| Posted: Fri Jan 20th, 2006 12:16 PM |
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hunterfisher
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To put and keep a very sharp edge on my knives I use the Gatco kit. Works great for me. What is your favorite way of keeping a good edge?
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| Posted: Fri Jan 20th, 2006 02:32 PM |
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dakotasin
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i use a diamond-impregnated steel.
buck knives, what i use, have always been difficult for me to sharpen, but once i went to the diamond-thing, they sharpen right up.
i don't use a jig or a kit, though - purely freehand. it took me years and years to learn how to sharpen a knife. nobody would/could show me how. but now that i have it figured out, i can get my knives extraordinarily sharp, and they hold the edge for about 3 deer.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 23rd, 2006 02:00 PM |
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Timberghozt
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I use a fine diamond on a knife I consider dull to start am edge.I have a set of Smith`s Arkansas oil stones I use to put the edge on my knives that I like.My Grandpa made knives and taught me the correct way to turn a pocket knife or hunting knife into a surgical instrument.Like Dakota I sharpen freehand the way I was taught and any knife in my pocket or sheath will shave hair at any time.
I can do a lot of deer with one sharpening of my CaseXX skinners ,my Boker pocket knife is hell on deer.
The hogs I helped butcher this weekend..Geeze one of em had shields an inch thick.I got about halfway through him and had to get Lenny`s fine diamond out.I switched through about 3 knives on 4 hogs helping him skin and quarter em.They dull the hell out of a blade.Amazing..
For a fine finish on a blade sometime,roll your pickup window down and whet the blade on the top of it... You`ll see what Im talking about when you think your knife is sharp...
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| Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 03:29 AM |
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Poacher
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I use a ole butchers stone. and Arkansas soft and medium oil stones to sharpen. when I get it where I want it I pull out a razor strop that is leather on one side and a silk strop on the other. I had to pretty much teach myself on it and the only time I tried to use a sharpining tool it just didn't feel comfortable.
You can pick those strops up at any barber warehouse. Best investment I've ever made.
Take care Be safe Poacher.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 30th, 2006 04:11 PM |
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MBPG
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IWhen I'm done putting an edge on my knives,I roll up a news paper and run the edge arcoss it a fewe times - each side away from the sharpened edge.I find it'll put that razer edge extra fine.But not so good for skinning,rather have a semi dull edge so not to cut into the hide,that is if you want to save it.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 30th, 2006 04:38 PM |
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Charley
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I use my Green River knives for all my hunting and camp needs. I used to sharpen freehand. Years ago, I was in the retail grocrery business, and spent a fair amount of time in the meat market, so I can freehand a knife. That said, my brother gave a me a Lansky set three years ago. i used it once, and I was hooked...it flat works. All my knives are sharpened using the Lansky system now.
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| Posted: Thu Feb 2nd, 2006 08:19 AM |
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Leonard
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Geeze, where to start? I own carborundum, soft washita and arkansas stones and one super fine surgical black hard Arkansas. I also have five diamond sharpening "stones" various grits, and ceramics. I have always freehanded my knives, if that is the proper term(?) as opposed to attachments and sticks, etc. I'm a little vain about the edge on my knives.
I like to count strokes, beginning with ten per side, counting down. Then grab a finer stone. I have used a lot of different honing oils and water and also WD40, gotta keep those fines from loading up the stone. My method is to push in a forward direction, from point to heel.
I like what TG said, because I always have a knife in my pocket that will shave hair. I like Bucks and Case knifes. I'm not a knife nut, don't really have a large collection, but I do have a few engraved presentation knives that I don't use, just momentos. I own exactly one custom caper that I designed. I love it. Carbon steel, hollow ground, micarta handle. Everybody should own at least one perfect hunting knife.
Some of the things I had sent to me from my African hunt was a zebra hide drum, a flyswatter switch, made from a wildebeest tail, and a hunting knife made with the tusks of one of my warthogs. It's real nice, in a velvet box, and I'll never use it. I just wanted something a little different besides the usual mounted heads on plaques.
Sharpening a knife is a real skill, takes a bit of talent.
Good hunting. LB
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| Posted: Thu Feb 2nd, 2006 08:21 PM |
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The_Mountaineer
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I use a variety of tools and techniques for my few blades. I don't get too excited about knives though. I just want them to work.
I have found that the quality of a knife can be judged by its steel and how the handle is attached. I prefer those with a shank that runs clear through the handle for the most part. Folding knives are compact but difficult to clean, besides my old trusty leatherman goes with me everywhere, everyday and it's folding.
I also think the "grind" of the knife has a lot to do with the quality of it. Some, I've found, just don't wanna sharpen either due to the quality of the steel or the grind.
Usually, I use a diamond impregnated Gerber stone that has a ceramic backing. I "pull" the edge across the stone freehanded. By this I mean I don't try and "slice" the stone as so many folks recommend. Rather I start from the back edge of the knife and slide the stone to the edge. It seems to work well and doesn't bugger up the non-honed portions of the knife that may have inscriptions or engravings that collecting types cherish so much.
I've tried the Lansky system and it does a good job. However, I've found that unless you mount the knife in the EXACT same position every time in the stand, it will change the pitch or grind of the knife over time. Not a huge deal but if you're off this initial position, then it will take longer.
Just been my experience. For the serrated knifes I have to hand-hone them with a diamond impregnated pointed rod that is used for fish hooks as that's the only way I've been able to get them sharp again.
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| Posted: Fri Feb 3rd, 2006 01:03 PM |
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MBPG
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I have a couple Buck knives hanging around,but I find it hard to keep
an edge on them.I have to sharpen after every use. I find the steel in
the Bucks I have not up to par??Does anyone else have this problem?
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Timberghozt
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Hey Vic.I have owned a few Buck knives over the years.They are notoriously hard to get to take an edge.They have to be sharpened correctly to get a razor edge on them.I think this has to do with their steel being harder than some other knife makers.Usually though if sharpened correctly a Buck will hold an edge very well.
I don`t personally care for Buck knives.Boker is my favorite.Good ole Solingen carbon steel and none of that fancy dancy Stainless steel shit for me in a pocket knife..I also have a Gerber that is blackened stainless.Though it is a good knife, it aint a hair on a good Boker`s ass when it comes time to gut,skin or cut meat..
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Leonard
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Actually, I'm not real keen on Buck knives, either.....except, they are well made and are good value.IMO The problem is that they are so difficult to sharpen, and I have never noticed that they are exceptional for holding an edge?
Bokers (ceramics) are beyond my price range.  My wife would divorce me if I spent that much on a knife! You can buy a gun for the price of a Boker!
But, I just love Case knives, any Case knife. I have owned and lost many sod busters, but all their pocket knives are real good.
There is a lot of satisfaction in attaining an edge. Now how are you getting that satisfaction from the Bokers, TG? And, what happens if you drop it on a hard surface? "tink" 
Good hunting. LB
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Timberghozt
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Hey Leonard.My Bokers are carbon steel,not ceramic.I wouldn`t waste my money on that ceramic stuff.I like steel you can stick in a tater and it`ll turn blue.
I agree,ceramic is too expensive and has to be specially sharpened.Why go through that when an Arkansas stone and a little oil does the trick fast with steel?
I have a set of Case XX skinners with stacked leather handles my dad bought me a few years ago.Sweet knives they are.They take an edge and they hold it.I don`t think you could go wrong with a good Case knife.
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Poacher
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The only Bucks I look at buying are the ones that were from the early 80's. I feel those were made with good steel and will hold an edge. I did years ago buy a Chicago cutlery folding knife. I've never seen another one although I'm sure there are others out there, it holds a beautiful edge and is balanced well for a 4" folder.
Take care Be safe Poacher.
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Black-tailed Bandit
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I have a old buck with the slippery black handle and a Geber Gator series Clip point blade. I use a Landsky sharping system works like a dream.
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TwoBeards
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I gotta give it to you guys who sharpen your own knifes. I have tried and tried for many years and even tried many of the sharpening kits and I just cant grasp it. I can screw up a great knife really fast just trying to sharpen it. I take my knifes to my wifes boss who is a chef and he can put one hell of an edge on em. Here's to you that can sharpen your own knifes Jimmy
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 01:29 PM |
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caz223
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Most of the knives I sharpen I do by hand without a guide. The knife edge doesn't last as long that way, but seems to cut better.
Believe it or not, if I sharpen working knives, I even do it a different way. I use a coarse rat-tail file to get the profile right, then grind it with the grain on the file, making little micro serrations. Then I switch to a stone then a strap.
I ground a working USMC knife for a vet friend of mine, it was all ground up from being sharpened on a grinding wheel.
I spend 2 or 3 hours on it, because I wanted it nice and sharp for him.
He picked it up, and went out to his car.
I later found out he cut himself in the car, seeing if it was sharp, and immediately took it home and dulled it on his grinding wheel. *shrug* Oh, well. I tried.
You can also repair an edge with a series of very fine wheels on a dremel, but to sharpen it with those tools, you'd need the dexterity of a neurosurgeon.
I also have a lansky, never use it.
Last edited on Mon Mar 20th, 2006 01:34 PM by caz223
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 05:39 PM |
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Blkpwdernut
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caz223 wrote:
I also have a lansky, never use it.
You can send that Lansky to me and I'll give it a good home. Love mine.
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21st, 2006 05:46 PM |
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caz223
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Blkpwdernut wrote: caz223 wrote:
I also have a lansky, never use it.
You can send that Lansky to me and I'll give it a good home. Love mine.
To be honest, I wouldn't even know where to look for it. I don't use it because it doesn't maintain the correct angle around curves like a focused, skilled person can do if he puts his mind to it. The knives that I have that I would actually use the lansky on couldn't be hand sharpened because of the design of the knife. Tantos, swords, that sorta thing.
The last time I used it was for bragging rights, I somehow ???? Managed to find a machete that would take an edge. I used an orbital sander, a vise, a dremel, coarse files, and the lansky to get it in condition to sharpen it by hand. I disremember who made it originally, but I recognized the proof marks on it, and bought it for a fraction of what it was worth at a flea market. It was old. I traded it years later for a cold steel tanto set. The new carbonV oyabun is still my favorite. I have no idea how they can make stuff that good for that cheap. It's not high dollar, but it's still pretty good. Not for skinning. Too long. Too flat. Too straight.
Years ago, I managed to combine a really old suitcase type hair dryer, a gas grill (That I filled with charcoal.) and an old double bitted AXE that was made from old saw blades, and managed to re-heat treat it. (Yeah, I ruined the grill, but I got a killer axe out of the deal.) It's really sort of humorus to see a grill glow red hot at night!! No, I'm not going to do that anytime again. Not worth the effort. I don't know how those blacksmiths can swing a hammer for that long without getting sore. Now I know why people don't do that. Their display battle axes are made of stainless. Stainless axes meant for display would dull in a NY minute. I guess I'm not a display kinda guy.
Last edited on Tue Mar 21st, 2006 06:05 PM by caz223
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WildBill
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I have a lansky sharpening kit. It works good for a quick job, but nothing can beat a good wet/oil stone. IMO
Bill
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