| Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 11:30 AM |
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1st Post |
woodsman777
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I test fired a cetme 308 and put half down ,I'll pay off the other half in two weeks
it shoots well holds 2" group at 100yrds from a rest with open sights,no misfeeds or malfunctions,
the deal comes with 1500 rnds of milsurp ball ammo of south African origins
12 -20round mags , it has the original furniture + a nib synthetic stock set and manuals
read a bit about these its like a predecessor to the g-3
don't know a lot about these anybody have any thoughts, suggestions and or warnings about these.
all input welcome
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| Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 02:41 PM |
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2nd Post |
Bigdog57
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German engineers postwar went to Spain, to continue the work begun with the STG44 rifle. This resulted in the CETME battle rifle. Initially using a lighter "CETME" 7.62 round, they reworked the Modelo 'C' (which is what our commercially available CETMEs are) to use the 7.62X51 round. While the rifle will handle any military 7.62X51 ammo fine (it need NOT be "NATO" spec), it should NOT be used with commercial .308Win ammo. The commercial brass is thinner, and can rip - I have experienced this myself. The roller-lock system is more forgiving of pressure than the gas system other rifles use - no real 'tuning' necessary or possible. Bullets should be kept in the 147 to 150 grain range for best performance. I find that Aussie and Venezuelan CAVIM brass is reloadable, while South African and Spanish Santa Barbara are Berdan.
This applies to the HK91/G3 rifles developed from the CETME as well.
Some parts interchange between the Spanish and German rifles, but many do not. The HK has better rear sights, but the CETME generally seems to have lower felt recoil. Both use the fluted chamber, which will leave burn stripes on the brass - it can be cleaned and reloaded, IF it is not beat up. The CETME/HK are brutal on extraction though, and the brass will often be seriously dented.
Using a fixed 6X42 scope, I can get 1MOA accuracy with good ammo in my CETME. Most surplus ammo will give 2 to 3 MOA.
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| Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 02:57 PM |
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3rd Post |
miestro_jerry
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I have one of these rifle still in the kit form, haven't had time to put it together and tune it to my shooting level.
Jerry
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| Posted: Wed Jul 29th, 2009 12:30 AM |
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4th Post |
BigBill
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I have one of these i purchased when the dealers had them from Century arms. It was my very first rifle in 308. I like it but i don't shoot it much. It cycles fine with south african 308 ball ammo and its accurate too. The south african 308 ball ammo is good accurate surplus ammo. My French MAS 49/56 Commando Rifle in 308 shoots the SA ammo too with no problems. My 308 saiga shoots 1 1/2" groups at 100yds with SA ammo too.  Last edited on Wed Jul 29th, 2009 12:33 AM by BigBill
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31st, 2009 02:24 PM |
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Burt
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These are just my views of the CETME and my opinions only. I have had three of them and now down to one. The one I still have I built from a kit. Do a search on the www and look up checking headspace and bolt clearance. It would be better for you to see what I'm talking about than for me to try to explain it.
Another point that I have found important is lubrication. I have read that just a fine coat of oil inside the receiver is all you should use. That anything like grease will just collect dirt and debris and cause malfunctions. I have tried shooting the rifle with no lubrication, light oil and light oil with a small dab of Lubriplate on the bolt carrier rails. The action works better with the light oil inside and some Lubriplate in my opinion. The blow back design of the action is dirty to say the least. I had a fellow tell me that those gasses and carbon that enters the receiver is what lubricates it...hmm. I don't think so. I guess if a person was in a hostile area and your life depended on the rifle and you were concerned about debris being collected in the action then light oil may be better. But for target shooting and above freezing temps, a little grease on the rails would be the way to go..IMHO.
The brass has pretty much lived it's life when it is fired through a CETME, at least in the ones that I have owned and own. The fluted chamber and the ejection is pretty hard on the cases.
If you plan on taking the fire control group apart, take pictures and notes before and during disassembly. Mark parts and keep the group assembly on a white towel...it's a nightmare if you forget how it goes back together. Ask me how I know!
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31st, 2009 03:04 PM |
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6th Post |
Bigdog57
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I too go very light on lubrication in my CETME. I use BreakFree, as it is a 'dry' lube - far less gunk build-up. I don't find cleaning the CETME as daunting and troublesome as others seem to. Early on, I used an industrial 'metal conditioner' (the name escapes me at the moment - need to get home and check the bottle) and it resulted in a very slick surface. I have used it in other guns too - really helps lubrication, without gunkiness.
I am hoping to add the ejection buffer soon, so as to reduce denting of the cases. Cleaning the flute burns isn't bad, though they never come totally clean. The Spanish Lady leaves her mark permanently! 
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31st, 2009 03:51 PM |
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Burt
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I came back here to add to my post so as to not 'sound' like I was knocking the CETME rifle. Glad you chimed in Bigdog57 about lubrication. I got to thinking about my post and thought I should add that it was a new receiver and I'm sure that some wear is needed for correct function. Though it is a cast stainless and I would hope that Century did it right, the receiver is still not as good as the original I'm sure...but I don't know. The inside of the receiver was pretty rough when I got it and I sanded and polished it the best I could on the inside. So this may be the reason that a little Lubriplate helped more on this CETME than just oil.
As far as being dirty in the receiver, I used surplus (Hirtenberger) and some Lake City. The Hirtenberger brass seemed to take on grooves in the brass more than just powder burn marks...weaker brass? I don't know of how the chamber and inside of receiver could not get pretty dirty with it's blow back design.
I am in no way knocking the CETME...just not a big fan of that blow back design. If I didn't like the rifle it would have been gone long ago. It's just that we ALL have "toys" that we like more than others.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 2nd, 2009 04:55 PM |
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pakm
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I have had Cetme's and H&K 91's (don't have any at the moment) but I picked up a "PTR 91" the other day and I really like this one. it's accurate and funtions great. I took it out of the box and shot it "dry" and there were no problems. It threw "factory spec." ammo about 18 yards, and light .308 reloads(for my Ishapore's and FR-8) about 10 yards. No FTF or FTE. and it was accurate.
As I say this, yes, I do have an M1 Garand(just like I carried in boot camp) and a springfield M1A just like I carried for 3.5 years in the MC.
I they are my "go to" guns. But the PTR would be in the line up some were close to the top.
OF course the Ljungman and Hakin would be close also.
PatLast edited on Sun Aug 2nd, 2009 04:57 PM by pakm
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| Posted: Fri Aug 7th, 2009 02:36 AM |
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9th Post |
woodsman777
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Thanks for all the great first hand info guys ,Ihave picked up the rifle and it is a very good shooter.
it came with a chinese 4X28 scope(nib) and a japanese quick mount base(nib) ,
the scope didn't fit the base ,the base didn't fit the rifle.
its amazing the things you can do with a dremel tool
I'll find out what kind of grouping this scope will give me on the weekend
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woodsman777
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barks with some authority doesn't it
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BigBill
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I really don't like the charging handle i wish there was a way to change it on the G3 cetme.
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miestro_jerry
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Bill,
There is a way to change the handle, you need the armors handbook and a few tools to do it. If you were lucky and bought one of the kits from Century arms, you would get a G3 lower that is not altered. Not sure how that one got by the feds.
Jerry
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| Posted: Wed Sep 16th, 2009 12:13 AM |
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13th Post |
BigBill
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miestro_jerry wrote: Bill,
There is a way to cahnge the handle, you need the armors handbook and a few tools to do it. If you were lucky and bought one of the kits from Century arms, you would get a G3 lower that is not altered. Not sure how that one got by the feds.
Jerry
I'm just getting older and weaker I guess I took it out to play with it and i still can charge it. I need to workout soon. When i was loggin i was running a 100cc 25lb chainsaw all day so i'm really not weak i just need to wake up my muscles now.
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Darth AkSarBen
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I've held the PRT-91 recnetly and if the CETME is anything like it, it should be an excellent rifle. I would find it hard to pass up if anyone had one for a direct swap of the Saiga. Only thing I would find objectionable would be the way the chamber treats the brass.
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miestro_jerry
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I reload the brass that my L-91 spits out, it needs to be anealed more often,
It's a great rifle.
Jerry
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