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sealing primers and bullets
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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2007 04:35 AM
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resqdan
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I was just wondering if most of you seal your primers and bullets all the time or just for hunting rounds.. or maybe its a waste of time..

If you do use sealant i would like any advise you have,  like type and how to use it effectively..



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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2007 04:49 AM
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Poacher
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Resqdan

   When I seal rounds which I don't do a whole lot I use just standard  fingernail polish.  Right now my current sealer is I think it's called Ruby rose red or somthing like that.  I bought it and a couple of others at a garage sale.  You can buy primer sealer from Sinclair, and a few other places but from what I've seen it is just clear fingernail polish too, just at 5.99 a bottle.  I paid 15 cents a bottle,  I use the blue to paint the end of the brass so that I know which ones are mine if I go shooting with someone.
   Hope this helps some.
 
  Take care Be safe Poacher.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2007 02:19 PM
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saddlesore
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I have never done it, but I live in a pretty dry climate. Bullets and prinmers are a pres sfit and shouldn't need it. If  a nonbeliebver, soak a round in water for a week, and then take it out and fire. Just my opinion though



 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2007 03:06 PM
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Timberghozt
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I have never sealed my handloads.Used em in nasty wet extended periods and I`ve never had a problem with em not going off.:thumbs:



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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2007 05:43 PM
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resqdan
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Hey thanks guys

thats kinda the way i felt about it and maybe if i am going on a big hunt i might slap some on but i am usually just shooting at the range or my yearly whitetail hunt and usually dont get to wet..



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 Posted: Mon Dec 3rd, 2007 01:52 AM
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sniper-66
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I do a fair amount of waterproofing of rounds.  If you seal the primers and don't seal the bullets, you are only doing a patial load.  Therefore, there is a difference between waterproof and sealing rounds.  If you want to waterproof rounds, use Ortho tree pruning seal for the bullets and laquer for the primer.  Ortho seal is an asphaltic tar that almost perfectly approximates the miliary seal.  Take a Q-tip and get it moderately coated and then stick it inside the case mouth and roll it around the mouth, don't swirl it or you will develop thin spots.  Wipe any off the case mouth that got slopped outside.  Let this dry for about a day.  When you drop powder and it doesn't stick to the asphalt, then it is ready.  Now, load the rounds like you normally do and then let the rounds set for a day to allow the internal pressure equalize.  Now, using simple laquer from any paint store, tinted if you like, take a toothpick and with the rounds in a holder with primers up, take a toothpick and draw the laquer around the primer pocket/primer contact.  Let the laquer draw in for a few seconds and then with a paper towel on a board, swipe the excess off and then put them back in the holder and allow the sealant to dry.  If it bubbles, then the internal pressure isn't equalized, stop and wait another day.  The bubbled rounds can be shot as target rounds.  Your rounds are now truely waterproofed.  If you want to be sure, take a large glass cooking pan and lay about 20 to 30 rounds in it and boil a pot of water. When boiling, pour it in the pan and with a bright light off to the side shining through the pan, watch for about 20 seconds.  When the rounds start to warm, if the seal is bad, the leak point will begin to bubble.  If the rounds are pulled out with forcepts and dried, there will be no harm and they can be shot.  If they don't bubble, then they are truely waterproof.  If the process is followed, you won't need to test the rounds very often before you begin feeling confident.  The only caution is that the asphaltic tar will increase the pressure slightly, so be careful if loading at the max end. 



 Posted: Mon Dec 3rd, 2007 05:36 AM
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resqdan
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Hey thanks for the advise sniper... not sure i am that hard core.. i guess my real question is wether factory ammo is sealed or not and if so can some sealant found at a retail store work or should i take measures like you list... i want my reloads to fire like the day i reload them even years later.. regardless of what others say your method will be used for some of my ammo.. thanks



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 Posted: Mon Dec 3rd, 2007 01:27 PM
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sniper-66
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Yes, some factory ammo is sealed.  You can usually tell by the colored laquer sealant around the primer, Winchester is the most common.  Some companies utilize laquer sealant around the bullet which is another method, but I don't like it because if you don't do it right, it can lead to too much laquer, a hard seal and dangerous pressures.  When you use asphaltic tar, as the bullet is pushed down into the case, the base of the bullet scrapes away what is not needed, only what is necessary to fill in the imperfections of the case mouth and bullet is used.  The rest is a ring around the base of the bullet.  When the powder is ignited the asphalt is burnt and evacuated with the gases as ash out the bore.  Laquer around the bullet canular can leave traces in the chamber, melted and left there and I'm not sure I want a deposit left in the throat of my chamber, however, the AK ammo has been doing it for years.  Guess just preference.

  I only do this to ammo that I plan on storing for many years, or hunting ammo that i know is going to be put through repeated heating and cooling cycles over a few years.  If you do the water test as I said earlier and watch how much air is evacuated out of a case when it gets hot, then realize that much has to go back in when it cools off, then in a humid environment may cause a malfunction that you don't want or can afford.  I hope that helps.



 Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2007 02:03 AM
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resqdan
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where does a guy get the ortho sealer you were talking about..



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 Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2007 02:38 AM
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sniper-66
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Any garden supply store.  I went to buy a can last week and couldn't find Ortho, but found another brand and it was the exact same thing.  If you ask for tree pruning sealant, they will know what you are wanting.



 Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2008 06:00 PM
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Carlo1776
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Poacher wrote: " blue to paint the end of the brass so that I know which ones are mine if I go shooting with someone."
 
 
I like the idea of the blue to identify your brass at the range when it gets busy



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