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resqdan
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| Joined: | 14 November 2007 |
| Location: | North Dakota USA |
| Posts: | 59 |
| Photo: | [Download] | | Are you a handloader?: | Yes | | Favorite type of cartridge to load?: | rifle |
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Posted: 13 March 2008 05:54 AM |
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Just a couple of questions about tumbleing media..
1st how do you know when its shot.. and should be replaced.. and do you just keep adding to it or is it best to just throw it away and start over..
2nd does it take all the resizing lube off or should you wipe them out when your done tumbleing them.. i am sure it would increase pressure if you have to much in there.. just wondering i guess
My process is to size them as i decap them and do any trimming at that time, then i clean the primer pocket and then into the tumbler they go.. i shot a few hundred rounds so far that i have loaded and all shot fine (still working on the poweder for the best round) but they fired consistantly and with no jams.. I didnt know if i might just be getting lucky or if what i am doing will continue to work for me.
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evan price
HB Full Member
| Joined: | 9 March 2008 |
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Posted: 13 March 2008 11:31 AM |
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When your media is so dusty that your brass comes out needing washed it's long overdue to change. If it is that bad adding more is just going to spoil new media.
If it is black, it's usually done. If it makes a haze of dirt when the tumbler runs, it's done.
I use Lizza lizard litter from Petsmart because it's less than $1 per pound, it's crushed English walnut shells, looks identical to what they sell for tumbler media for $5 a pound. Add some nufinish car polish to the new media while the tumbler runs, about a spoonful is all you need. As good as Tuffnuts IMHO.
Adding a couple of used dryer sheets torn into half-dollar size bits to the media when the tumbler is running, the dryer sheet pieces suck up the dirt and leave the media cleaner longer. Plus dryer sheets (used) are trash otherwise, so it's a freebie.
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Charley
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| Joined: | 9 September 2005 |
| Location: | San Antonio, Texas USA |
| Posts: | 2223 |
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Posted: 13 March 2008 12:45 PM |
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| Good advice. I use paper towels strips to pull dust from the media instead of dryer sheets, same principle. Pet store walnut shells sold as bird or lizard litter is a whole lot cheaper than "gun stuff". I use either Dillon's Rapid Polish, Midway's polish, orTurtle Wax Clear Coat Conditioner in my media. They all work about the same.
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The_Mountaineer
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| Joined: | 4 February 2005 |
| Location: | USA |
| Posts: | 715 |
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Posted: 13 March 2008 02:31 PM |
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Tumbler media is like engine oil - it never really wears out, it just gets dirty.
I've had cases polished in an hour or two with new media. When the media is really gunked up it will still work but you're probably going to have to run it a lot longer, 6+ hours which isn't good for the tumbler motor IMHO.
Therefore, I have two media cannisters - both a walnut/corn cob blend about 1:4 parts or so.
Media batch number one is for removing case lube after sizing. It is nothing more than old media that can't really polish brass anymore but it is great for taking off case lube.
Media batch number two is for actual polishing. It's new media that I'll keep using until I feel that the stuff is so gunked up and taking too long to polish brass that I'll switch it over to be used for case lube removal.
Never tried the drier sheet method but it sounds about right. My mixed batch of corn cob and walnut seems to do a great job in one swipe. But it still has that brown walnut dust that I wipe off during inspection of each and every case.
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SavageMOA
HB Pro Staff
| Joined: | 16 February 2008 |
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Posted: 22 March 2008 11:37 PM |
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| how can you tell when your cases are getting worn out?
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72coupe
Handloading Master
| Joined: | 11 June 2006 |
| Location: | Iowa Park, Texas USA |
| Posts: | 1493 |
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Posted: 23 March 2008 02:43 AM |
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One of 2 ways when you start getting neck splits is the most common way. The other is when your primers seat to easily in the pockets. This is not usually a problem with bolt actions but semi autos cannot tolerate a loose primer. If the primer does not fall out while cycleing it will back out and stop the action.
You can delay neck splits by annealling at the proper time.
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resqdan
HB Pro Staff
| Joined: | 14 November 2007 |
| Location: | North Dakota USA |
| Posts: | 59 |
| Photo: | [Download] | | Are you a handloader?: | Yes | | Favorite type of cartridge to load?: | rifle |
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Posted: 5 April 2008 02:46 AM |
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hey guys , thanks for all the advice.. i picked up some crushed walnuts at petsmart tonight, hell of alot cheaper than the gun stuff.. Now i just have to pick up some car polish and i should be set, plus i will definatly do the dryer sheet thing.. seems like a great idea..
thanks again
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Melbakid
HB Full Member
| Joined: | 7 February 2008 |
| Location: | Santa Rosa, California USA |
| Posts: | 20 |
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Posted: 22 May 2008 07:14 PM |
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When you use a liquid brass polisher like Dillon's, Midway, Nufinish, etc. you will find that there is usually no dust residue on your brass. I have Lyman's 1200 vibrator and Dillon's large vibrator and I've been using Dillon's polish for years and have had no problems with dust in my walnut media. I haven't changed it out for 4 or 5 years and I do polish all my brass. I just started using the dryer sheets in the media and have found it does help in collecting the little unwanted bits that somehow seem to find their way into the vibrator. The used dryer sheets are a very nice addition to my polishing routine.
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ryalred
HB Full Member
| Joined: | 12 May 2008 |
| Location: | SE, Oklahoma USA |
| Posts: | 40 |
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Posted: 27 May 2008 02:28 PM |
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In answer to your second question. I use a special batch of media just for removing lube after resizing. It has no polishing compounds in it. I let the brass run for about an hour and then I reload it, no wiping, all lube is gone. I use this media until it gets dark or will not remove the lube in about an hour. And, oh, by the way, I use corn cob media for cleaning the lube from cases--its more absorbent than walnut.
Good luck reloading
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