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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2009 12:17 AM
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Dragon88
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I've wanted to get into shotshell reloading for some time. I found some decent prices at Gander today and purchased a Mec 600 jr. mark V. As you can imagine I'm excited and ready to load some shells, but I have some newbie questions:

My charging bar throws the load of shot 2 grains too high on average, 494 instead of 492 grains for 1 1/8. Seems pretty small, but how much over or under is an issue?

How much variance in the powder charge is acceptable? I found that giving the bar a firm slid and then a tap produced charges +/- .2 grains. Any tips?

As I slid the bar back and forth a few flakes of powder leak out and flick off when I charge the shot. Is this normal or is something installed incorrectly?


I'm sure I'll have a ton more as I go but that's it for now. Thanks!



 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2009 01:57 PM
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Slingshot
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My charging bar throws the load of shot 2 grains too high on average, 494 instead of 492 grains for 1 1/8. Seems pretty small, but how much over or under is an issue?
If it were powder I would worry, but for shot you will get differences in every charge you throw due to the size of the shot your using (71/2, 8, 9 etc.)

How much variance in the powder charge is acceptable? I found that giving the bar a firm slid and then a tap produced charges +/- .2 grains. Any tips?

The range that you are speaking of is within acceptable safe range.

As I slid the bar back and forth a few flakes of powder leak out and flick off when I charge the shot. Is this normal or is something installed incorrectly?

Everything is installed correctly, MEC sells a brass ring that is inserted into the powder baffle. You remove the rubber washer and use it in its place. If you send me your mailing address I have a few I can send you, otherwise you can get it from MEC, Midway, or Cabeleas etc. The ring stops the leakage of powder especially if your using a "fine" powder.


Send me a PM with mailing address and I can send you a few of the brass washers.

Jeff / Slingshot



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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2009 02:16 PM
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Rockydog
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Dragon, Jeff has it nailed down pretty well here. The biggest concern in shotshell loading is to follow recipes exactly. Substitution of wads, primers or hulls can lead to high pressures big time. Unfortunately there are few warning signs with shotguns. There are a lot of Win AA wad clones out there and that's OK but don't use Federals wads when it calls for AA or vice versa etc. RD



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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2009 06:36 PM
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Dragon88
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Slingshot, thanks for the offer on the washer. I found that Mec actually included one in the parts bag. I installed it and it fixed the problem totally. No leaking powder and it made the thrown charges more consistent, +/- .1 grains. What a great little part.

I loaded up six shells last night and test fired them today, they went off without a hitch. Pattern was ok but not great. Some more questions:

What type of setup do I need to chrony my loads? I have a chrony already but it seems a shotgun blast could be quite damaging to the device without the right setup.

What type of shot do I need to match the performance of a good factory target load like Rem STS? All I have is chilled lead right now, do I need to go to hard or extra hard?

Thanks for the tips guys.



 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2009 08:52 PM
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Slingshot
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What type of setup do I need to chrony my loads? I have a chrony already but it seems a shotgun blast could be quite damaging to the device without the right setup.
Well I don't think you can chrony your shotgun due to the pattern will destroy the chronograph, but it would be pretty cool to watch :lol:.

What type of shot do I need to match the performance of a good factory target load like Rem STS? All I have is chilled lead right now, do I need to go to hard or extra hard?
I use whatever shot is on sale be it hard or chilled lead shot both work fine for my skeet / trap loads never had a problem with either. Also you can use the "generic" wads such as Claybuster and PC wads in place of factory just make sure that they are the "equivalent" of what your using. I always get good patterns out of both of those brands. 

Oh also, MEC makes a powder baffell that helps with giving more consistent powder drops here is a link to Midway but you can pick it up from MEC directly I don't know if its cheaper though. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=393396 Another company makes a plastic one but don't bother with it, it's junk, stick with the metal one and if your ordering from midway pick up extra brass and rubber washers. Trust me you will lose them and they disappear while trying to find them :confused:. I swear I see a little gremlin run off with them out of the corner of my eye.

Jeff / Slingshot :thumbs:

Last edited on Sun Aug 16th, 2009 09:02 PM by Slingshot



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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2009 08:57 PM
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Slingshot
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OOOOHHHH I got a new title "Handloading MASTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

:kneel:


:lol:



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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2009 11:14 PM
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Two pieces of 3/4" plywood in front of the chrono will be enough to handle all but the heaviest of loads from your 12ga.  Forget the screens!  Just shoot right over the top and you'll have your fps readings.

 

Scott (handloading master - pretty cool) B



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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2009 11:23 PM
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Dragon88
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I seem to remember seeing a contraption someone had set up with boards to protect the chrony from the blast, and with the shotgun close enough that the shot column would go over the sensors correctly. I dunno, maybe I'm thinking of something else.

I'm using the Claybuster WAA12 replacement wad, the 500 count bag was pretty cheap. When that powder baffle is back in stock on midway I will order it, seems like an inexpensive upgrade. Finding shot at good prices in my area is going to be the hard part. This chilled lead I have will work fine for my intended purpose I think, skeet, but I'll try to find some of the lawrence magnum shot when I start working on a load for longer range stuff.

Edit: Scott - Didn't see your post before mine. How far should the gun be from the plywood, and then from the chrony?

Last edited on Sun Aug 16th, 2009 11:25 PM by Dragon88



 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2009 01:50 AM
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Dragon, I've seen guys shoot shotgun over a chrony with the screens in place. The shoot about 2' from the chrony with plywood in front of the display to protect from the blast. The shot hasn't dispersed enough from a full choke to even be out of the wad yet.

As far as shot I just bought some chilled shot for $29.00 a bag last week. I too shoot just about anything for trap or sporting clays. You do get a few less "flyers" with harder shot. It has to do with the load set back flattening the softer shot. For birds plated shot might be worth the investment. Lead pulls the feathers into the meat. Copper plated doen't do that nearly as bad. RD



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 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2009 02:39 AM
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.45 COLT
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If you chronograph with the diffusers in place - measure up 2/3 of the way on each front support rod and mark it. I use black tape, marker would work OK too. Center of the front edge of the front diffuser, mark that too. Use those 3 points for reference when aiming. Centers the load and keeps it high off the chrono body. I shoot from 3 feet back, ProChrono.

A couple of things to remember if you chronograph shot loads. The skyscreen-type chronograph triggers on the first pellet through, which is going a little faster than the main mass of shot. Also, shot sheds velocity very quickly. #7 1/2 shot with a muzzle velocity of 1,200 FPS loses about 30 FPS at 3 feet from the muzzle.

DC



 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2009 03:09 AM
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Dragon88
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Man is that a beautiful sight, 25 shells done in no time at all and ready to box up. I think I'm going to enjoy this new press.




Thanks for the tips on the chrony. Sounds like I'll need to take the reading, add some velocity based on muzzle distance from the sensor, then subtract some for the faster pellets in front. Should I only try this with a full choke, or can I use my imp cyl which I would actually shoot with?



 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2009 03:50 AM
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.45 COLT
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The gun I use to test everything is a Modified, but at 3 feet, (or 4 or 5) it doesn't much matter.

If you have a Factory load, use that on the chrono first. They are Very close to advertised velocity. Give you a reference and also let you know if you're too close to the unit.

DC



 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2009 04:18 AM
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Dragon, Very nice looking rounds! There is an adjustment to close that small hole if 9 shot leaks out. (A problem sometimes for the skeet loads I make.) But these look very good. Get a MEC shell packer. I guarantee you'll never regret it. Wait until you want to box 500 rounds or so then you'll see. BTW you now will develop the urge to dive head first into any 55 gallon barrel that might have hulls or even boxes in it. If you start loading Nitro or STS hulls they sometimes outlast the box. My wife collects old metal picnic baskets from the '50s. I volunteer to take them down and dust them for her etc. What she doesn't know is they are full of empty hulls. Each one will hold about 350. RD



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 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2009 05:19 AM
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Slingshot
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UGH!!!!!!!! 29.00 a bag I am still using the last 5 bags of shot I have from ohhhhhh about 15 years ago when my trap club bought a pallet load and was selling it for 8.00 a bag......:eek2: My brother and I went in on it and got 40 bags of shot 7 1/2, and 9 shot .

MR. Peabody I want to go into the WAYBACK machine!

Last edited on Mon Aug 17th, 2009 05:20 AM by Slingshot



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 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2009 10:10 AM
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.45 COLT
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I got caught up in the chronographing, forgot some other things.

Those are pretty fair looking loads. :thumbs:

I prefer the plastic powder baffle to the metal MEC version. I've used both, the plastic gives me what I want.

And the most important - Don't forget to pattern your loads. A pattern board will provide more useful information than any other tool.

DC

Last edited on Mon Aug 17th, 2009 10:10 AM by .45 COLT



 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2009 03:18 PM
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Dragon88
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The shells do have a small hole in the middle. Should I adjust the press even if they are small enough that #9 shot won't fall out?

How much of a factor is wad pressure and how should I know to adjust it? I am using a WAA12 replacement wad and Red Dot, what are my options for this combo?



 Posted: Tue Aug 18th, 2009 02:13 AM
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Dragon, As for wad pressure: You don't really need any for plastic wads. In the past there were felt wads, cork wads, cardboard wads, etc. These had to be forced down to a uniform level before the shot was added. I set my wad pressure so I just barely see the indicator needle jump. This tells me that the wad is down tight on the powder. Too much pressure begins to collapse the wad legs. You don't want that as you need a little resistance to make your crimp tight. As for the hole, no big deal for now. Just keep loading and shooting and worry about that little detail somewhere down the road. You'll probably want to try some other hulls at some point. Any of the Rem Green STS, Gold Nitro, or Blue Sporting hulls use the same load as the Gun Club. The walls seem a little thicker and you might want to adjust it more then. As for the Red Dot and WAA12 just consult the manual for how low or high you can go and what the speed and pressure are in the Gun Clubs. If you can find some Win AA hulls look for the loads for them etc.  RD



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 Posted: Wed Aug 19th, 2009 01:56 AM
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Dragon88
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I've learned a lot in this thread, thanks for all the tips guys. I'm set up with components to load all my Rem and Federal hulls now for basic target loads, so I think I'll load and shoot a bunch over the next few weekends and just nail down my system. I'm anxious to start ordering different charging bars and bushings and experiment but I'll get the basics down first.



 Posted: Wed Aug 19th, 2009 02:11 AM
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.45 COLT
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Dragon88 wrote: I'm anxious to start ordering different charging bars and bushings and experiment but I'll get the basics down first.
After you've got the basics down and want to experiment, you might want to think about an adjustable charge bar. Some love them, others hate them. I fall somewhere in between those extremes. I have them in some presses, but in any press I've dedicated to a specific load, I have a fixed bar.

DC



 Posted: Wed Aug 19th, 2009 02:26 AM
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Dragon88
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I've noticed the bushings can vary in how much they throw. My Mec #29 is suppose to throw 17 grains of Red Dot, but it throws 16.2 for me. I need to go through all of my bushings and see if I have what I need for my loads. Just being able to dial in a charge with an adjustable would be nice, but I assume they can be less consistent? I might try one down the road.



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