| Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2009 03:39 AM |
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Dragon88
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I have a couple weeks of leave from the Army and I'm planning to make a trip down to the CMP South Store in Alabama. I've wanted to get a Garand for a long time and I think this is the perfect opportunity. What are the most important things to look for in buying a Garand? I know about the different grades, I'd like to get at least a Service grade if they have some. Should I guage anything on the rifle before buying? Are the SA the best? Any special considerations on the stock, finish, serial number range, etc?
Should I buy milsurp ammo there if they have it available, or jump right into reloading?
I've found some good websites which I'm reading though, but I appreciate any concise advice you can offer. Thanks!
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| Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2009 04:08 AM |
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leadhead
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Are you wanting to compete with it or just as a rifle to have and enjoy shooting? according to the cmp website http://thecmp.org service grade will have throat and muzzle erosing gauged below a certain standard. You can always restock the garand, http://cheaperthandirt.com, http://www.midwayusa.com, etc do sell stock kits.
I have shot both 30-06 and 308 garands and love them, but havent been able to buy one yet.
With reloading for the garand just be sure to firmly crimp the bullets and as added measure of safety I would get a gauge to measure head space off of the bullets ogive like hornady (stoney point) LNL gauges to head off any problems. As I experienced this with the 308 owners handloads were jammed into the lands hard creating problems.
Good luck with your purchase, I am truly jealous.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2009 04:16 PM |
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saddlesore
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I have shot several thousand rounds of reloads in my grands and have never crimped one. Use 4895 or similar burn rate powder. Nothing slow.
BTW. head space is measured from the back of the case head to the shoulder of the case,not the bullet. Head space will have been checked at the armory and will be within specs if the rifle is sold as a service grade.
Rifles not within specs will be so marked and a warning attched that they are not guaranteed for being shootable.
If you buy a service grade garand from CMP,I don't think you have an opportunity to inspect each one except maybe a quick look, but certainly no mircrometer checks.
They will all be within tolerance though.
Look at the front sight to see if it is tight. A lot of wear on the gas plug will keep it from tightening down. That can be fixed esaily. Gas plug and tube will be in spect but new ones can be had to tighten up to get added evlocities.
Look for excessive wear in the rear sight adjustment. Push down on the reciever sight and try to move it back and forth. Excessive movement shows wear in the track or the sight itself. This can be fixed with shims under the sight or glass beding compound in the track. Or you can buya national match sight for $75-$100
Stocks are as they come up. Some will be better than others and the stock on the rifle might or might not be the original stock. More than likely it won't be. Look for cracked upper hand guards and excessively oil soaked stocks.
Trigger groups are the same and wil lbe mixed or matched. Usually the Winchester trigger groups were better.
Almost all service grades are refurbished and will not have matching serial numbers. You have to get to the collectors grade to get into that
Last edited on Mon Sep 21st, 2009 04:21 PM by saddlesore
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| Posted: Tue Sep 22nd, 2009 01:25 AM |
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leadhead
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With headspace I was refering to using reloads as in make sure the shoulder is not pushed back when sizing and also to head off the other problem (at least what we could determine at ther range)which was the bronze point bullets he used the ogive was too far forward and seated into the lands creating pressure problems. The overall length seemed correct so this is the pitfall I suggest looking out for. When a round fired it ejected the spent round and because of the pressure slammed the next round into the chamber forcing the bullet back into the case locking the chamber shut. We did eventually get it open with a rubber mallet.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 22nd, 2009 01:50 AM |
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-6
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"Feel" the slack in the bolt as you pull the handle to rear. Make sure it is not excessive. The rifle may have been a "boot camp" piece and have had a million rounds through it. wc
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| Posted: Thu Oct 1st, 2009 12:49 AM |
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rdm1962
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I got a S.A. service grade about a year agoe. The sn 5,797,xxx that makes it made in 1955. The barrel is made in 1/55 also. The service grade will gauage well within military tolarences. Mine shoots great.
I use 57.5 grains of IMR 4350 with a 150 gr. FMJ. I do use a light crimp. Make sure the primers are seated all the way in the pocket, I have had a few slam fires. Make sure you stock up on E blocks when you see them. Saves time at the range if you have them pre loaded.
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| Posted: Thu Oct 1st, 2009 02:08 AM |
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ghrit
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rdm1962 wrote: Make sure you stock up on E blocks when you see them. Saves time at the range if you have them pre loaded.
Or pick up a spam can of milsurp. That will supply you for a LONG time with clips. 
(Not to mention reloadable brass.)
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| Posted: Sun Oct 18th, 2009 10:19 PM |
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hardpressed
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when i picked up my m1 from cmp (from camp parry ) i checked the bore by gadging it and checking it with a light to look at the rifeling
also checked the stock for looness same with the rear site and just fell the action make sure it feels right
i must have spent 4 to 5 hours at cmp i got a service grade they show some rell caricter and history
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| Posted: Sun Oct 18th, 2009 10:39 PM |
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Dragon88
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One of my local shops has a bunch of loaded 8 round clips for ~$6 a piece. Is that a good or bad price?
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| Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 02:09 AM |
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hardpressed
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i got 192 rds in clips and bandlers for 75 at cmp
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| Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 12:57 AM |
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rdm1962
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Dragon88 wrote: One of my local shops has a bunch of loaded 8 round clips for ~$6 a piece. Is that a good or bad price?
Not great but not being gouged either. The "n" blocks sell for $1 each at gun shows and on line. That makes the bullets $0.62 each. That is a little high but you are paying for the convience and his shipping cost also.
I say buy them, shoot them and have fun.
Save the "n" blocks and set yourself up to reload for 30-06. I pick up once fired brass a my local range. I full lenght resize them and load them with 150 grain fmj. I posted my load data further up in this string.
Good luck Ralph
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| Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 05:26 AM |
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sako06
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I've shot handloads for matches & hunting loads without crimping the bullets in my garand.I loaded Hornaday 150gr spitzer boattail fmj bullets using the data in the Am Rifleman 3/86 article "Reloading For the M1 Rifle" the article covers bullets weighing 150gr thru 200gr plus powders and primers,many have this article and have used the recommended powders to get exceptional accuracy.For hunting mule deer in colorado I used 165gr Nosler Ballistic Tips,IMR 4895 powder,military & commercial brass with Rem & CCI LR primers
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