| Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 12:11 AM |
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-6
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Just wondering if anyone offers just the boolit shells so casters can fill them. That way we could use full power w/o leading our barrels or the bullets disentergrating. wc
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| Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 12:24 AM |
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Rockydog
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-6, I've got a similar goal to yours but I'm going down a different path. I've got a dozen cast boolits all paper patched and drying on the reloading bench. Tonight I'm going to coat them in paste wax and size them to .311. I've got some 7.62 x 54 cases expanded to .311 with the neck flared just a bit with my 8mm die. I'm going to start about 3-4 grains under my normal load of H380. And see what happens as I move up. I may need a larger sizer though as conventional wosdom says these should approach .314. We'll see where they shoot. RD
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| Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 12:38 AM |
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-6
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Was also wondering if anyone has said liners with the tips off so the lead would produce a "soft point" boolit. wc
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| Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 04:41 PM |
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Draciron
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I'd be interested in such a product as well. I strongly prefer jacketed bullets and just to have bullets am likely to have to resort to casting soon.
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| Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 06:59 PM |
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-6
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Will check with Speer/etc. wc
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| Posted: Thu Aug 13th, 2009 04:21 PM |
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miestro_jerry
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Maybe a good place to look is with the swaging industry or flind some on who swages their own bullets and maybe they will sell you want you are looking for.
Trying to pour lead into a copper jacket is tricky and you may not get a good bonding between the jacket and the lead.
Jerry
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| Posted: Thu Aug 13th, 2009 07:51 PM |
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Paul B
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-6 wrote: Was also wondering if anyone has said liners with the tips off so the lead would produce a "soft point" boolit. wc
That would be about the same as taking milsurp FMJ bullets and filing the tip off the nose of the bullet.  It's not considered a good idea because the lead core has been known to blow though the jacket leaving the jacket stuck in the bore, thus becoming an obstruction creating a problem when firing the next shot. 
Jerry mentioned the fact that, " Trying to pour lead into a copper jacket is tricky and you may not get a good bonding between the jacket and the lead."
I agree. That would increase the odds of having the core blow out of the jacket and creating that bore obstruction. Not a vey good idea IMHO. Body parts are awfully hard to replace.
Paul B.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 13th, 2009 10:20 PM |
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-6
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Lead doesn't stick to much of anything very well but there is some way to bond it for sure---I hope, wc
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| Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 02:00 AM |
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Rockydog
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Years ago Herters and other companies made half jacket cups that were almost like extra long gas checks. I believe they are still available from Corbin. These are swaged onto lead cores. I believe most are probably used in revolvers. RD
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| Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 04:25 AM |
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-6
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Will give them a good look--thanks, wc
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| Posted: Fri Aug 14th, 2009 05:35 AM |
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-6
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RD, checked with Corbin per your instructions and yahoo, they have swaging dies and the shells to do it. Just plum tickled and a grinnin. Now if I can afford those expensive looking dies. Afraid to ask-lol. wc
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2009 05:50 AM |
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steel13
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There are several reason why pouring lead into a jacket wouldn't work,the biggest reason being the wouldn't shoot worth a damn even if you got reasonably close to filling the jacket full. Swaging is a completely different story.
There are bullet companies such as Nosler that injects molten lead into jackets to make their bonded core bullets, but that injected, not poured.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 30th, 2009 12:50 PM |
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-6
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In reading they do a heating process that bonded soft to harder alloy. Will check on this during the winter when I have more time. Sure would be nice to be able to do your own FMJ or soft tips, wc
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| Posted: Sun Aug 30th, 2009 09:20 PM |
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Paul B
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-6 wrote: In reading they do a heating process that bonded soft to harder alloy. Will check on this during the winter when I have more time. Sure would be nice to be able to do your own FMJ or soft tips, wc
That melted lead won't bond with the jacket regardless of heat unless they use some kind of fluxing material. Lead just won't stick otherwise.
Paul B.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 30th, 2009 11:42 PM |
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miestro_jerry
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To answer the orginal question, none are available that I know of. The best thing to get your speed up is a good gas check.
I don't go above 2,500 FPS with any of my CBs normally and I have experiment with CBs going up to 2,900 fps with mixed results.
But I have pretty much done every thing a jacketed bullet can with cast bullets, including target shooting, hunting, plinking and just about any thing else. What I don't do with CBs is shoot them thru gas operated rifles.
Jerry
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 12:34 AM |
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-6
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Jerry, how do you harden them enough to keep from leading your rifling? What percentage alloy do you use? Do you water cool them? I have a good supply of factory boolits but would like to be able to comfortably use cast, wc
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 04:55 AM |
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steel13
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-6 I believe the results that you are looking for are only possible by swagging. But unfortunately, unless you are making a specific bullet for a specific application I think that you will find that this is somewhat cost prohibitive. You'll probably be able to buy bullets cheaper than you can make them if you consider you time into the equation.
Someone else may have a different perspective on this, I only cast. If I could knock out jacketed bullets as cheaply and as fast as I cast, thats what I would do. Good luck and let us know how the project progresses.
Justin
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 01:43 PM |
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miestro_jerry
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Actually you can really harden lead to handle high velocities in a rifle. No matter what you will get some leading.
First use real Linotype alloy
second Chilled Water Quench (38 to 42 degrees F)
third Heat Treat them.
fourth use Hornady or Gator checks
fifth Lube with a synthetic lube,ie VooDoo bullet lube
sixth size to .001 over bullet designation. ie for .308 use .309 or .001 over what your barrel slugs out to.
If you are an experienced caster, add .5% Arsenic to your lead between steps one and two. Use a lot of care and safety equipment when adding this step to the process.
You will get some very hard bullets by doing this. BHN test for the ones I have made in the past 24 to 26 in hardness.
Good luck,
Jerry
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2009 04:34 PM |
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Paul B
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"If you are an experienced caster, add .5% Arsenic to your lead between steps one and two. Use a lot of care and safety equipment when adding this step to the process."
The easiest way to do that is use magnum bird shot in the smallest size you can find. best if it nothing larger than 7 1/2 shot. The arsenic not only hardens the shot, but in the smaller sizes aids in making then as round as possible while falling in the shot tower. Because of their smaller size, more arseninc is used for them. I've found that1/3 cup od 7 1/2 shot does a good job of making my cast bullets harder. I've never found though that water dropping linotype as is made them any harder, but adding that 1/3 cup went a long way in bringing the BHN level up.
Personally, I feel using linotype alone for bullets is a waste of linotype, just as too much tin is a waste of an expensive component. My normal working alloy is 10 pounds of cleaned wheel weights, one pound of linotype, a 36" piece of 95/5 percent lead free solder and 1/3 cup of magnum bird shot (7 1/2 size. Couldn't find anything smaller.) As cast it is a solid 14 BHN after two weeks of age hardening and when water dropped a good 32 BHN after two weeks of age hardening. That 10 BHN points higher than fresh unused linotype BTW.
Paul B.
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-6
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Great scoop gents. Thanks bunchs, wc
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