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pika
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| Location: | Sheridan, Wyoming USA |
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Posted: 26 July 2008 05:52 PM |
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I have a 7.62x54 case separation with my Lee full length resizer die. The head separated leaving the remainder of the case in the die. I tried tapping it out with a wooden dowel but that didn't work. Some where I thought I'd seen that Lee had a method for removing a separated case but I can't find it. Maybe it was just a stuck case I had seen. I check my cases pretty close when I prep them. This is my first in hundreds of reloads. These dies are getting a little long in the tooth so I may just get some new dies unless one of you fella's have the magic wand I'm looking for..
Thanks..
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Rockydog
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| Joined: | 26 July 2005 |
| Location: | Wisconsin USA |
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Posted: 26 July 2008 08:28 PM |
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pika, Disclaimer first: I'm not a gun smith or die maker so my advice may be worth what it cost you to get it. That being said, I've reloaded 7.62X54 for about 20 years. With the extreme taper of that case I find it hard to believe that it would be stuck on the case wall. My guess is that more than likely the neck is the problem. I would mic the outside diameter of your previously sized but not yet loaded cases. Select a drill bit that is just slightly smaller than that diameter and very carefully attempt to drill out the neck. Remember to allow for the fact that the expander button has pulled the case out a bit wider than wider than the diameter of the die. I wouldn't try to drill it all out, I'd bet that once it gets to the thickness of tin foil the tension will let off and it will come out on the drill bit. Be aware that there are at least a couple of risks. 1. If you get the slightest amount off of true center you may nick the die wall and scratch it, It's probably harder than drill steel so I doubt if you'd actally remove enough material to harm it but a scratch could lead to more stuck cases. 2. If it's not the neck that's stuck now you'll have nothing to tap on the try to remove the case. In either scenario you'd end up with a new die but it sounds like you are resigned to that anyway.
Another option may be to try and find a separated case remover for that cartridge. I have one for my 223. It looks just like a cartridge but where the bullet would be is a set of split jaws that spread out ward to catch the cartridge mouth and remove it. It's designed for use in a rifle where it simply hooks on the extractor like a case and pulls out the case but I can't see why it wouldn't work in a die too. In fact if you changed shell holders in your press one from a 308 or .06 might work too.
Perhaps others will have a better idea. Good luck. RD
Last edited on 26 July 2008 08:28 PM by Rockydog
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pika
HB Full Member
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Posted: 26 July 2008 08:59 PM |
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Thanks Rocky,, That sounds good to me. If it doesn't work that's ok too. Midway will be glad to hear from me  .. Have to prop up our falling dollar anyhoo !!.
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72coupe
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Posted: 27 July 2008 02:38 AM |
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If you know an old highpower shooter he probably has a separtaed case extractor in 06 or 308.
I say old because all the new ones shoot 223.
You might try freezing in in your freezer and then tap it out.
Here is an idea speaking of tap. Find a tap that is only slightly larger than the inside diameter of the sized case neck. Run a set of threads in the neck screw a bolt into the pull it out.
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72coupe
Handloading Master
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Posted: 27 July 2008 02:41 AM |
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| As an after thought 7.62X54 and 303 and the belted magnums should be sized only to set the shoulder back 0.002 to 0.004 inch when reloaded.
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pika
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Posted: 27 July 2008 02:12 PM |
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Well, I got the dadblasted thing out thanks to you guy's...I used the drill method starting out with a 5/16 then carefully worked up with 21/64 and 11/32. The 11/32 cut the neck off at the top of the shoulder and I got that part out, but the case was still stuck. I think it was where the head separated, very ragged and jammed at that point. I used a needle file to file up the length of the case untill I cut through enough to tap the tip of a jewelers screw driver under the ragged edge and lift it up enough for a bit larger screw driver then some pointed pliers to twist and pull the case out. I looked at the inside of the die very close and I don't see any marring or damage. That says something for the very hard steel the dies are made of. Im not of that faith, but I was looking for some Rosary Beads to count !!! Thank you all again for your help. You now belong to the Loyal Order of Good Guy's..
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pika
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Posted: 27 July 2008 10:17 PM |
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| 72coupe,, You mentioned setting the shoulder back .002 to .004 on the 7.62x54, Is that normaly done with the sizer die ??.
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72coupe
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Posted: 27 July 2008 11:15 PM |
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Yes, start with you die not screwed all the way in. Put the ram on your press all the way up and screw in your die to the top of the shell holder. Then turn you die out a full 2 turns. Put a case in the shell holder and run it into you die. Remove the case and carefully inspect it. You should be able to tell how much of the neck has been sized. Screw the die in a little at a time and size the case till the die just touches the shoulder. After that turn the die in about 1/8 of a turn more and lock the locking ring.
The die is now set for resizing only cases that are fired in that particular rifle.
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pika
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Posted: 27 July 2008 11:24 PM |
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| Alright !! ,, What is the reason for this ?.. This one is new to me because I've usually loaded the 06, and 6.5x55. I may have heard this before, but being 40% fuzzy headed I don't remember.. Thanks for your help...
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72coupe
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Posted: 27 July 2008 11:31 PM |
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You should do this for all calibers if you intend to load your cases more than 3 or 4 times. Sizing this way will extend your case life as it doesn't over work your brass.
It is the only way to prevent case separations.
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pika
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Posted: 28 July 2008 12:25 AM |
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| Got it !! Thanks agin....
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Rockydog
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Posted: 28 July 2008 02:37 AM |
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72, Do you feel that minimal sizing is more important with rimmed and belted cases or with non rimmed cases? I guess I'm asking if you think head separations are more frequent with rimmed and belted cases and if so is it because the rim or belt keeps the head from moving forward in the chamber. logic would tell me that because the firing pin can't move the case forward most of the stretch would occur at the neck. With a conventional case the firing pin can move the case forward and as the case expands it will grip the chamber walls and stretch the head backward to the bolt head.
Pika, Sometimes it helps if you "smoke" the case neck with a little soot. Makes it very easy to see how far the neck is being sized. Try a candle right away when you light it before it has a chance to get burning hot enough to burn clean. RD
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pika
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Posted: 28 July 2008 02:56 AM |
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rockydog,, yes I have used the candle smoke before to set the proper LOA. I'll use that to check for set back.. Thanks
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72coupe
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Posted: 28 July 2008 04:10 AM |
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I think that head separations are more common in rimmed cases because many of the rifles for them have long space for the shoulder. I have heard of 303 Lee Enfields that had as much as 1/8 inch spare room for the shoulder.
Not sizing to the shoulder for this situation means very short case life.
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