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m1 carbine
 Moderated by: klallen  

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dakotasin
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Joined: 8 February 2005
Location: Dizzy City, Wyoming USA
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 Posted: 25 July 2008 02:14 PM

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i was asked to post a few findings w/ my m1 carbine development when i got done, so here it be...

first, i tried loading for just the ruger blackhawk. after working thru a few different powders and bullets i gave speer 110 varminters (a half-jacketed hollow point design) a try, and found the gun would shoot extremely well at 100 yards. the load was a little over 14 grains of h-110, which put it over max, and the taper crimp was set to the bullet cannelure. i could easily and reliably shoot softballs at 100 yards w/ the factory sights.

the next step was to try this load in my m1 carbine. since the carbine is not a tackdriver, i figured as long as i could get the load to reliably function in the gun, it was good enough. i loaded 5 in the magazine and went to charge the gun. jam! the cartridge didn't even make it past the feed ramp, and the tip of the bullet got smashed into wild shapes. i worked the case into the chamber, and let the charging handle rip. gun failed to go into battery. closer inspection revealed the bullet was seated way to long and was deeply engaging the lands.

so i started over again using h-110 and seating the bullets all the way to the second groove on the bullets. the groove isn't a cannelure, but does provide a good landmark for seating depth. i ran thru the development process again w/ both guns and found that 13.0 grains was reliable in the m1 and accurate enough for softballs at 50 yards. i have had no feeding problems in the carbine w/ these bullets, which i am pleased w/. many people told me these bullets wouldn't feed in the m1 carbine.

the problem now is this load likes to eject brass into the shooter's forehead. outside of that, i am satisfied w/ the load, and will try it on coyotes this weekend in the blackhawk. the new load runs about 100 f/s slower than the old load, but it is accurate enough and reliable in the carbine.

so... does anybody know what i need to do to get the carbine to quit ejecting brass into my forehead?



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Timberghozt
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 Posted: 25 July 2008 04:16 PM

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Interesting Dakotasin..Hmm I dont know anyway to reliably change the ejection angle of the brass bro..My mini14 has a habit of burning my forearm with hot brass somehow now and then:sad:never figured that one out either..
btw..
check your pms:thumbs:
The huntin is gonna be good this year:thumbs:
TG



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lcc123
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 Posted: 25 July 2008 06:04 PM

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dakotasin wrote: so... does anybody know what i need to do to get the carbine to quit ejecting brass into my forehead?

The sure way to correct the "brass in forehead" problem is to replace the slide with a later model.  The cam on the later design is angled forward to prevent the brass from ejecting backwards into your forehead.  The other options are to replace the ejector and/or extractor and hope that does the trick.  Both the ejector and extractor are pretty cheap, but you need a bolt tool to get the bolt apart and back together again.  My carbine does a nice jop of parting my hair, but misses my forehead. :wink:

72coupe
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 Posted: 26 July 2008 01:36 AM

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You might be able to tune the ejection angle by trimming the ejector spring. This is commonly done with AR15s. Take a little off, say 1 coil, and try it. It may take 2 or 3 tries to get what you want but the springs are cheap.

Some people grind the ejector rod at angle. This again is commonly done to ARs.



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dakotasin
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 Posted: 30 July 2008 01:29 PM

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took the ruger blackhawk and m-1 carbine to the range to chronograph the two guns. there is roughly a 450 f/s difference in velocity between the two guns, w/ the carbine having the higher numbers.

i chronographed 2 different handloads and some factory loads, and the difference was pretty consistent. all bullets were 110 grains.

i also noticed the carbine is pretty hard on cases in the form of case stretch or incipient head seperation. i've got a few cases w/ the ring around the head.



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