| Posted: Wed Jul 9th, 2008 04:00 AM |
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miestro_jerry
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Is there a good method training dogs not to pee themselves or worse when a gun is discharged near them
I maybe getting a mixed breed full size dog from the shelter.
Thanks,
Jerry
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| Posted: Wed Jul 9th, 2008 04:35 AM |
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2nd Post |
Dirtkicker
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Start him easy. Let him see guns, smell them, be around them. Give him treats.
Start first shooting at a distance when he is eating. .22s at fifty feet or so.
Then go to treats and .22s a little bit closer. Praise him for just being there with you. Make a big deal of it.
That will tell you pretty much everything you need to know about him and how he handles that sort of thing.
Go easy. Lots of praise and encouragement. No big loud stuff.
Some dogs CANNOT be made to accommodate gunfire. Be ready for that.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 9th, 2008 04:49 AM |
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miestro_jerry
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Thanks.
Jerry
____________________
No Goats, No Glory
NRA Benefactor Member
Ohio Rifle and Pistol Association Member
The Cast Bullet Association
Bethesda Farmers and Sportsmen Club
ODNR Certified and Licensed Hunter
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| Posted: Mon Oct 13th, 2008 06:49 AM |
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LilMag
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Jerry, getting a dog from the shelter to hunt with gun in hand, may very well be your first mistake savvy! I have a couple of friends that did so and they got problems from the get go. Now both dogs were GUN SHY!!! Very seldom can this condition be reversed in a dog and those that can take a ton of training by a Pro and that will cost you more many than you can realize, at around $500 a month for starters.
One has to take medication the rest of it's life, to the tune of around 20 dollars a week for pills. Not a good thing for someone who wanted to hunt birds in the field. I suggest you figure out what breed of dog will suit you for the type of hunting you wish to do and then start looking around at breeders of that bred. Also always get refferences from breeders before you purchase. Always try to see first hand, both sire and dam of the puppy you wish to purchase.
There is NO substitute for excellent bloodlines in a hunting dog! We at Tall Oak Kennel, in Missouri, raise some of the best bred German Shorthair Pointers in the country but that is another story. All our Studs and Dams are out of National Field Trial Champion tittled dogs.
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 06:12 PM |
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Irish Mike
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Hello Jerry, say you want a bird dog, I know a guy who is ready to give a dog or so away to someone who will give it a good home period.
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| Posted: Wed Apr 1st, 2009 08:08 AM |
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fryboy
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i've been fortunate,i've always taken my pups with me when i went shootin ,they of course having been around when i was loading shells and cleaning the weapons etc ,u may get lucky and find one that doesnt mind but then again u may find one like my friends who hides every fourth of july ( as a funny note i've had worse luck getting one over being car sick ( uugh ) dirt kicker has it mostly right tho i'd make sure that i used a 22 rifle and perhaps with either subsonic or cb's for the lighter report etc or even a air gun , dogs as we know have great and sensitive hearing and pistol shots can hurt our ears even with plugs and muff's imagine what it does to them on the plus side shotguns usually dont "crack" like hi powers do ,slow steady lots of reinforcement and always try to make sure that the dog is behind the muzzle g'luck amigo !
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| Posted: Fri Apr 3rd, 2009 03:44 PM |
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16gauge
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Some good advice here so far....I'm no "expert", but I have trained my own hunting dogs (retrievers). All the stuff I've read basically says to bring them in gradually while they are doing something that they enjoy. Then they associate the sound of gunfire with something pleasant. The way I did it was with the food/ .22 route (started off with a cap pistol; then repeated it with a starter pistol). After that, I took them and a retrieving dummy to the local trap/skeet range. We started way down the road....I'd put the dog on a check cord and toss the dummy for him/her to retrieve. (You need to understand that these dogs love to retrieve just as much as eat!). We would slowly walk up towards were the guys were shooting. If they showed any hesitation at all, or even noticed the gun fire, we would stop and throw a few more dummies in that area, then move up. Pretty soon, were were up at the line, standing right behind the shooters.....pups watching the guys shooting with no fear at all. We stayed for a short while, then walked back to the car, repeating the retrieving with the dummy. Now, when I take my guns out, they get all excited because they think were going hunting.....if I'm just target shooting, and don't take them, I get "that look" when I get back!
Just remember: the key is graduality and associating the gun fire with something they enjoy.
Also, don't forget that a dogs ears are quite sensitive, so if you take them along, don't expose them to long range sessions......it can be quite unbearable! It will also make them deaf a lot faster too.
I'll close out with a story that was told to me when I was a kid by a family friend. Here is a method one should NOT do! Apparently, this fellow's father in law had an English setter that was great at finding birds, but was gunshy. The FIL decided he was going to 'break' the dog of being gun shy, so he put it on a 20 ft cord and made the dog sit at his side while he fired a 12 gauge over it's head. The dog took off in terror to get away from the sound of the gun.....until it ran out of cord. Then then guy jerked the cord.
He 'broke' her, alright.....broke her friggin' neck! Poor dog died, and her last memory was the terror of that gun!
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| Posted: Fri Apr 3rd, 2009 09:15 PM |
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Irish Mike
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16Gauge, my favorite upland gauge for shooting!
Well, we do things just a little different than the average person who reads a book or too on how to train their dogs. No one at our kennel takes a young dog out to gunfire until it is at least 10 months old. This is done first with a starter pistol at 100 yards, while dog is excited about the birds being held in front of hime.
I have seen far to many young dogs, that could have been good upland bird dogs but got pushed to hard to fast. It only takes ONCE mind you and the pup or young dog is ruined. Why people want to push or get a young dog going so fast is beyond me but it is done all the time, mostly by those that just don't know and go by hear say of what someone else down the road might have told them. Half the upland dogs in shelters today are because someone screwed them up or didn't go about it the proper way.
The pups we keep for later use, are let to be that, just pups and they run, jump and do whatever until it is time to start learning. We let them run with mom & pop and they pick things up pretty quick really. A young dogs brain is NOT ready for much of anything other than eating, sleeping and growing period. They will learn their name and a command or two prior to 10 months of age and how to walk on a leash. Come is the first command and NO is the second. We also don't teach an upland dog to SIT.....I don't want a dog sitting, I want them pointing and this is a reverse of the process.
Last edited on Fri Apr 3rd, 2009 09:20 PM by
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| Posted: Fri Apr 3rd, 2009 11:00 PM |
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16gauge
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I should have pointed out in my previous post that I started to introduce my dogs to gunfire when they were older (like around 5-6 months of age), after we have learned basic commands, such as sit, stay, come, heel, ect. and have had them retrieving to hand nicely.
While you don't train pointers to "sit", we do train retrievers to sit....we want them to sit, or "Hup" when the bird flushes so that A.) they aren't lunging at the bird as we are trying to shoot it and B.) to better mark the fall for the retrieve.
Half the upland dogs in shelters today are because someone screwed them up or didn't go about it the proper way.
yep...and the other half are there because people don't stop and think that most hunting breeds are high energy breeds and need to be exercised and 'worked', otherwise they get bored and get into trouble trying to occupy themselves. My one chessie is a semi rescue.....great dog, loves to 'cuddle' while we're watching TV. Got him from a trainer....seems the owner wanted a 'hunting dog' and so when the trainer brought him in to show him his progress (while he was still a pup), he through a duck for the dog to retrieve. The dog brought the bird in half way, then dropped it. The owner went out, picked up the duck, hit the pup over the head with it, and then left him with the trainer.....for 2 1/2 years! I bought him, and I've been working with him the last couple of years, and he is coming along all right.
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Irish Mike
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16 Gauge, Hats off to you sir for taking the dog and giving it a home. Some people come to our kennel and think a started dog should do everthing 100% from the get go because it has had 8 weeks of training.
Why most dogs are a full blown bird dog until their 3rd year and that intails a whole lot more than 8 or 10 weeks of training. Then you have the "REDNECK" who goes over to Bass Pro and buy their dog an E-Collar, (shock collar by old school standards) and thinks that this pup or older dog even, will be trained with in a couple of jolts of power and if that don't work, you just turn up the volume to the next notch or two on the transmitter.
We train the dog first and then only use that e-collar as reinforcement or for tracking the dog in the tall CPR grass etc, some of our dogs can hightail it out there quick and if you don't keep tabs on them, they can be out of range and get lost from you. Thus that little buzzer goes off and they KNOW to head back to us in a hurry and not miss feeding time. By the way we use Dog Tra Collars~!
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 12:24 AM |
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miestro_jerry
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I get the neighbors dog to do the basic commands by a simple reward system. The reward can be praise, ear rubs or a doggy treat.
Out there some where is a dog that is meant for me.
Jerry
____________________
No Goats, No Glory
NRA Benefactor Member
Ohio Rifle and Pistol Association Member
The Cast Bullet Association
Bethesda Farmers and Sportsmen Club
ODNR Certified and Licensed Hunter
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