screw is backed off far enough to prevent it from touching the bullet.
 
Note: Crimping loads which compress the powder charge will require extra care. Additionally, to do away with the need to constantly re-adjust the bullet seat/crimp die, most handloaders purchase an extra die body for any crimping operation.
 
Note: The crimping operation may be combined with bullet seating, but the best results are obtained when it is done as a separate operation.
 

STEP THIRTEEN

FINAL INSPECTION

The final inspection should be done with great care. Start by looking for imperfections. These may include, but are not limited to: case necks that split during bullet seating, or cases that buckled during crimping (due most often to poor bullet cannelure or excessive die downward adjustment). A second check of primer depth should be made by running your finger over each case head. Dropping the loaded round into a maximum case gauge is recommended to insure it will chamber properly. Also, measure a sampling of the loaded rounds to insure proper over-all length. Should any round be found abnormal, discard it in a safe manner.
 
Place loaded rounds into suitable containers. Clearly mark the containers with: date loaded; primer used; times trimmed; powder and charge; bullet brand, weight, and type, and overall length. Enter all this into your reloading log. Your log should also include the lot numbers of all components used.
 
The loading procedure for bottleneck handgun cases, i.e. 30 Luger and 30 Mauser, is the same as for bottleneck rifle cartridges as described elsewhere.
 
As stated, the foregoing outlines the basic steps to assemble most handgun ammunition. BE SURE TO READ ALL THE OTHER PERTINENT INFORMATION REGARDING YOUR EQUIPMENT AND FIREARM BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO RELOAD AMMUNITION.



____________________
"Wimachtendienk, Wingolauchsik, Witahemui”

He who knows not and knows not that he knows not, is a fool.
He who knows not and knows he knows not is wise.


 Posted: Thu Feb 2nd, 2017 12:41 AM
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2nd Post
HighBC
Full Member
 

Joined: Tue Jun 21st, 2016
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Good stuff Olyeller, this is a major contribution to the forum.

Thank you!

HBC



 Posted: Thu Feb 2nd, 2017 01:16 AM
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Snuffy
Senior Member


Joined: Sun Dec 16th, 2012
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:thumbs::thumbs:



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Not as Lean, Not as Mean, but still a Marine!

If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace. -- Thomas Paine




 Posted: Thu Feb 2nd, 2017 01:53 AM
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olyeller
Master Handloader


Joined: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009
Location: Just West Of Bruzdenbleedin, Texas USA
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Favorite type of cartridge to load?: rifle
My favorite chambering is:: 270Win ...
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Just hope it helps someone.:reloadandshoot:



____________________
"Wimachtendienk, Wingolauchsik, Witahemui”

He who knows not and knows not that he knows not, is a fool.
He who knows not and knows he knows not is wise.


 Posted: Thu Feb 2nd, 2017 02:49 AM
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5th Post
Charley



Joined: Fri Sep 9th, 2005
Location: San Antonio, Texas USA
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Glad you are doing it.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 2nd, 2017 04:00 PM
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Snuffy
Senior Member


Joined: Sun Dec 16th, 2012
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olyeller wrote:
Just hope it helps someone.:reloadandshoot:


I will help the people willing to read it. The ones not willing to read it should be buying factory ammo instead.



____________________
Not as Lean, Not as Mean, but still a Marine!

If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace. -- Thomas Paine




 Posted: Thu Feb 2nd, 2017 06:25 PM
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gifbohane
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Joined: Wed Nov 16th, 2016
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Excellent



 Posted: Sun Feb 5th, 2017 09:35 PM
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j_locke81
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Joined: Wed Jan 4th, 2017
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good stuff



 Posted: Wed Feb 8th, 2017 02:42 AM
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win 86
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you just put part of a reloading book for all on this site, very good job. very impress with what you did, 86



 Posted: Wed Feb 8th, 2017 03:46 AM
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olyeller
Master Handloader


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Thank you win 86, hope it gets used a lot.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 11th, 2017 10:41 PM
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11th Post
Foulball
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Joined: Sat Feb 11th, 2017
Location: Anaheim, California USA
Posts: 15
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Favorite type of cartridge to load?: I load everything!
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Thank you olyeller for doing this write up.

I'm new to this board but not to reloading and let me tell you, this was an excellent refresher to read. Sometimes going back to just the first steps can open our eyes to something we've missed or forgotten. Or forgotten when teaching someone else.



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 Posted: Sun Mar 26th, 2017 05:45 AM
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12th Post
shootit
Junior Member


Joined: Wed Mar 22nd, 2017
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Favorite type of cartridge to load?: pistol
My favorite chambering is:: 45lc
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Thanks,helps alot



 Posted: Thu Mar 30th, 2017 01:57 AM
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13th Post
Poacher



Joined: Sun Aug 14th, 2005
Location: Kansas USA
Posts: 1981
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My favorite chambering is:: everything.
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This is excellent Olyeller. You knocked this one out of the park.

Take care Be safe Poacher.



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it's very strange, in fact I've never seen it before, to see blinders on the wrong end of the horse. I fear your narrow view of things will serve you poorly. "Ghrit"


 Posted: Sun Apr 2nd, 2017 05:59 PM
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14th Post
MUP
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Joined: Wed Mar 9th, 2016
Location: Almost Down South!, Tennessee USA
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Thanks OY! I've been loading bottlenecks for a few years, but will soon be loading for some of my handguns soon. I'll be going over this post a few times for sure.



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 Posted: Mon Apr 3rd, 2017 12:06 PM
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Ruffian
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Joined: Wed Feb 19th, 2014
Location: Rockland County NY
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Favorite type of cartridge to load?: I load everything!
My favorite chambering is:: 6mm&25-06AI 40&460S&W 7mm,280 Rem,300&30-378 Wby,6.5x47& 338 Lapua Mag,6mmPPC & wildcats
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great job, but only if read. Yah just like the manuals.:thumbs:



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The Handloaders Bench > Metallic cartridge reloading > Learning to Handload? > How to Load Straight-Wall Pistol and Rifle Ammunition
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