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Any Gunsmiths/ Firearms EXPERTS at the H-BENCH?
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 Posted: Mon Dec 1st, 2008 01:20 PM
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Blackhat
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I am hesitant to ask this, since opinions are like fanny cheeks (everone has two), but Souper and I were discussing barrel lapping and fire lapping. I have three rifles that copper foul badly after only a few shots. All three shoot great when copper is gone.

Anyone have some good info from reliable people on the matter, not just ordinary opinions.



 Posted: Mon Dec 1st, 2008 02:40 PM
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DesertMarine
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I posted on "300 WSM Winchester Shadow" about fire-lapping and hand-lapping barrels.  The following article is by Dan Lilja, one of the premier barrel makers and his comments on barrel lapping. http://www.riflebarrels.com/articles/barrel_making/barrel_fouling.htm

Also found this from the Los Angles Silhouette Club.

http://www.lasc.us/RangingShotBarrelMakingFeature.htm

Article from Shooting Times Magazine. 

 http://www.shootingtimes.com/gunsmithing/st_lappingbarrel_200805/index.html

and NECO

http://www.neconos.com/details2.htm

Hope we can get responses from persons more knowledgeable than myself.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 02:08 AM
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Blackhat
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Thanks for the info DM! The rifle I've spent the most on, is the worst. I feel that I could not hurt it in a fire lapping session. I have even considered simply applying a fine grit compound to a cleaning patch and making a few passes to smooth the bore out. I have experience with steel in general and I do not think I will go at this totally blind. This one rifle, in particular, will foul so bad in anywhere from 3 to 6 shots, that you have to use extreme force to push a solvent soaked cleaning patch down it after the shots. Much more so than my other rifles of the same caliber/make.

Again thanks for the threads.



 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 02:57 PM
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DesertMarine
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Thanks Blackhat.  One suggestion is to wrap a wet patch on a bore brush with the lapping compound rather than just a patch.  Also might try J-B Bore Brite Paste before using lapping compound.  It is abrasive but I don't know what grit it is.  If you have access to a bore scope, look at what the bore looks like.   Also, as I found out, slug the barrel after every lapping session and use the coarser grit compounds as little as possible.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 16th, 2008 12:34 AM
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72coupe
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Dang Blackhat that does sound like a problem. Do you know who made that particular barrel?

I like the suggestion about the bore scope, they only cost about $750. You should buy one and let me use it occaisionally.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 16th, 2008 01:48 AM
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When he's done with the bore scope ship it my way for use and I will mail it back. :wink:



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 Posted: Tue Dec 16th, 2008 01:52 PM
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Blackhat
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I bought a bore scope out the Cabela's catalogue about 4 months ago. It is an econoline version, probably made in China, for about $45. 16" long as I recall. It works surprisingly well. You just need someone to hold/adjust the light from the other end. I have not had a chance to look at the two bores with the problems yet but, will try to do so this weekend.



 Posted: Wed Dec 17th, 2008 11:48 AM
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crazy2medic
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My son's NEF in .204 would copper foul badly, after 50rds it would go from a 1/4 mao to a 2" mao, took some flitz metal polish and a bore mop, polished it by running that bore mop through about sixty times, started out by going in short back and forth strokes for the entire length of the bore, completely solved the problem!



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 Posted: Thu Dec 18th, 2008 02:31 AM
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DesertMarine
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Blackhat, I looked at the borescope on the Cabela's website.  Do you get a view of the barrel longways or does the borescope go on a 90 degree view?  I have the Hawkeye borescope which gives a 90 degree view with magnification into the bore.  Curious as to what kind of view you get.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 19th, 2008 02:30 AM
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Blackhat
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Hey GI-rine, My borescope views out the front, I believe appox. one inch ahead. For the money, I am  quite impressed with it. Since it is only 16" or so and non-flexible, you have to remove the action from the stock to get your head close enough to see the other end of the barrel. The eye piece can be focused to the eye. Like I said for the low end cost, it is decent.

I believe your Hawkeye is pretty high dollar - like $600 up, is that  correct?


Crazy-med, where do you get this Flitz Metal Polish? I've never heard of it.

Last edited on Fri Dec 19th, 2008 02:36 AM by Blackhat



 Posted: Fri Dec 19th, 2008 01:37 PM
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DesertMarine
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If the borescope meets your needs, that is what is important.  Flitz cloth has been around forever.  Never did like it as much a Brasso but might meet your needs.  I don't know who sells it anymore.  



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 Posted: Fri Dec 19th, 2008 01:51 PM
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Midway sells Flitz paste and other things that may work as well. If you can't find it locally. I think even Walmart may sell it.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 20th, 2008 01:08 AM
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crazy2medic
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I'm trying to remember, but I think I bought it at home depot! if not check at any good hardware store!



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 Posted: Fri Jan 23rd, 2009 11:03 PM
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miestro_jerry
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I have used Flitz on my at least one of my rifle's bore, I also have used powdered mics of one type or another. But to really clean the bore out, I use carb cleaner, it works really great.

Jerry



 Posted: Thu Jul 16th, 2009 09:40 PM
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Paul B
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Blackhat wrote: I am hesitant to ask this, since opinions are like fanny cheeks (everone has two), but Souper and I were discussing barrel lapping and fire lapping. I have three rifles that copper foul badly after only a few shots. All three shoot great when copper is gone.

Anyone have some good info from reliable people on the matter, not just ordinary opinions.


I firelapped a Winchester M70 in 7x57 mauser that fouled badly and accuracy would go to hell in about 20 rounds. using such nasty stuff as Sweet's 7.62 bore cleaner would take literally hours to get all the copper out. I bought the cheapest firelap kit I could find (Only has three grits, coarse, medium and fine.) and cheated a bit with the instructions. According to the instructions, you're supposed to fire 10 rounds with the grit, clean, then 10 rounds with the next finer grit, clean and so on. Well, firelapping causes a bit too much erosion of the thoat to suit me so I did 5 rounds with each grit, but used cast lead bullets instead of the recommended jacketed. BTW, cleaning that stuff, especially out of the chamber is a bit of a PITA. Then I polished the bore with some JB Bore paste. The barrel still fouls, but It's had about a 75 percent improvment over what I started with. Later, I "lapped" the bore again using the fine compound and a very tight patch. The barrel is even better now and the rifle thinks that a bench rest gun was it's daddy. :lol:

Seriously, the gun always did shoot well till the fouling took over. Now it shoots even better and fouling is more like a normal rifle. The rifle is one of my all time favorites.

Paul B.



 Posted: Tue Jul 28th, 2009 03:50 PM
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I have a 6.5x284 that copper fouled, a high power competitor friend of mine recommended Tubb's final finish kit. I used it and was very satisfied with the results. This rifle now copper fouls much slower than before. I can now shoot  sixty rounds before copper starts to show up, which is a significant improvement over what it was.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 3rd, 2009 01:52 AM
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sako06
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For a dirty powder residue fouled barrel I followed my GS rec and bought JB Bore Cleaner which has a mild abrasive in it available at brownells.



 Posted: Mon Aug 3rd, 2009 05:04 AM
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The guys over in the Paper Patching forum at Castboolits would tell you that about 50 to 100 rounds of paper patched boolits will straighten those rough bores right out for you. Something about the paper jackets burnishing the barrels in short order. RD



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