| Posted: Tue Nov 4th, 2008 10:29 PM |
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d45/70
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I have a Marlin 45/70 that I had a Bushnell Ellette 3x9 on for years.Great scope but I wanted one with MORE eye room, I got a cabalas Lever action scope for it. The scope I like, although I had to send the first one back. The lens chipped off three peaces of glass in the scope(???) must have been a defect? Any way The replacement one I cant keep tight. The same mounts and rings as before and the other ones never moved. Its not the screws there still locked down. After like 20 shots the scope will rotate or slide back as far as an 1/8 inch. I have been checking it right along and it looks like when it moves it moves all at once?????What the Hell?? It will hold the point of impact till it moves then WAY OFF!! I made some marks on the scope and rings when it moves I can loosen the screws and put it back and the POI is near the same. How am I going to fix this problem? Last edited on Tue Nov 4th, 2008 10:30 PM by d45/70
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| Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2008 01:13 AM |
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wheezengeezer
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get some rosin to apply between scope and mounts.if you cant find it anywhere, find a gunsmith who has some.may need shims to make clamping more secure.when the screws are tight there should be some gap between the halves.if not that is the problem.
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 03:32 AM |
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sako06
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First off what brand are the rings? I've never had any problems with Redfield steel rings(now made in china).A friend of mine bought the cabelas scope for his 45-70 & had to shim it to raise it up enough to regain adjustment ,he made shims out of an aluminum coke can.Add shims to so you can tighten the screws a bit to snug the scope down.
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 12:03 PM |
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swampshooter
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Try putting a strip of paper on the inside of each lower ring. That's always worked for me. I've tried rosin with no luck, but it's worth a try. When a scope moves it always slides back some degree. Put a spot of black nail polish on the front joint of rings and scope, any movement will then be very evident as a large crack will appear in the nail polish. Of course any color will work. I have a .458 that will move the scope. The only thing that has worked so far is the paper strip inside the lower ring.
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 04:23 PM |
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sako06
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My GS saved business cards, coated them with shellac and used them as try shims on scopes then if all was right he'd mic them and make a permanent metal shim.
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| Posted: Fri Nov 7th, 2008 12:24 PM |
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swampshooter
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I never found a need to waterproof the paper strips, but then if it's pouring down rain I tend to stay in camp. I found business cards to be a little bit too thick, but it is worth a try. I was always afraid a business card might dent the scope when tightened down.
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| Posted: Tue Nov 18th, 2008 11:41 PM |
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varmintcaller
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I use Rubber Cement, coat the inside of the rings (degrease first) let dry, and install the scope. I havent had a scope slip since using the Rubber Cement.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2008 03:05 AM |
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Rockydog
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I've heard of using a strip of 600 grit sandpaper between the rings and scope. Sandpaper to the scope side. Beware, it will leave a mark. RD
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| Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2008 06:50 PM |
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DesertMarine
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The December issue of American Rifleman has an excellent article on scope mounting. They use duct tape on the rings for a problem such as yours. They also talk about how much to torque mount and scope screws.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 26th, 2008 10:42 PM |
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SCSlim
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DesertMarine wrote: They use duct tape on the rings for a problem such as yours.
Yet another of the thousands of uses for that marvelous stuff.
I belonged to a flying club a few years back. One of our two planes (it was a small club) was an old rag-winged Cessna 120 taildragger. One of the members was out burning holes in the sky with it one day and flew into a flock of ducks. One of the unlucky devils struck the left wing about a foot from the root and made a pretty big ding in the leading edge and mashed about 1.5 square feet of the dope-covered fabric. We applied a temporary fix of - guess what - duct tape, and flew it without further incident until we had the time and manpower to re-cover and re-dope the affected wing. I flew it before, with, and after the patch job and didn't notice any degradation in performance at all.
Long live duct tape! May their stock ever be on the rise.
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| Posted: Fri Nov 28th, 2008 11:31 AM |
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40twist
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DesertMarine wrote: The December issue of American Rifleman has an excellent article on scope mounting. They use duct tape on the rings for a problem such as yours. They also talk about how much to torque mount and scope screws.
I did read that too it was a good article....then a week later I bought "shooting" magazine and they had the same article in it too. You may be very surprised at how little they need to be tightened down when installed correctly.... when that torque driver clicks its like theres NO WAY that is going to hold it but it does... I also always use blue loctite , a tiny bit , on my screws.
If you overtightened it initially the screws may be damaged to the point that they have no "stretch" left and therefore cannot be "Preloaded" to keep themselves tight anymore. If they where cheap rings i would buy another set and start over....whatever you do DON'T go cranking on those screws tighter and tighter trying to make it not come loose... you will do more damge then good.
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| Posted: Fri Nov 28th, 2008 02:33 PM |
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bea175
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Replace the rings with Warne Maxim and your problem will go away
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| Posted: Sat Nov 28th, 2009 03:41 AM |
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TnTom
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Don't use anything but copper shim (.002"). Cut it in strips for upper and lower. Break edges of shim on a fine stone the re-mount the scope and zero. After you have zeroed the rifle loosen the rings and Locktight all your screws.
You should have already compensated for proper interference with the shims. Tighten the screws and do not fire it for 12-24 hours let the locktight set completely. re-zero.
Don't use soft materials to shim if you have any desire to keep an accurate zero for any length of time.
Did you lap the rings? Lapping can create a less than tight fit but assures good bearing after shimming.
If you didn't lap the rings consider it and shim appropriately. It creates proper bearing of the rings to the tube. I haven't see a lot of rings that lapping didn't improve (and it doesn't take much to improve everything).
Last edited on Sat Nov 28th, 2009 03:44 AM by TnTom
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| Posted: Sat Nov 28th, 2009 05:27 AM |
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3006 user
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I have used plain old Weaver rings and bases on Marlin 45-70, a custom .375 Weatherby, an Interarms .375 H&H, a 300 Weatherby, a Browning 308 Norma Mag, and several 30-06 rifles.
Contenders in 45 Win mag, 35 Rem, a custom 6.5X55mm,and a 30-30.
No scope movement... Not as pretty as some others, but they work!!
Just clean the ring, base and scope tube with one of the "blaster" cleaners and you're good to go...
I guess I'm probably different by having the opinion that the "turn-in" type of rings and mounts are a PITA..
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| Posted: Sat Nov 28th, 2009 03:07 PM |
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TnTom
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3006 user wrote: I have used plain old Weaver rings and bases on Marlin 45-70, a custom .375 Weatherby, an Interarms .375 H&H, a 300 Weatherby, a Browning 308 Norma Mag, and several 30-06 rifles.
Contenders in 45 Win mag, 35 Rem, a custom 6.5X55mm,and a 30-30.
No scope movement... Not as pretty as some others, but they work!!
Just clean the ring, base and scope tube with one of the "blaster" cleaners and you're good to go...
I guess I'm probably different by having the opinion that the "turn-in" type of rings and mounts are a PITA..
I'm sort of out with the jury on the turn in rings. My initial reaction was PITA. With the wrench for turning them in maybe less of a pain. A good straight 1" bar to assure they are aligned helps. Then I lap but I do that with all my rings.
Ive noticed that more and more rings aren't supporting a close tolerance on the I.D. and the gap between the upper and lower can very from front to rear rings and not a big deal unless one is oversize on the inside diameter, my last set of Ruger rings were "problematic" you might say. Last edited on Sat Nov 28th, 2009 03:09 PM by TnTom
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| Posted: Sat Nov 28th, 2009 03:27 PM |
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3006 user
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TnTom, I've also had problems with Ruger rings - rough, sharp edges,etc.. Bought a rail mount for my Mini14, used Weaver rings.. Other things while I'm "on" about Weaver: no lapping required and there's only one "gap" to contend with..
OK, I guess those who read this thread kinda get the idea that I prefer Weaver!!
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| Posted: Sun Nov 29th, 2009 03:17 AM |
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TnTom
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3006 user wrote: TnTom, I've also had problems with Ruger rings - rough, sharp edges,etc.. Bought a rail mount for my Mini14, used Weaver rings.. Other things while I'm "on" about Weaver: no lapping required and there's only one "gap" to contend with..
OK, I guess those who read this thread kinda get the idea that I prefer Weaver!!
I don't think I've ever had an issue with Weaver. Mounted many scopes with them. I think many times I went to Weaver in default and put the issue to rest
The one thing about Ruger is that they are adjustable for windage and that I really like but they must be looked at individually as Ruger doesn't sell them in pairs anymore. You buy a specific ring for the rear and a specific for the front (height). Weird but works.
I use Leuplod on a number of my guns and when set up right they are top notch in my opinion. I also use the Leupold adjustaboe bases and rings on my 10-22 and they have done well.
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