| Posted: Thu May 28th, 2009 12:53 AM |
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1st Post |
72coupe
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I brought a Russian MN44 that I captured back from Veitnam. It is truly a piece of junk. When I got it the chamber was pitted so badly the fired case had to be beaten out with a rod.
When I got it home I had it rechambered to 308 Norma Magnum and only shoot very mild loads in it. In all the 40 years I have had it I have only given it what I would call a light cleaning and only after firing it.
Last Saturday I decided I would give a thorough bore cleaning. I am using Shooters Choice Extreme Clean areosol bore cleaner. Every patch since Saturday has come out BRIGHT BLUE. Not only that but after a good scubing with a brush when pushing a patch through in now it feels like you are pushing it over a file.
I am now worried that I shouldn't have cleaned it at all.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 05:22 PM |
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2nd Post |
BEAR
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Try some bore polish. I use Flitz. It will not get the pits out but it will polish the unpitted bore.
WOW, rechambered to 308 Nmag. I load the original 7.65 down to 30-30 velocities, still get a muzzle flash you could use as a strobe.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 06:21 PM |
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3rd Post |
72coupe
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Bear that thing has monster recoil even loaded down to 45,000 psi. It is so light that the recoil gives me a splitting headache after 10 rounds.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 07:07 PM |
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ghrit
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MN M44s are not as bad in the recoil department as a Krag carbine with the original military stock (have done 20 at a sitting, and didn't much like the bruising or temporary deafness, even with muffs.) That said, I run out of interest in the M44 at around 10 rounds of commercial, too. Next thing is open that spam can of Bulgarian and have another go 'round at the range.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2009 07:12 PM |
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72coupe
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I can see that might be a problem with a Krag but the 308 Norma even with the reduced load launches a 190 grain bullet at near 3000 fps.
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| Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 01:07 PM |
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Bigdog57
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Sounds like you might need to try lapping the bore, and use a slightly larger diameter cast bullet with GC? Load it to not more than 2000FPS, and it'll be a lot easier on the shoulder too!
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| Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 01:20 PM |
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72coupe
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Biddog that sounds like good advice but I am thinking of buying a new (used) barrel from SARCO. If something happens to me I don't think it is a good idea to leave this thing in its current condition.
If I leave it behind, it is an accident waiting to happen. If someone fires a full power 308 Norma Mag or more likely a 7.62X54 Russian it could be bad.
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| Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 07:06 PM |
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Charley
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Rebarreling a MN isn't an easy task. Those barrels are generally really torqued down tight. Isn't like a Mauser! Might be best to tack weld the bolt closed, and keep it as a wall hanger, then pick up an import if you want a shooter.
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| Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 09:14 PM |
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72coupe
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Charley wrote: Rebarreling a MN isn't an easy task. Those barrels are generally really torqued down tight. Isn't like a Mauser! Might be best to tack weld the bolt closed, and keep it as a wall hanger, then pick up an import if you want a shooter.
I am sure you are right. It has virtually no value to anyone except me as it was a capture in Vietnam.
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| Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 09:39 PM |
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ghrit
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Any chance to sleeve it, or is that a lost art?
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| Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 09:48 PM |
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fryboy
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i doubt that they make them in this caliber but they still sell cases for firing things like a 32 acp in 30-30 and 22 lr in a 223 etc , i thought i read s omewhere that the old enfields were the hardest to remove the barrels from ? at worst one may have to harden/retemper after a judicial use of heat ? ( and a long cheater bar on the barrel wrench ? ) i have used kroil where i'd put some on let it soak for a couple of days add a lil more then warm it up and add some more etc.it has helped in a few too torqued spots
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| Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 09:53 PM |
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12th Post |
72coupe
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I have tried to remove it with my tools at home. I don't have a barrel vice or an action wrench. The pair would cost more than a new MN44.
I need to find someone with both that I can borrow here locally.
My MN44 is a 1946 model Russian. The action on all these seems fragile when compared to a 1903 or a 700. I worry about how much torque you can put on it without twisting it.
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| Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 10:21 PM |
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13th Post |
fryboy
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ditto the price of a good smith doing as well i'm afraid 
eh it was just fodder for thought
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:28 AM |
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Charley
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At the very least you would need a hydraulic vise, a well fitted action wrench, and a long cheater bar. Again, not an easy proposition.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:51 AM |
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Rockydog
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72, I'm an old shade tree mechanic/farmer/get by with what you have guy. If you can find a barrel to put on then your biggest challenge is getting the old one off. Assuming you don't care about the old barrel, It appears to me that there are a couple of options. The first worry is how to hold the action without twisting it. I would think a couple of oak blocks inletted to not quite fit the front of the action ahead of the rails and drawn around the action with a couple of cross bolts might do the job. These blocks should be at least three feet long to either use as a wrench handle or clamp to the bench. Since you don't care about the barrel you are taking off and there is about 3" of chamber ahead of the action before the barrel tapers. Take a 3" angle grinder and grind a flat on two sides of the barrel to allow a large crescent or pipe wrench to get a firm grasp. Bolt the oak blocks around the action prior to grinding and have all the other tools available to use on the barrel before grinding. If you get right after the grinder it should heat up the barrel and threads and aid in breaking it loose without transferring enough heat to the action to harm it. I used this method to unscrew a rather rusted shotgun barrel from an old fixed barrel Iver-Johnson shotgun with a relatively nice action. Your results may vary. RD
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 03:04 AM |
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16th Post |
72coupe
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Those sound like good ideas Rockydog. I may try them.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 03:19 AM |
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Rockydog
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72. I have 2 mosins one with the round reciever and one with a receiver that has flats machined or forged on it. Can't remember without rummaging around for it but I think it's octagon. RD
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 04:00 AM |
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fryboy
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i once seen a 6'+ pipe wrench lolz...
they were round or octagon rocky..
a great vise would help ,if a round receiver i'm not sure ... another trick is to freeze it then just warm up the receiver, i do know when using heat to break loose a nut it's best if one can heat up only the nut ( in this case the receiver) once both parts are at the same temp it's kinda back to square one ,usually freezing makes it small and heat makes it larger,of course different materials have different laws in this theory ,water gets bigger when frozen for example...
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 04:27 AM |
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Rockydog
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Fryboy, I've heated nuts and cooled bolts to get them loose many times. But in the case where a shoulder is involved and may have as much friction as the thread I think one might have to think about the fact that shrinkage is not one dimensional. Certainly the threads will get smaller but will they not also get shorter drawing the barrel shoulder closer (tighter) to the action? I think one should avoid heating actions at all cost. The risk of changing the temper of an action is too great to warm them much hotter than a heat gun IMO. Then again, I'm no metallurgist by far. RD
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 05:33 AM |
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fryboy
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like u i grew up on a farm/ranch type home, while i do play with making knifes for a hobby i'm no metallurgist either lolz, i do know as long as u dont burn the carbon out of it u can retemper it ,i was just shaking my brain throwing possibilities out there to mull over( i already threw out the one of retempering it tho ) if i recall correctly on many enfields gpc ermm numrich cut a groove on the barrel around the reciever ( then offered the barrels with a shim for sale )i dont know if a relief cut would help in this case or not and was saving that thought as a last option ,if one had the time, tools, and desire they could prolly make a receiver clamp as well as a barrel vise,most barrel vices were designed to save the barrel too tho ,in this case ...that 6' pipe wrench or ur flats would kinda hose saving it lolz ,i wasnt advocating great heat ( words used were frozen barrel-it's thick and warm the reciever-it's thinner) i do know that the closer one can get a wrench to the receiver and still be on the barrel the greater amount of torque ( less twist)as stated the cost of the tools is greater than the cost of a different gun and having the action re-heat treated is about the cost of a new gun ...the only thing is is the sentimental value of this gun and that is impossible to put a price tag on but then again i have seen guys put $400 barrels on $25 surplus mauser actions
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