| Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 04:34 AM |
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miestro_jerry
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As that I have been a guild knifemaker, I have learned many ways to sharpen my knives. But I still like to sit down with my set of Arkansas stones and get the edge almost razor sharp. For most people that some by, I use a set of compressed paper wheels that are mounted on a bench grinder, that does a good job and fairly fast.
So do you all sharpen your edged tools?
Jerry
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| Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 05:38 AM |
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Rockydog
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Jerry, For really dull knives... Coarse stone/fine stone/Steel.
For Touch up......Fine stone, Steel
I sharpen toward the edge as if I was trying to shave a slice off the stone or steel. Circles or dragging the blade backward across the knife only leads to wire edges. When "shaving" across the stone be damned sure your finger tips are below the top of the stone or you won't have to worry about police records containing fingerprints. RD
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| Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 04:58 PM |
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fryboy
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depends on the blade ,usually on my skinning knives a couple swipes on a crock stik is all i need,new to me blades if bad i used diamond stones if really bad one of my belt sanders/grinders,my chip carving knives i use a leather strop and super fine sandpaper finishing with the strop impregnated with rouge(very sharp polished edge-scapel like but way more wicked )my bread knife i use a fiskars/gerber dual mini crock stik combo,my hunting hatchet is flesh/bone only and i use a small fine diamond stone on it ( eze-lap but my oldest smoothest one )my chainsaw blades i use the dremel tool on ( love that system ! )axes n adz i use a file on and finish with a fine whetstone ,scissors if not to bad a small crock stick (just like cutting with them ) rougher stuff like the mowers get the old trusty grinder
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| Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 08:41 PM |
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Gutshot
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Where can one get a razor strop? They are scarce since on can't use them for disipling our kids with(hence the moral state we're in...but don't get me on a soap box...all of us here know that anyway). Or do you make one. If so how does one do that and what materials does one use?
Gutshot
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| Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 12:02 AM |
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miestro_jerry
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Find a barber supply place, they sell strops, if you can't find one of those places, here is a decent place on the net:
http://www.classicshaving.com/Razor_Strops_Hones.html
For leather sharpening, I have a little 1 x 30 belt sander that several places sell leather belts in that size. It does work well.
As the Razor sharp, generally that is a high carbon steel blade, you can do it with a combination of stones, including a black hard Arkansas stone, the the leather belt on the sander.
There is another level above razor sharp, it is called scary sharp. THis is a level of sharpness that is beyond razor and surgical sharp, if you try to shave the hair off your arm with such a sharpened blade, you will remove a layer of skin and not even feel it until you see the blood. 
Jerry
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| Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 02:20 AM |
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fryboy
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i had my huntin axe like that once ( u should of seen the look on the face of the guy who said it wasnt sharp when running his thumb over the edge when he saw the fine 1/4"wide layer of skin he had shaved :P )
gutshot u can make one -i often do for the carving knifes , best way is start with a decent leather strop(clean) i prefer 1 1/2 " wide , a razor needs a rough and a fine (or rather fine and finer )tho i usually use the red jewler's rouge one the most (finer) get a stick of compound and start stroking it on the strop dry ,like sidewalk chalk sorts and filling in large area's) when thoroughly covered take some lite oil ( 3 in 1 works )and oil the strop rubbing the compound deeper into the leather work the ol in and then rub the compound on again , a couple coats followed last with the compound usually works ,do two straps ( fine and finer )then attack handles and a swivel and u will have a geeniwine homemade razor strop ,tho for most use i use it on the edge of a table or board ,
as jerry said there are places on the net that one can buy strops even mugs and brushes etc here's the link to one of my fav's
http://www.heimerdingercutlery.com/catalog/category.cfm?Category=114&CFID=547958&CFTOKEN=52652550
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| Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 07:44 PM |
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DesertMarine
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Never been able to get the angles right when sharpening, so I went with the Edge Pro sharpening system. Tried Arkansas stones, Japanese water stones, Spyderco system, no can do. The Edge Pro works good for me.
I tried the sharpening wheels, not good for me.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 5th, 2009 03:47 PM |
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caz223
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A coarse file for touch-up, abrasive 'steel', then a fine Arkansas stone.
I go with the grain on the file rather than against it, it makes micro-serrations in the blade that really make it cut better without affecting smoothness.
It's impossible to do the finger test on a blade of good carbon steel after I sharpen it, as it will draw blood.
What's the point of a dull knife?
I use an electric razor to shave, and think an edged weapon should stay away from my face/neck.
Last edited on Fri Jun 5th, 2009 03:57 PM by caz223
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| Posted: Wed Jul 28th, 2010 01:38 AM |
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21buck
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I have been using the Spyderco tri angle system since the early 80"s . It's all in the angle and the approach to sharpening a knife or axe, or sword.. Having sharpened knives for 30 some odd years, I can tell that the edge is sharp. Do you want it even sharper??? Get some carbide rods 1/8- 3/16 and just touch the edges once or twice.
It usually takes about 15 seconds of actual application on a moderately dull knife to get it shaving sharp. Sometimes the quality of the blade is such that it takes a longer time .
Only recently have I begun to use oil stones because I didn't know how to clean them. Now I have to practice to reacquire that skill .
21 Buck
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| Posted: Wed Jul 28th, 2010 12:57 PM |
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daboone
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like RD, coarse stone/fine stone/Steel. I still prefer carbon steel knives to the stainless stuff too.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 28th, 2010 02:31 PM |
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DesertMarine
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21 Buxk. I have a Spyderco sharpening system like you. My biggest problem is that I wind up with taking off the point of the blade leaving a triangle on the tip. Have you had this problem and how did you solve it? Other than that, it's good.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 28th, 2010 05:52 PM |
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21buck
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I have not heard about the problem that you are having. I have literally sharpened thousands of knives.
Procedure: 1. triangle black with corner edge to the middle. Depending on the dullness of the blade, I make 2- 6 cycle passes , right and left sides
2. Triangle flat side is the honing side and it gets the most work until it feels smooth.
3. Triangle white with corner edge to the middle. Use this until you get a smooth even pull thru. It's the slow stone
4. Triangle flat until it is really smooth.
Exceptions: Serrated blades and scissors I use the corner edges slow on the down pull on the serrated side and normal on the smooth side. normally it only takes a couple passes.
5. I use a carbide rod about a 1/8" in the groove after all of the above and 2 light swipes and you are thru.
This system works best if addressed square to the table with the sharpener and your elbow locked in a perpendicular configuration. The blade must be perpendicular to the table, let the stones take care of the angle.
Testing the edge. Does it slide off your finger nail, it still dull repeat all of above, if it catches and grabs the nail it is sharp. I have used the same set up for years and it works just fine. Could you explain how you break the point in more detail.
Thanks,
21 buck
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| Posted: Thu Jul 29th, 2010 12:19 AM |
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-6
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After stoning I use an old ceramic insulator a bud gave me. Really puts the finishing touch on an edge.
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when everyone stands around -- reloading.
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| Posted: Thu Jul 29th, 2010 02:06 PM |
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DesertMarine
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Thanks 21Buck. My problem is probably technique. I have sharpened a few that came out good but most with a triangular point. My main sharpening tool is an Edge Pro sharpener. That works great for me.
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The Marines I have seen around the world have the cleanest bodies, the filthiest minds, the highest morale, and the lowest morals of any group of animals I have ever seen. Thank God for the United States Marine Corps!
--Eleanor Roosevelt, First Lady of t
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| Posted: Thu Jul 29th, 2010 05:36 PM |
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21buck
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DesertMarine, Using the Spyderco system is not the easiest but once learned I feel it is the fastest. Perpendicular blade to table with locked vertical arm movement. i suppose that the edge would get triangular if you are working it real hard or often. Try to keep your blade horizontal as you pull thru but perpendicular tot he table.
If I can help more let me know.
21buck
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DesertMarine
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Thanks 21Buck. I can see where the Spyderco system can be good especially in a field situation.
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The Marines I have seen around the world have the cleanest bodies, the filthiest minds, the highest morale, and the lowest morals of any group of animals I have ever seen. Thank God for the United States Marine Corps!
--Eleanor Roosevelt, First Lady of t
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21buck
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DesertMarine, Yes it is very handy and compac. The technique is to utilize right angles and lock your shoulder and elbow. It is somewhat uncomfortable but it sharpens blades quickly. As a finishing touch to your blade. I would use a carbide cyclinder be it a rod to just touch the sharp edge. It is amazing how sharp the blade really is.
Have you ever cleaned the tri angle stones and smooth them out? Babo works fine. Clean but rough tri angle stones need to be rubbed against each other until smooth.
21buck
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3006 user
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I notice that no one has mentioned the Lansky system.. It's worked for me for a lot of years.. Getting so that I hardly use my Washita and hard Akansas stones any more.. On a dull blade, I start with a medium ceramic, then a medium diamond, and finish up with a hard white or pink ceramic..
I salvaged an old leather purse that my wife threw away, cut the side off, and rubbed jewelers rouge into the unfinished side for a finish strop...
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DesertMarine
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Yes, I have cleaned them but don't remember what I used. Probably something like Comet or Ajax. I have used ceramic rods for touching up before and sharpening. Normally I use Comet.
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--Eleanor Roosevelt, First Lady of t
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21buck
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Desert Marine, If you use ceramic round sticks or stones. They need to be used only before the tri angle stones. The triangle puts a different radius on the blades. I use a carbide rods but ever so slight there is literally no pressure on the carbide . Just the contact moves the edge.
21buck
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