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  • bolt handle

    Local smith died.


    How difficult would it be to BEND a bolt handle on a 22 Marlin.

    It has a big curve and doesn't clear the scope. I don't have bending blocks nor a acy torch.

    Anyone do this?

  • #2
    I would consider cutting it off where it goes from square to round. Reshape it,maybe even have it tig welded on upside down. Less heat on the bolt.
    I was raised in the 50\'s on jackrabbits and gunpowder.salt and pepper wooda made\'em taste better

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    • #3
      Good thought Wheez. thanks

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      • #4
        The direct answer to your question is: No way to tell, since nothing is known about the heat treatment or alloy the bolt is built from. If it is in a brittle condition, you break it while bending. If soft (in the sense of malleable) a bend might be very successful. All that said, wheezer is right, cut it off at a "convenient" point and weld or silver solder it where you want it. Might be time to find a new smith with the necessary skills if you don't have them. Controlling heat on the bolt body is critical.
        -Remote locations are cheap insurance.
        -There are two kinds of ships: Submarines and targets

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        • #5
          Most likely the root of the handle is the only locking lug. Post a picture of the gun please.
          I was raised in the 50\'s on jackrabbits and gunpowder.salt and pepper wooda made\'em taste better

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          • #6
            Yes, Wheez. The square shank of the handle IS the only locking lug. So weilding there probably isn't a good thing.

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            • #7
              I built a Mosin M91/30 "sniper" and had to extend and bend the bolt. You cold possibly use the method I used. Cut the bolt at the base of the square lug, and drill a hole that measures whatever bolt diameter you want, 5/16 or 3/8 inch probably. Cut a steel rod longer than the bolt handle you want, heat and bend to the proper angle Cut the knob off the existing cut off bolt handle, drill the appropriate size hole in it. Either weld or hard solder the new handle into the hole drilled into the lug, be sure it is the length you want, then slip the knob with the drilled hole onto the new handle, and we/d/hard solder it in place. Actually, for a 22 rimfire, you could probably get away using one of the high strength steel epoxy products that are on the market now. Just be sure the hoes and handle are properly cleaned and degreased.
              "The fact that guns can kill another human being is the whole point. That\'s why they are so darn good at deterring violent criminals". Ann Coulter

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              • #8
                On 22 bolt guns, that square shank is the locking lug. Drill/tap would seriously weaken it. Cold bending seem to be the only way I can think off to keep that square at it's present met/hardening.

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                • #9
                  Bear, I have soldered SxS shotgun ribs back onto the barrels without melting the under rib solder by laying the barrels on a soaking wet towel as a heat sink. You simply need some type of heat sink to keep the lug cool. In my head I'm picturing that lug to be about 1/4 to 5/16 square. If you took a couple of 6" pieces of 3/8" aluminum stock and drilled a couple of holes in it to clamp the pieces around the lug, picture a tap wrench handle, it might pull enough heat away to allow hot bending of the handle, especially if you were using a quick heating source like a MAPP gas or acetylene torch.

                  Another thought is how is that lug fastened to the bolt? Is it all a single turned assembly or welded on? I had a .22 that had the lug turned round on the root end and simply pressed into a round hole in the bolt. It was a real challenge to find a way to secure it back into place when it fell out one day. I traded it to someone who was going to try silver soldering it in place. I don't know the outcome of that project. RD
                  Last edited by Rockydog; 07-14-2019, 09:49.
                  Every once in a while in life we need a policeman, a lawyer, a doctor and a preacher. We need a farmer three times a day, every day.

                  Et Canis Manducare Canis Mundi

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                  • #10
                    I may be wrong, but I had a 22 bolt gun, I think a Rem 512, that the bolt handle screwed into the lug. Might look there first for a possible solution.
                    I'd try clamping the lug in a vise jaw and applying pressure to bend the handle. Be kinda tricky to get the lug in the vise with the bolt on it, but maybe....
                    It's not that Democrats are so damned ignorant. Their problem is that everything they know is wrong.

                    Wimachtendienk, Wingolauchsik, Witahemui

                    He who knows not and knows not that he knows not, is a fool.
                    He who knows not and knows he knows not, is wise.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by olyeller View Post
                      I may be wrong, but I had a 22 bolt gun, I think a Rem 512, that the bolt handle screwed into the lug. Might look there first for a possible solution.
                      I'd try clamping the lug in a vise jaw and applying pressure to bend the handle. Be kinda tricky to get the lug in the vise with the bolt on it, but maybe....
                      You could take a piece of aluminum square stock, drill a hole the same dia of the bolt body. Then split it in half on a band saw. Use it like a barrel clamp around the bolt body and clamp in your bench vise. The aluminum will suck heat away from the bolt long enough to get the handle hot enough to bend easily. I have the whole thing in my head, but hard to describe here in type.

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                      • #12
                        I think Savageluvr is onto something... and add the Brownell's Heat Stop paste as an extra precaution, I have used the heat stop paste when bending Mauser bolts and so far never had an issue. Might be able to just use the paste but I would feel better with both on the 22LR bolt because the handle lug is part of the locking system. As far as no torch I would not use a propane job, I don't think they get hot enough quick enough and I wouldn't like to take forever to get it hot enough to bend.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Big Joe View Post
                          I think Savageluvr is onto something... and add the Brownell's Heat Stop paste as an extra precaution, I have used the heat stop paste when bending Mauser bolts and so far never had an issue. Might be able to just use the paste but I would feel better with both on the 22LR bolt because the handle lug is part of the locking system. As far as no torch I would not use a propane job, I don't think they get hot enough quick enough and I wouldn't like to take forever to get it hot enough to bend.
                          For sure would use an acetylene rig.
                          It's not that Democrats are so damned ignorant. Their problem is that everything they know is wrong.

                          Wimachtendienk, Wingolauchsik, Witahemui

                          He who knows not and knows not that he knows not, is a fool.
                          He who knows not and knows he knows not, is wise.

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