| Posted: Wed Nov 18th, 2009 03:26 PM |
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21st Post |
miestro_jerry
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RD and all,
I have No Tresspassing signs on almost every other fence post, and the other fence posts have the NRA Firearms in use signs, I paid for a public notice that ran for three weeks in the local papers about if you want to hunt on my land, you need to stop by with a state permission slip and have a valid hunting license.
On top of that I had two "Deer Cams" and both of them vanished, maybe the deer are doing a spread for Field and Stream.
Still people have jumped the fence in the last couple of weeks.
People in my area are unemployed, broke and hungry, I just want them to get permission to be on my land.
Jerry
Attachment: firearmsinusesign.jpg (Downloaded 15 times)
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| Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2009 12:26 AM |
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22nd Post |
Novashooter
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Rockydog wrote:
Nova, I think the slits are needed to release the sabot from the bullet. Once they start down the barrel I think any torque or twist on them would stay consistent. You can only wind them so tight and once they reach that point the pressure behind them just keeps inceasing until they exit the barrel. Rockydog

It needs slits to release the sabot (unless you want a 1 piece slug), but I don't see a need for the gap.
____________________ "A fanatic is one who sticks to his guns whether they're loaded or not." by Franklin P. Jones
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| Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2009 01:04 AM |
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23rd Post |
Rockydog
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Ah, Now I see what you are talking about. It'll be interesting to see what improvements were made. RD
____________________ "Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not." ~ Thomas Jefferson ~
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| Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2009 01:10 AM |
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24th Post |
Novashooter
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I don't know if I'm getting the 18 1/2" smooth bore or 24" rifled barrel yet. That said the 18 1/2" has a 3 1/2" chamber. Do you know any 3 1/2" slug loads? I would more like to load them just for fun than anything, but if they get 3" groups or better I wont hesitate to hunt with them. What got me thinking was the light field IDS slugs. Basically I would like to make the same thing for a lot less price. A box of light fields 3 1/2" slugs go for $18. Either barrel is fine with me both have advantages and disadvantages. I'll get whatever is cheaper when I have the money. Where I hunt if a deer is 25 yards away its either in a 3' section I cleared or 10 yards in brush. I like the shortness of the SB, and I like how I can reload .50 sabots for the RB. I am leaning closer to the SB just because 1 sabot slugs are $8+ per box and 2 I don't need the range of sabot slugs. Just 1 Q on the SB barrel look at the rear sight, is that fixed or is there a way to adjust the rear sight. Sorry for all the questions on a sabot slug reloading thread but I would just like them answered for once. The short barrel looks cool too.



Attachment: ids slug.jpg (Downloaded 8 times) Last edited on Thu Nov 19th, 2009 01:11 AM by Novashooter
____________________ "A fanatic is one who sticks to his guns whether they're loaded or not." by Franklin P. Jones
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| Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2009 03:13 AM |
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25th Post |
.45 COLT
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miestro_jerry wrote: Here is an idea using these Sabot, using either a strong hull or one of the brass hulls
Unless the sabot is made specifically for a brass hull, I don't believe it'd work too well. The brass hull has an ID too large. You would have to use a seperate 11 Gauge overpowder wad, then the sabot, which would rattle around in the hull.
For heavy field/buckshot/slug loads, I personally like the Fiocchi hulls, although I also use others. Target shooters cuss the Fiocchis because they can't get a lot of reloads per hull, but for a hunting load, the Fiocchi is a pretty decent hull.
DC
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