miestro_jerry
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I have an Emerson Tanto Benchmade Automatic in my collection, I really like it. Boker makes good knives, but many of the old Case knives are well worth their money.
Cold Steel has some good knives, but I think they are a bit over priced.
The knife I carry the most is my Swiss Army Executive, you all know what I carry in the field.
Jerry
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| Posted: Sat Dec 12th, 2009 01:54 PM |
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22nd Post |
Jc31
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I vote for Marbles, when they were good and American made. I have one I carry hunting that was made shortly before they sold out and I love it.
Qman, I am not sure the detail on Olsen as far as steel. They are a decent knife, being from Michigan I do not know anyone who still carries them but I know a few guys that collect them. If youhave a model number or picture I can probably get you some info on them.
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14th, 2009 04:23 AM |
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23rd Post |
steel13
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Ive carried the Kershaw elk skinner for probably 10 or so years. I believe it has a good utilitarian point for most of my field dressing chores and has a good little gut hook for splitting the skin. Before that it was a shrade skinner that I modified to a drop point, and still use for butchering.
I think that there are a lot of good knives out there, custom and off the shelf alike, the only one that I absolutely will not attempt to try are folders, and even more so, the exchange a blade styles. Slick bloody hands dealing with sharp blades, trying to trade them out is asking for trouble. IMO
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14th, 2009 01:39 PM |
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24th Post |
Dirtkicker
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Here're a couple of really inexpensive knives from Cold Steel. Would you believe ten bucks each with sheath? They aren't elegant but they will do the job as more-or-less expendable utility knives. As they come from the factory they are almost sharp enough to shave with. They are, top to bottom, the "Roach Belly" and the "Finn Bear." Attachment: finnbear:rbelly.jpg (Downloaded 34 times)
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14th, 2009 08:51 PM |
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25th Post |
Jc31
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Dirtkicker, do they hold a good edge or do they have to be re-sharped constantly?
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14th, 2009 10:58 PM |
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26th Post |
DM
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I won't claim MY choise is the "best", as i haven't tried all of the other knives out there, and NO ONE makes the BEST of EVERYTHING. BUT, over the last 40 years or so, the best by far knives i've used, have been the Gerber "custom series" that i bought in the 70's. Here's my C375 that's skined and quartered many moose, caribou, whitetails and sitka blk. tails. It's also skinned several brown bears and many other animals since i bought it.
I have 3 of them, and they have absolutely been the knives i always go back to, after trying a new one!
Here's the latest knife i bought, it's a Gerber S30V,
I've only gut and skinned 3 deer with it so far, so i'm not sure about long term reliability...
DM
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14th, 2009 11:39 PM |
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27th Post |
miestro_jerry
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I like the Benchmade and Boker knives. but because of some of the work I do around here, I sometimes carry a cheap folder. So if I drop on the ground while driving my tractor, I may get mad for loosing it, but I am only out a few bucks.
My sheath knives, don't fall out, don't break easily, but I made them.
Jerry
Attachment: cheapfolder1a.jpg (Downloaded 30 times)
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| Posted: Tue Dec 15th, 2009 03:38 PM |
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28th Post |
Dirtkicker
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Jc31 wrote:
Dirtkicker, do they hold a good edge or do they have to be re-sharped constantly?
I just got these, so I can't really say. They're a Krupp stainless and so far hold a very good edge. I'm "testing" the 'Roach Back' in the kitchen, where it makes a very good all-purpose knife.
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| Posted: Tue Dec 15th, 2009 04:23 PM |
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29th Post |
miestro_jerry
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I have found the Bokkers and the Benchmade to hold edges for an extremely long time.
But if you use your hunting knife for scraping, the edge will wear quickly. Like dragging it across something that is hard.
Jerry
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| Posted: Tue Dec 15th, 2009 10:24 PM |
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30th Post |
OldStuffer
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Buck 110 Folding Hunter, Buck 119 non-folder, and Kershaw Alaskan Blade Trader.
The 110 takes care of lighter work, birds and such, but will do a deer up just fine if I wish it to.
I leave the deer/big game work to the 119, minus skinning and chest-cartilige cutting. While I've split a deer by brute force with the 119, the Kershaw is a set with removable blades. The 4" drop point gets light use, the saw blade splits a Whitetail's ribs in about 15 secconds, end to end, the big arched skinning blade, with wide open gutting hook, makes peeling one a near-breeze.
All 4 parts fit in the sheath with the 4" blade mounted to the handle always.
It´s interchangeable blades are a 3 1/2" 420 J2 stainless clip point hunting blade, a 6" high carbon steel wide tooth saw blade and a 6" AUS-6A stainless guthook. The handle is black task force rubber with red trim. It features a quick lock mechanism in the handle that leaves the entire blade useable. Comes complete with a brown leather harness belt sheath that holds the extra blades.
The 110 and 119 have served me for over 20 years each, the Alaskan, about 15 now.
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Stainlessbutcher
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I carry a benchmade stryker and they are nearly impossible to sharpen with the tanto point. Bokkers are excellent blades and I have a couple in my collection. What I look for in a good hunter is that perfect balance of easily sharpened and holds an edge for a long time. What I have found is there is not such an animal in my search. I use an old carbon steel nameless knife that was made very well, if somewhat rough, and for skinning I'll use either my Gerber (taiwan) field dress kit skinner, my old green handled stainless schrade, or my coleman/western skinner. I've got a few caper types I've made for capeing the large trophies, however, I've never used one for that purpose since I haven't shot any large trophies since I made them. When I get my collection here at the new house, I'll shoot you guys some pictures of some pretty unique knives...if I do say so myself.
Butch.
miestro_jerry wrote:
I have found the Bokkers and the Benchmade to hold edges for an extremely long time.
But if you use your hunting knife for scraping, the edge will wear quickly. Like dragging it across something that is hard.
Jerry
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miestro_jerry
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I have never had trouble sharpening Tantos, it a matter of sitting down with the right stones and holding the blade at the proper angle.
Jerry
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Stainlessbutcher
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Jerry...this particular blade is ATS34 high carbon stainless...I know that sounds like an oxymoron, but it's true. VERY hard steel...which is why it's difficult to sharpen. I've had one good edge on it since the first time it got dull and that took a bit over four hours to attain.
Butch.
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miestro_jerry
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I bought a set of "paper wheels" one had diamond paste and the other has some find grit. This set of wheels on a bench grinder lets you do some decent sharpening and fast.
ATS34 is a wonderful stainless, it is a slight off shoot of CPM 154. I have been making knives out it for many years, back into the early to mid 90s. Not sure of when, because I also use 440 as well as traditional carbon steels. I think I still have maybe 12 feet of 1 1/4" stock out in the shop.
I have been an on and off guild members for a few years. I also make wood chipper blades.
Jerry
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