| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 02:27 AM |
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chappy
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Bought a primer pocket reamer and installed it on my RBC case prep center. I started reaming because I was having problems seating primers. The manual for my hand primer said not to use more than 5lbs. of force and it seemed like it took alot more to get them seated correctly. I bought the reamer thinking it would ease seating and it did. My question is when I shooting the primers are backing out a little bit. Theres no powder residue around the primers. I have read that this is clue of high pressue but it even does it on min. loads. Is this normal and do you think reaming is good to do? One more thing is there any dangers in flash hole deburing. There were no instruction and have found limited in books.
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 03:07 AM |
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Dragon88
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If your primers are backing out, most likely you have enlarged the primer pockets. It is not normal nor safe. Why were you having trouble seating primers? If it was due due to a military crimp then you just need to cut out or swage the crimp. Otherwise the primer pocket should be the correct dimensions. Check your priming equipment and make sure you are using the correct primers before you start enlarging primer pockets.
Flash hole deburring is safe, but "deburring" to the point of enlarging the flash hole can lead to dangerous overpressures. Use only a few twists of the correct tool for this task.
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 12:19 PM |
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40twist
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+1 .... they should not back out at all. As Dragon said , you may have been having problems because of crimps. Flash hole deburring is safe to do , again as Dragon stated, enlarging the hole is bad , you just want to get the raised burrs off and a very slight chamfer. Kinda like a funnel. Best thing I can tell you to do is to take a case like a 45acp so you can see down into it easy and start deburring slowly and watch what it does.
If you are using a reamer on cases that don't have a crimp could also be why they backed out. You want to be using a pocket uniformer not a reamer for standard cases. You can "over ream" a case.
Last edited on Mon Aug 31st, 2009 12:23 PM by 40twist
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 01:00 PM |
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PopPop
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what they have stated above Plus this is what i use and just use it lightly to clean out but not ream out the pockets, i dont even use the handle i just spin the tip with my fingers and it works great, the primers pop right in and dont back out, good luck
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 01:20 PM |
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miestro_jerry
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I use the Dillon primer pocket swager, I used to ream the pockets and got a few that the primers backed out.
Also I have the RCBS primer pocket swager.
Jerry
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 02:01 PM |
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Don Fischer
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This sounds like he is using a reamer to take the crimp out of military cases. If that's it, a quick turn with a champhering tool cuts the crimp out and bevels the pocket. Been doing that for years and never had a problem.
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 03:29 PM |
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Bigdog57
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I use the primer pocket scraper tools only if there is heavy grunge in the pocket - it just scrapes the bottom of the pocket to clean it, no enlarging. If not too grungy, I just use the steel wire brush tip. Works for me. And ditto on just a light chamferring for the military crimp - it really doesn't take much. 
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 10:15 PM |
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chappy
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Im sorry its not a reamer its a pocket uniformer. From what I have read about it you use it to make all the pockets the same depth to be more uniform. That is what I have been doing taking it down till the brass bottoms out. The cutters don't seem to be adjustable and its made for large rifle primers. Mine is the same as what pop pop has pictured the only diffrence is I mounted mine on my case prep center. When I set the primers I seat them just a little bit past the base to prevent a discharge, when I shoot they then will be a little raised
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 10:50 PM |
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Don Fischer
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chappy wrote: Im sorry its not a reamer its a pocket uniformer. From what I have read about it you use it to make all the pockets the same depth to be more uniform. That is what I have been doing taking it down till the brass bottoms out. The cutters don't seem to be adjustable and its made for large rifle primers. Mine is the same as what pop pop has pictured the only diffrence is I mounted mine on my case prep center. When I set the primers I seat them just a little bit past the base to prevent a discharge, when I shoot they then will be a little raised
Chappy, unless your doing some serious match shooting, your not gonna gain much by that. It's the crud that BD57 mentioned that you really want out of there. It builds up in the corner of the primer pocket and keeps the new primer from fully seating. There is a little stiff brush made just to clean them out, I think it's a wire brush but not sure. But the stuff is very easy to get out of there. I have a nail glued into a wooden handle and the tip of the nail sharpened. Every time I take my cases out of the tumbler, I run that nail around the corner inside the primer pocket AND look for any cleaning media that may have stuck in the flash hole. The nail also pop's that out.
One of the drawbacks to handloading is that to many people really believe you need every tool made to make good ammo, you don't. Yet we keep hearing about it. Couple days ago I described how I get a bullet seated just off the lands. Another guy chimed right in that he could not believe everyone didn't have the tool that goes on the caliper's to measure from the case base to the bullet ogive. Now I can't tell you exactly how far off the lands I do load a bullet, but in the increment's we are talking about, I'd almost bet no one does. .001" is a very small measurement! After 40+yrs of handloading I am finally thinking about getting an outside case neck turrner. I surely don't need one and never have but some people will tell you the necks have to be uniform. Relatively few handloaders shoot match where .008" could mean the difference between 1st and 10th! Hunter's, even most varmit hunter's do well to measure their group's with a ruler! And those guy's claiming they shot say a .345" group, I'd like to know how they did it? First they have to have the outside edge of each shot and that takes a tool the exact dia of the bullet's fired. Then you measure the extreame spread and take away one bullet dia.
What I'm trying to say, and not very well, is to learn to make the best ammo you can make without all the super re-finements and you'll have ammo that will serve you well on animals from elk to paraire dogs! When you get ready for competation then you'll be in a better position to do the super things and get your extra .001" here and .001" there.
Last edited on Mon Aug 31st, 2009 10:54 PM by Don Fischer
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Dragon88
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Still sounds like you might be enlarging the primer pocket with your uniformer tool. Prepare a batch of brass without using that tool and see if it fixes the problem. You can debur, uniform, clean etc to the primer pocket, or you can skip all these steps, it's up to you. The important thing, though, is don't change the dimensions of the primer pocket to solve a problem, it will only create problems.
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DesertMarine
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I use the primer pocket uniformer (PPU) on all cases. As I understand it, primer pockets, like everything in the reloading cycle, need to be uniform. The larger majority of my cases, almost always have a change in primer pocket depth and I prefer to make them uniform. Some guys don't do it that way and it works for them. Like one guy said, try both ways and see what works for you.
Sinclair has the PPU for large rifle and large pistol. They are different. Make sure you are using the right one. Unfortunately they don't mark them.
The theory behind deburring the flash hole is that the flash is distributed more evenly on the powder, thus producing a more even powder burn. That is why when deburring flash hole, a bevel is created on the flash hole, creating a funnel effect. Another function of the deburring tool is to make the flash hole diameter uniform on all cases, not necessarily to enlarge the flash hole. On domestic cases, flash holes are not created equal in diameter. Burrs on a flash hole are normally uneven, distributing the primer flame unevenly on the powder. The belief is that uneven distribution of the primer flame does not create a uniform burn which causes variances in pressure and when it occurs, creates uneven results in where your bullet will hit.
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skoalman304
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are you uniforming primer pockets on virgin brass,was always told to uniform pockets after the brass was fired,because you might be taking to much away from the pocket.if using the sinclair tool it states it is pre-set and you can't go to far,but there is always a what if .i use the sinclair tool and when doing so you get little lines in the pocket well i dont stop until all the little lines are gone and the pocket looks like a mirror.and it takes alot of time and cannot be done with just your fingers.your station set up sounds like a good idea but may be to much.
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choppersdad
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I use the Dillon Finger Masher right now... but I just ordered one of the primer pocket reamers to try on the next batch of 9mm or 5.56. I want to compare time usage for this least desierable and time consuming task (in my opinion). I'm gonna mount it in my small lathe to see if I can knock off some of my fingernails...
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choppersdad
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skoalman304 wrote: are you uniforming primer pockets on virgin brass,was always told to uniform pockets after the brass was fired,because you might be taking to much away from the pocket.if using the sinclair tool it states it is pre-set and you can't go to far,but there is always a what if .i use the sinclair tool and when doing so you get little lines in the pocket well i dont stop until all the little lines are gone and the pocket looks like a mirror.and it takes alot of time and cannot be done with just your fingers.your station set up sounds like a good idea but may be to much.
Do you polish the inside of your case necks? 
Just kidding! 
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| Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2009 01:39 PM |
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chucksniper
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Here's my take on unifroming primer pockets.
I noticed, with a magnifying glass, that the wall.. where it meets the base, is curved... so you are "squaring" the pocket, in order to allow the anvil of the primer to sit straight on the base. If not, the anvil will not allow the compound to ignite when struck by the firing pin. This is not the case with Lapua brass.Last edited on Fri Sep 11th, 2009 01:41 PM by chucksniper
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| Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2009 11:31 PM |
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Busted
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"question is when I shooting the primers are backing out a little bit. Theres no powder residue around the primers. I have read that this is clue of high pressue"
Actually, all rifle primers will back out a bit when fired, even empty ones. Try firing a primed case and see it clearly.
Thus, a backed out primer has nothing to do chamber pressure, as such. It only occurs when there is a bit of slack in the cartridge's fit to the chamber. (Neck sizing greatly decreases that slack.) High - normal - pressure loads simply forces the case head back and that reseats the primer flush with the bolt face.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2009 01:08 AM |
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Don Fischer
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choppersdad wrote: skoalman304 wrote: are you uniforming primer pockets on virgin brass,was always told to uniform pockets after the brass was fired,because you might be taking to much away from the pocket.if using the sinclair tool it states it is pre-set and you can't go to far,but there is always a what if .i use the sinclair tool and when doing so you get little lines in the pocket well i dont stop until all the little lines are gone and the pocket looks like a mirror.and it takes alot of time and cannot be done with just your fingers.your station set up sounds like a good idea but may be to much.
Do you polish the inside of your case necks?
Just kidding!
That's funny because I used to do that! I used a bit of STP on a Q-tip to lube the inside of the necks. Had to get that stuff out. Also liked to clean my cases but didn't have a case cleaned. So I got a worn out brush of the right calibre and wrapped a bit of 0000 steel woll around it. Held the case in another piece in my hand. The brush was in an electris drill and turned on entered the neck tight. Then the case would spin in my hand a moment till I grabbed it harder and then the brush really cleaned up the inside of the neck. Haven't done that in years, thanks for the memory!
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