No announcement yet.

JB Bore Polish VS Iosso

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • JB Bore Polish VS Iosso

    I have a new barrel that I want to "pre" break in. I was thinking about using JB bore paste for about 20 rounds of shooting in a new barrel. I don't currently have any JB on hand but I do have some Iosso bore cleaning paste. Does the Iosso have micro grits like the JB does? My heavy barreled .223 was hand lapped with JB upon barrel installation and it shoots lights out. Has anybody here tried using either product? Mike
    Every once in a while in life we need a policeman, a lawyer, a doctor and a preacher. We need a farmer three times a day, every day.

    Et Canis Manducare Canis Mundi

  • #2
    I use the regular JB and the JB Bore Bright. Fantastic stuff. The only barrels I have broken in with JB is a 1911 match grade and the Criterion that is on my 6.5. Both clean up quickly and are plenty accurate. I run the Bore Bright through most of my bolt guns after every 100 rounds or so.

    I have not used losso. I have used Flitz to try to correct a barrel that would collect very heavy carbon deposits in a few areas after just a few shot. It definitely shot better after and did not collect buildup, but it did not retain the polish. Unlike with JB, it got scrub worthy dirty rather quickly.
    Friends don't let friends shoot factory ammo.

    Continuous effort - not strength or intelligence - is the key to unlocking our potential.
    -Winston Churchill


    • #3
      I've used all three. JB "Blue" is the fastest/first use, followed by JB "red" for final polish. Iosso paste (tube with flag) has more grit and you have to make sure you remove it all. Iosso seems much harder to remove, from bore after use. Iosso "gun Brite" (camo tube) is finer, less greasy version.

      With any of them, clean well after each use, to make sure you're working with bare barrel, for next series of shots.
      Columbia Falls, MT
      If we don’t speak out against the infringements of today, it will weaken our ability to stop the next infringements.
      Since it took 26th Amendment to change voting age, expanding rights under 14th Amendment. Why doesn't same requirement, to restrict rights, extend to 2nd Amendment?

      NRA Benefactor Life, NRA Ring of Freedom, NRA-ILA Partner in Freedom, GOA Patriot, SAF, Oath Keepers


      • #4
        If you are going to use a compound, I would invest in a Parker Hale style jag wrapped with a square patch. You will get a more consistent rub on the bore than if you wrap a worn brush. Sinclair has a decent video on using JB.
        Friends don't let friends shoot factory ammo.

        Continuous effort - not strength or intelligence - is the key to unlocking our potential.
        -Winston Churchill


        • #5
          Rockydog I was just reading on Bartlein's website. Lots of do's and don'ts, some of which fall in to the normal controversy around cleaning and breaking in. They do say using Losso is a never do. According to them, failing to get it all out results in fowling issued - they void the warranty if you use it. They also say not to use JB Bore Bright but don't say why, but are okay with the standard JB. They are also against brushes (they recommend Parker Hale jags) and say never use a brush with a paste cleaner. Pretty much everything they go over makes sense; they lay out a compelling argument. Worth a read in my opinion.

          Friends don't let friends shoot factory ammo.

          Continuous effort - not strength or intelligence - is the key to unlocking our potential.
          -Winston Churchill


          • #6
            Factory barrels I might break-in with the one shot, clean and that type of break-in.
            Premium barrels like Bartlein, Brux and those quality of barrels, no break-in.
            When I built my 284 Win with a Brux barrel, I researched several barrel makers for break-in.
            Some recommend break-in and some don't.
            I went with don't break in. Barrel is great. If I do my part, down to .25" groups.
            I just got a Tikka in 6.5 CM. No break-in, very little copper and easiest barrel to clean.
            Have some pretty good groups in load development but no clear verdict yet.
            Took off factory stock and put a McMillan A3 stock on it.
            Pretty good discussion at Sniper's Hide on barrel break-in.
            "The United States Marine Corps is a drug and I am a recovering addict."

            "American by birthright… U.S. MARINE by the Grace of GOD!"

            "And on the 8th day God created Marines and like fish, we came from the sea!"


            • #7
              Got to give another plus one to DesertMarine. I don't break in new barrels, period. My smith, and well know builder of record breaking rifles told me the same thing. Both of us have spent a lot of time in machine shops and can't understand the fear of bronze brushes or the fear od brushes exiting the bore and the rod dropping on the inside of the barrel. If you have honed or polishes any steel this will become quickly appearent. I own and use both Isso and J-B's. Once I got a bore scope cleaning reached another level. The greatest area of need is just before the rifleing starts in the chamber. Carbon rings in this area the problem. The cure is a bronze bush 1 caliber larger than the bore, Isso and a rod mounted on a hole shooter. A few revolutions (less than 20) takes care of the problem nicely. Being careful not to enter the rifleing, but gently cleaning the throat. Was first exposed to this trick in Tony Boyer's book. There many ways to skin the cat and what works for me may not work for you.


              • #8
                RD look up a product called "Simichrome"
                most auto part stores carry it, It's about $10-12 a tube. I use it at break in and then about every 200-300 or so rounds to break down the really hard carbon fouling.