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couple of questions
 Moderated by: klallen  

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64Impala
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 Posted: 13 November 2008 01:47 PM

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Hi Guys -

Worked up my first loads last night and am going to shoot them come hell or high water :lol:

I've got two questions. 

1.  What should I feel when inserting the new primer?  I used a hornady pocket reamer to remove the crimp on my PRIVI brass and when I insert the primer (using a lee turret) I feel almost no resistance.  There is so much mechanical advantage with the lever I don't know if I would actually feel anything anyway.  Is there anyway to test a primed case?

2.  Given the same recipe bullet (same brass,primer powder charge etc) fired from two different rifle barrels lengths (say 1:9 16" versus a 1:12 24") which will generate the higher pressure?  It seems to me that the 24" barrel would because the bullet takes "longer" to exist the barrel.  Is this a a correct statement  or am I over simplifying?

What drives question #2, is my reloading data that I'm using is from a 1:12 24" barrel using a hornady 55 grain HP.  I'm shooting a 1:9 16" with a hornday 55 grain FMJBT.  The max load for my powder is 25.3 (my max worked up load is 24.8).

Any help/advice is appreciated!

Thanks!

Joe



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72coupe
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 Posted: 13 November 2008 03:08 PM

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I think but don't know that most serious loaders will use one of the hand primers in a separate operation, Lee, Hornady or RCBS.

I think that barrel length has little to do with peak pressure as that occurs early in bullet travel.

Twist rate does have a small effect on pressure but I think it is small.



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Force_Recon_Marine
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 Posted: 14 November 2008 01:45 AM

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You have to be careful when removing the crimp from military brass. If you remove to much then the primer can blow out when fired. This can obviously cause jams in ar rifles. You should feel some resistance when seating primers.

With a longer barrel you can build more pressure if you use a slower powder. The slower powder takes longer to burn and it builds pressure as the bullet is travelling down the barrel. If you are using the same powder the pressure should be the same unless you are using a slow powder that doesnt burn up until after the bullet exits the barrel in the short barrelled rifle. You would have excessive muzzle flash if that was the case.

Just my thoughts. :thumbs:



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64Impala
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 Posted: 14 November 2008 01:21 PM

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I went into the shop and experimented a little bit with my reamer and I did indeed remove WAY to much material.  I was running the reamer until it hit the bottom of the primer pocket.  The logic was the reamer diamter was about .170, the primer pocket was about .168-.169 (depending on how I measured), so I figured I wasn't really changing the pocket that much.  The reamer did put a pretty good chamfer on the leading edge of the pocket (where the crimp would be) and that is probably where my problem is coming from.

I've got about 900 pieces of brass that I guess I'll have to scrap out :sad:.  I should have done a couple and tested before running my whole batch using the reamer.

I think I'll try just a 45° counter sink on the drill press.  I'll set the stop on the chuck to just touch off and see how that works.  That way I'm not touching the internal diameter of the pocket.

All that polishing, sizing, trimming, etc etc etc...  down the crapper.  Well, live and learn I guess... 



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Force_Recon_Marine
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 Posted: 14 November 2008 08:44 PM

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On the plus side it is a lesson that you will never forget. We have all made our share of mistakes. Good learning experiences. :thumbs:



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Paul Tummers
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 Posted: 14 November 2008 11:46 PM

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I had a couple of "nice" days removing the crimps of military  .223 cases, used my RCBS deburring tool, was slow but worked.



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Oddbod
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 Posted: 15 November 2008 02:40 AM

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Paul Tummers wrote: I had a couple of "nice" days removing the crimps of military  .223 cases, used my RCBS deburring tool, was slow but worked.
I do it the same way - a quick twist is all it takes.

64Impala:
You're not going to feel much if anything when using your Lee turret press to seat the primers with it seating at the top of the stroke.
The Hornady tool is designed to remove the crimp without making the primer pocket too large, so I doubt you've ruined the brass (if you can push a primer into the pocket with a finger, then that's different.....).


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