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Aluminum Vs "Iron" Molds
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 Posted: Wed Apr 15th, 2009 03:15 AM
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miestro_jerry
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Lets hear from everyone about which molds they use and the metal they are made of.

I have a lot of Lyman, RCBS and Saeco molds, but now I am buying a great deal of Lee Aluminum molds. I do have a couple of molds that have no manufacture names on them, and I have a "factory Holland and Holland" mold that came with a rifle I now own. Plus I have a 1920s (I think) made mold that the mold body is made out of bronze, this mold came from my Great Unle Walters estate.

So far, I haven't found anything wrong with either metals for your basic molds, I think it is just know how to care for them. I am using Lee molds on a daily basis along with my others and the Lee's haven't shown any wear and tear.

So what do people use in their casting and how many years have you been using them?

Jerry



 Posted: Wed Apr 15th, 2009 11:35 AM
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Charley
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I use mostly aluminum, with some iron molds. Both work fine, each type has its own quirks. Neither is better, they are just different. I see constant references to "junky Lee aluminum molds" that "fell apart" after a couple of uses. I've also known people who can break an anvil in short order. Treat your tools with proper respect, and they will last.

 



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 Posted: Wed Apr 15th, 2009 01:11 PM
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Dirtkicker
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I started casting back in '55 and still have all my iron molds from then. Lymans they are. There was a long gap in there when I did no casting, but lately— because of the current ammo situation and the chance that it will only get worse— I have been on a "self-sufficiency" program and have been buying molds, accumulating lead, cases, primers, and other components. These new additions are my first Lee molds and they seem to be well made. The price is sure right compared to Lyman and Saeco gear.



 Posted: Wed Apr 15th, 2009 01:54 PM
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Ranch 13
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Mass produced molds I tend to prefer RCBS. Lyman close behind.

The Lee molds are ok for the smaller bullets , but there's not enough metal in them for the larger bullets , letting the blocks heat to fast and not cool down. They also have not lasted long when casting lots of bullets. The blocks themselves just seem to be to soft to hold up well to casting 1000's. I'm speaking of the 1 and two cavity molds , have no experience with the 6 cavity and have no desire to.

The brass that Old West uses is very user friendly and probably the best of both worlds , the mass and stability of the iron and the smooth and quick heating of the aluminum.

 



 Posted: Wed Apr 15th, 2009 02:38 PM
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I had lyman & lee molds.Lyman for 32 caliber & the lee for 405gr 45-70 cast bullets ,the lee worked fine.



 Posted: Wed Apr 15th, 2009 06:48 PM
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+ 10 charley !!!!!!!!!!!

i use mostly iron ( lyman and rcbs) followed by aluminum ,the only brass bronze i have ever used is a antique colt in .36 caliber,IMO the iron takes a little longer to get started producing good boolits -both warm up and breaking in ,i have also cast many many pounds of fishing sinkers some are aluminum some i'm sure are some other sort of alloy no idea what tho but doesnt quite resemble pot metal but close , the biggest that i cast ? a 4# hammer that i use reclaimed 1/2 gas pipe for the handles ,the sprue alone on that thing is several ounces btw , i have seen old stone molds for bullets and assorted stuff even wood molds tho i'm pretty sure those wouldnt last for many castings ,i came across some hard lead one day ( scrap) that was cast into old quart paper milk cartons -that's a chunk of lead !!!!!! a good ol boy taught me how to use pewter and lead for bolsters on knifes as well as leather or masking tape to put the lead rings around pipestone peace pipes to make them look more authentic ,not a durable mold to be sure but it works .


edit for the blatant typo's geez i cant type at all today -oops:coffee:

Last edited on Wed Apr 15th, 2009 06:50 PM by fryboy



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 Posted: Fri Apr 17th, 2009 04:34 PM
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Rickster
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:thumbs: I have and continue to use a bit of everything to include iron molds by RCBS, Lyman, SAECO, and Lee aluminim molds.  I prefer casting with the Lee 6 cavity molds. I cast mostly for handgun calibers where I shoot a bunch of rounds each year. The Lee 6 cavity molds are ideal for this purpose.  I agree that aluminum molds have their down side. They are more fragile than iron molds (easy to dent or ding if you're not careful) and they can heat up quickly. I get around this by casting with two or three 6 cavity molds at the same time.  Alternating the molds prevents one from overheating... Iron molds have their down sides as well. Number one is they are prone to rust. They also cost much more than the Lee molds and take many attempts each casting session before producing good bullets.  Thus I consider the aluminum vs iron molds comparison to be a trade off.   Because of the advantages mentioned, when buying new molds I will only purchase Lee products.  The only way I go with iron molds anymore is if I get a good deal on a used one....  



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 Posted: Sat Apr 18th, 2009 03:32 AM
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I also have a variety of molds.  Most are Lyman double cavity, and a few Lee single cavity.  Sizes range from .25, .30, and .375 cal rifle, .38/.357, .44, and .45 cal pistol, and .36, .44, .45, and .54 cal round ball and .54 cal Improved Minie Ball for black powder.  I have at least 14 molds.  I've used many of them for more than 30 years.

I always cast with two molds and alternate them to allow the bullets to cool.  I've had equally good results with both aluminum and iron molds.

Montana has a dry climate, but to help prevent rust, I always leave the last bullet(s) in the mold and leave the sprue on.  Then I spray the outside of the mould with oil, wrap it in wax paper, and store it in it's factory box.



 Posted: Sat Apr 18th, 2009 09:46 PM
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Only difference I can tell between aluminum and iron is how fast aluminum moulds heat up (and cool off again).  Both seem to drop good quality bullets when the melt is the right temperature and properly fluxed.

From an aesthetic point of view, I like iron better. It just hefts better on the end of the handles, and I like the color of the mould blocks better.



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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2009 02:54 AM
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RugerSP101
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Dirtkicker wrote: I started casting back in '55 and still have all my iron molds from then. Lymans they are. There was a long gap in there when I did no casting, but lately— because of the current ammo situation and the chance that it will only get worse— I have been on a "self-sufficiency" program and have been buying molds, accumulating lead, cases, primers, and other components. These new additions are my first Lee molds and they seem to be well made. The price is sure right compared to Lyman and Saeco gear.
I like my Lee mold, but one of the guidepins was loose from the start. I tried a couple times to get it set in better, but eventually it fell out and its gone.
Looking at the way the mold is designed, it does seem likely that some of the guidepins are going to fall out at some point even if a person takes very good care of the mold. I typically take excellent care of all of my tools. :)

Im definitely going to try out something 'better' than the Lee molds next time I buy one.

Last edited on Sat May 2nd, 2009 02:56 AM by RugerSP101



 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2009 04:02 AM
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miestro_jerry
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I never had any problem with the Lee molds. I do take really good care of my molds, so far I had one set Lyman handles break after 20 years of service. I made the mistake of loaning a 356 90grain mold to a friend with a M11 in .380 (real Rock and Roller) and he droped the mold. The mold has a chipped corner, but still works. He bought me a 356 124grain mold for the damages, so I have two of those now.

Now I buy Lee 6 cavity handles, because  they work with my Lyman and RCBS molds.

I run across some molds from the 50s and 60s on occasion, generally garage sales. So the wallet coems out and there are new members to my collection of molds.

With a rifle I got from my great uncle Walter, I got a mold made by or for H & H. It is a single cavity mold with handles. it casts a .600 bullet to be used as cast, no lube.

Jerry

 

 



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