| Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 06:02 PM |
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lynxpilot
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Speaking with the dealer that is getting my reloading press and accessories, I told him I'd already bought a few die sets (since they don't come with the press). So far, I bought Hornady sets for SW500 and 45ACP and a Lee set for 9mm. The SW500 set has 4 dies but the other two only 3. Dealer said I would need a crimping die for my sets. Now obviously on the 500 I won't, but on the others maybe yes?
Do all calibers and types get crimped on reload? For example, I thought I'd read something about only on magnums for handgun and all on rifle. I'm confused.
All in all, I want to be able to load SW500, 45ACP, 9mm, 223R, and 7mmRM. Which (if not all) will need crimping dies?
Thanks in advance.
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| Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 06:40 PM |
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klallen
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most reloading sets will double up functions and have the bullet seating die also serve as the crimping die. all ya have to do is back out the seating plug. i would guess you have all you'll need to completely load your rounds with the sets you have.
as far as crimping usage goes, all handgun cartridges will need either a roll crimp or a taper crimp.
your revolver rounds will take a roll crimp ... actually turning the mouth of the case into a bullets cannelure. you headspace on the rim of the case. the crimp holds the bullet in place under recoil. the crimp can be applied in varying degrees of severity, with the most aggressive used as a method of boosting working pressures, allowing peak performance to be reached (i.e. .454casull).
you're semiauto round will take a taper crimp ... just bringing the mouth back into specs from the belling process. you headspace on the mouth. it also holds the bullet in place and can be applied in varying degrees of severity, but headspacing as you do with these rounds, ya always have to crimp ensuring you will get the headspacing needed.
i have never had the need to crimp a rifle cartridge with what i currently have in the safe.
welcome to the board. korey
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| Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2009 12:37 AM |
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Archangel76
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klallen is spot-on. You are well advised to crimp in a separate step when it comes to heavy recoiling revolvers (heavy .44 mag and up). Lighter stuff like semi autos do just fine with a LIGHT taper crimp.
As far as rifles are concerned, I've only crimped for auto loading military arms (AR-15 and M1 Garand) and only when using bullets with a cannelure.
It is important to remember that when applying a crimp to any cartridge you must ensure that all of your cases are trimmed to the same dimension. Any variance here will have an impact on the amount of crimp applied and adversely affect accuracy.
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| Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2009 01:27 AM |
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saddlesore
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Not much more to add,but usually lever guns with tubular magazines will require crimps on that ammo
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| Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2009 03:05 PM |
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wheezengeezer
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Your acessories should include 1 or more good manuals.Be sure to read everything that comes before the load data.
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| Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2009 05:51 PM |
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varmintcaller
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I might add just one thing to wheesengeezers post, Read and UNDERSTAND, everything that comes before the reloading data. If you dont understand anything give us a shout, as you can see there is plenty of expert advice on this forum. Last edited on Sat Jun 20th, 2009 05:52 PM by varmintcaller
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| Posted: Fri Jul 3rd, 2009 03:32 AM |
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lynxpilot
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Having problems on crimp still. On my .45's, I lightened up on the crimp because they were swelling and wouldn't chamber. Tried the same on the S&W500, but they're still coming out fat. I hate to let off much more on the crimp because of all the recommendations to have a good crimp on magnum handgun rounds to prevent bullet movement from recoil. I had one come out great, but the other 4 are fat and don't want to fit into the cylinder without pushing really hard. Everything else (like OAL, powder load, case mouth expansion) are working just fine.
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| Posted: Fri Jul 3rd, 2009 10:33 PM |
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miestro_jerry
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There are profile crimp dies that will resolve the fat case situation.
I keep several different crimp dies on hand. For my 30-30 that will used in a tubular magazine, I roll crimp the bullet in and then use a profile or "factory" crimp die on the whole case.
For my auto loader rifles, I use either a factory crimp or give the cartridge just a light kiss with the sizer die where the bullet and case meet.
For my magnum pistols, I use a strong roll crimp and then use a factory crimp die. I do load my magnum and maximums hot, so the crimp is essential. Most of my semi auto pistols bullets I use a taper or prifle crimp for them.
There is no one solution for every things, but there are good combination that work for me, but this comes from years of loading.
Sometimes it maybe the simplest adjustment with a standard set of dies and you have the best bullet for your guns.
Jerry
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| Posted: Sat Jul 4th, 2009 06:55 PM |
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choppersdad
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As was said before and especially for the semi auto rounds A. You should use a taper crimp and B. The crimp shouild be aplied in a seperate operation after the bullet seating. When you try to seat the bullet and crimp in the same operation, it is likely that you could bulge some cases.
As for my Semi auto rifle rounds, in 223/5.56 loaded for AR 15's and Mini 14 I use a Lee factory crimp die with the bullet seated with the cannelure in the proper position. For my AR Target rounds with 69 and 75 gr bullets I use the Lee factory crimp set for the lightest crimp possible,I have found that in this rifle the slight crimp, even without a cannelure...improve accuracy some little bit. As for my M1A and AR 10 I use the same format as for the 223.
Mark
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lynxpilot
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Thanks a bunch for the help. I separated seating and crimping. When I tried the first one, it was too tight. I set the crimp down more until there was a visible difference. Rounds started fitting good. I took all of the other rounds that were fat and ran them through the crimper and they all fit like a glove. I'm one more step toward handloading nirvana!
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