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The importance of neck turning / reaming???
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 Posted: Tue May 27th, 2008 01:29 PM
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Gnarly
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Need some help here,please.When I reloaded years ago,it was basic....crude by today's standards! but nobody (that I knew of) was using a neck turner or reamer-just dies + a chamfering tool to take the edge off the neck.Had an old friend with a tumbler & case trimmer who helped me a lot, but occasionally I had loads that simply didn't want to chamber regardless of bullet seating depth.

Now that I'm trying to re-learn loading,I'm open to suggestions.My case trimmer is a Forster Original & Midway has a neck turner to fit for ~$30 +pilots @ ~$7.50 ea. I haven't looked into cost for the neck reamer-I  figgered I'd better get advice before I went any further.....

I will be loading for the following calibers: .243 Win.,.243 WSSM, .25 WSSM, .270 Win.,.270 WSM, .30-06 .

Thanx!

                    ----Gnarly

 



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 Posted: Tue May 27th, 2008 02:46 PM
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Paul Tummers
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I think, reaming /turning necks depends on for what kind of rifle you are loading for.

If it is a rifle with a match grade custom barrel and tight reamed chamber you will benefit from it, but if it is a run of the mill rifle with a factory dimensioned chamber it might even work against you;

Factory chambers are quite generously in their dimensions because every factory round has to fit into them, cases with thick necks and cases with thin necks as well.

Neck dimensions are thus large enough to accommodate the thickest neck.

If you turn the necks of your cases you remove material, thus making the gap between the outside of your case neck and the chamber neck-aria bigger.

A round centres more or less on the outside of the neck at the front side, thus removing material there causes the round to lie in the chamber more off-center.

At the other side, upon firing, pressure builds up, expands the case and presses the outside of the neck against the chamber inside, which means, the turned neck has to expand more than a case wich still has factory material thickness.

I tried it in a rifle with a rather narrow chamber, but lost accuracy untill I started with only partially neck sizing to have a "ring"in front of the shoulder were the round was centering on in the neck-aria of the chamber.

I think, for factory chambers, more benefit is made from keeping case lots together,

trimming to the same length, partial neck sizing and occasionally slight shoulder bumping the cases.



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 Posted: Sun Jun 1st, 2008 08:59 PM
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TasunkaWitko
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hey, bud - hope things are going well in kentucky!

the more i read up on this, the more i become convinced that reaming/turning is not necessary unless you have a custom chamber built to very tight, specific tolerances, or unless you are in competition, in which case you probably have a custom chamber that is built to very tight, specific tolerances.

for those using production rifles, it looks like something that will not improve accuracy by any noticeable degree and it seems that there are other, more effective ways to tweak the most out of your rifle. i will say that turning/reaming will promote consistency, but both the inside and outside thickness of the case wall must be monitored closely.

this conclusion is based on reading, not on experience, so take it for what it's worth. also, the more confidence a person has in his ammunition, the more accurately he is going to shoot; with that in mind, if turning/reaming gives you more confidence, then do it.

Last edited on Sun Jun 1st, 2008 09:02 PM by TasunkaWitko



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 12:25 AM
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72coupe
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Several years ago I bought the RCBS neck turning setup. I went wild and turned every case in my garage which was many hundreds of cases.

It less than beneficail. My standard deviations went from the low teens to the mid 50s. My groups went to hell. Granted I am shooting most of these in M1s, AR15s & 1903s but the results were very dissappointing. Even my tight factory chambered 40X Rangemaster did not benefit from the neck turning.

If you think you must, get a ball micrometer and select your brass for neck consistency.

I recommend against neck turning in most cases.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 12:35 AM
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wheezengeezer
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never needed it except when we made 243 cases from 7.62 military.necken down will increase the neck thickness.

Last edited on Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 12:37 AM by wheezengeezer



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 01:05 AM
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72coupe
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Wheezengeezer I have necked Lake City National Match cases to 22-250. This does require a lot of trim to length and also neck turning as they are very thick that far down the case.

If you do neck turn, you must anneal the necks or your velocity will have large variations.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 01:15 PM
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wheezengeezer
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i made some 22-250 from 06 cases one time,just cause i could.lotta work!!



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 02:08 PM
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72coupe
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Yeah, I just wanted some 22-250 that said LC Match on the head stamp. Not may other people have those.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 04:55 PM
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wheezengeezer
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72coupe wrote: Yeah, I just wanted some 22-250 that said LC Match on the head stamp. Not may other people have those.
then you could bs yer buds and get them to thinkin that the 22-250 was an experimental one



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 07:33 PM
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countryboy
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speak to barebackpat bout the neck turning. think he does that with his .257 stw



 Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 10:40 AM
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wheezengeezer
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already done it.been thinking about a neck reaming setup.like wilson or sinclair.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 01:17 PM
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saddlesore
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Neck turning will help some to make more concentric rounds ,but reaming only decreases the neck tension on the bullet and has no benificaia outcome,except in tight chambers



 Posted: Wed Jun 4th, 2008 01:05 PM
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wheezengeezer
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what i am wanting is a setup to locate on the outside of the neck,to ream the neck the desired thickness and centering the hole up.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 4th, 2008 01:27 PM
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saddlesore
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First you need to size and then fire the brass.This makes thee inside the right diameter. You can buy some under sized mandrels that fit inside of just size brass though.

Then you true up the neck wall thickness making it the same thickness all aorund. After that if one wants to thin the neck wall up,you can ream it, but can also just take more off the outside.

I have a Forester setup that does both, but have  never used the reamer



 Posted: Wed Aug 13th, 2008 01:23 AM
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nksmfamjp
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I know I'll take a beating for this, but neck turning is only important when you are using bushing neck dies.  Normal dies align the lower part of the case to the inside of the neck which holds the bullet.  This should be good enough to get your groups down to .75" @ 100 yds if your rifle can do it.  Below that, you may want to consider neck turning, neck sizing, neck tension effects, and bushing dies.   



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