| Posted: Fri Aug 21st, 2009 09:30 PM |
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sittinback
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I have a .30-.30 factory cartridge that did not fire when the rifle's trigger was squeezed. The firing pin impression looks good but the primer did not detonate. I've pulled the bullet and removed the powder BUT am not certain that it is safe to remove the primer (to salvage the brass). I just started reloading about two months ago and have not had this problem to date. My question is can I remove the primer with my bench press/dies? ... can it be done so safely? ...or do I just toss the brass? thx.
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| Posted: Fri Aug 21st, 2009 09:48 PM |
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sdb777
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I've deprimed a few 'live' primers without incident. But that said, each time is it's own thing.
If anything happens, it'll be just a small pop! Be sure all the powder is out of the casing, and just for good measure...you could always pour some water in the case and let it sit for a few moments(just be sure the case is dry and lubed before you deprime/re-size or it will get stuck).
Scott (it'll be okay) B
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| Posted: Fri Aug 21st, 2009 09:51 PM |
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DesertMarine
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You can remove the primer with your press but it is recommended not to do it, due to possibility of setting off primer. Since you now have a primed case, try to set it off in the rifle several times. It's pretty hard to neutralize a primer but you could try soaking it in some kind penetrating oil for several days.
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| Posted: Fri Aug 21st, 2009 10:58 PM |
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woodsman777
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first choice would be to ditto what was already said (under safe conditions)
chamber the case in the rifle and fire the primer as you would a regular cartridge.
second choice is to deprime with your press,"wear safety glasses",
and make very slow contact between the depriming pin and the primer and slowly push the primer out.
never had one go off this way ,but use all caution necessary
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| Posted: Fri Aug 21st, 2009 11:05 PM |
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Paul Tummers
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Do not underestimate the power of a primer!
I once had an old M1 Underwood carbine, and the first and only time I seated a bullet in an empty case with a primer was with this rifle.
Of course it did not cycle, but the power of the primer was strong enough to make the Hornady plinker bullet leave the barrel.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 22nd, 2009 01:08 AM |
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sittinback
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Thanks, Scott!
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| Posted: Sat Aug 22nd, 2009 01:09 AM |
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sittinback
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DesertMarine... thanks for the advice. Scott also suggested I soad the casing/primer. I like the idea of using penetrating oil.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 22nd, 2009 01:10 AM |
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sittinback
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Fair nuf woodsman .... I'll remember to use the goggles.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 22nd, 2009 03:09 AM |
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Charley
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Shoot some WD 40 into the case, let it sit for an hour or two, then gently press the primer out. Wear saftey glasses. No big deal, I've deprimed brass with no problems.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 22nd, 2009 05:16 AM |
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miestro_jerry
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I have used WD40 as a primer neutralizer a few times and then used my Lee Universal Decaping Rod. Never had a pop, but they you have to wash the WD40 out with soapy water, because if there is some WD40 left over in the case it will kill the new load you put in it.
If you can find the center of the anvil of the primer with the Lee Decapping Rod, you may be able to salvage if you think it still maybe good. I have gotten many pounds of bad ammo from a small time commercial reloader and salvaged a lot of the components. I was young and dumb then and thought I was invulnerable at that time in my life.
Jerry
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| Posted: Sat Aug 22nd, 2009 09:59 PM |
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sittinback
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Charley ..that's exactly what I did. I was following the advice from the other guys and looked for an oil to load into the cartridge but could only find WD40. Thanks to all for the advice!
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| Posted: Sun Aug 23rd, 2009 02:44 AM |
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Charley
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Years ago, the fringe guys who published Pistolero magazine published some of the first testing I ever saw regarding kiling primers with WD40. Engledrum seemed to be a pretty weird guy, but they did some good stuff.
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DocAitch
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I've set off 3 primers during loading. Two were with the Lee Loader in .44 MAG. Because there was a heavy steel punch over the primer hole, I only peed myself a little the first time.
I was sort of ready for it the second time.
The third time I was using a Dillon 650 and the unobstructed primer went off about 20 inches from my right ear. My ear rang for days. It was most unpleasant.
If you are going to decap a live primer, use Eye and Ear protection
DocAitch
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bea175
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I have deprimed a bunch of cases with live primers over the years and have never had a problem. Just go slow and easy and wear safety glasses.
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swampshooter
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Killing a primer with WD-40 works very well, but i would degrease the case with alcohol and let dry before re-priming, it doesn't take much WD-40 to kill a primer and you don't want to kill the next primer too.
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MoreShooter
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When making primers water is used as a processing agent, specially treated of course. But the point is that the water keeps the primer mix safe for handling it is only after the water is flashed off that the primers are able to be detonated. During the manufacturing process defective primers are kept in a container of water until they are sent off for inceneration. Water works, WD 40 works, almost any fluid that is non-flammable should work, just it soak for overnight and de-cap. Just my .02 Last edited on Wed Sep 2nd, 2009 09:57 PM by MoreShooter
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| Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2009 01:29 PM |
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chucksniper
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I read in a American Rifleman Mag that WD-40 will not kill the primer, but temporaily deactivate the compound to deprime, as soon as you spray it on the primer. After awhile, the primer will reactivate for use. I know I did it.
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| Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2009 03:08 PM |
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StretchNM
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I have decapped live primers by just gentle decapping. If using a Lee press with the slot in the side of the ram for the primer arm, tunr the slot away from you (Classic Cast) or position yourself on the opposite side of the slot. Even with eye protection, turn your face and head away and gently press the primer out. I've never had one go off yet and have decapped about 30 live primers, give or take a few.
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| Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2009 03:24 PM |
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Don Fischer
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Yep I've done it. Also had one go off on me. Best thing I read here is not to underestimate the power of a primer. These days, being a bit long in the tooth, I don't fool with them anymore. If it won't fire by chambering it and I'm not positive it's deaqd, I throw them away. A bit cheaper to replace a case than an eye!
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| Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2009 11:02 PM |
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Busted
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"...not certain that it is safe to remove the primer.."
In a word, yes. Consider two points; 1) a cap has power but it's not a stick of dynamite and, 2), it will be harmlessly well contained inside the sizer if it does go off. Work the lever slowly and all will be well.
We CAN kill primers with oils, WD-40 and similar, but it's not as easy or quick as some think.
I just did a primer killer experiment by SOAKING a dozen new ones in oil, 6 in a light oil, 6 in some old Lyman case lube (it's STP actually). After 5 weeks of soaking, 3 of the 12 went off, 2 from one batch, 1 from the other. Okay, not a big "BANG" off, more like a "Phtiift" off, but they did burn. After 5 weeks!
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