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Bore cleaner & lube, what's your pick?

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  • #16
    Used hoppes #9 all my life. A gun room don't smell right without it. Have a gallon can of military stuff. Mixed up a gallon of eds red but haven't tried it. Hoppes bench rest for copper. And 0-W-30 synthetic now for lube. I now have a climate controlled gun room temp and humidity so no worries about rust.
    I was raised in the 50\'s on jackrabbits and gunpowder.salt and pepper wooda made\'em taste better

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    • #17
      For the ER crowd, have you used it with Delrin rod guides / rod guides with o-rings?
      • Does the acetone attack the Delrin?
      • How long do you have to wipe it off the o-rings before it becomes a problem?
      Friends don't let friends shoot factory ammo.

      Continuous effort - not strength or intelligence - is the key to unlocking our potential.
      -Winston Churchill

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      • #18
        Regarding aroma....add some isoamyl acetate (aka banana oil) to Ed's Red and you are set. Doesn't smell like Hoppe's, more like airplane dope or the fruit section of the grocery store.

        I'm still working on Hoppe's aroma
        It's not that Democrats are so damned ignorant. Their problem is that everything they know is wrong.

        Wimachtendienk, Wingolauchsik, Witahemui

        He who knows not and knows not that he knows not, is a fool.
        He who knows not and knows he knows not, is wise.

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        • #19
          I did forget, that the one lonely bolt-action rifle, the rotating bolt bits that get GREASE, get the same Molybdenum Disulfide-laced E.P. Lithium chassis/bearing grease everything else around here gets.
          Steering and suspension linkages, mower spindles, etc.

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          • #20
            Thus far here's basically what we're using.

            Cleaner:
            Eds Red. 3
            Hoppe's #9. 4
            Bore Tech. 2
            Foaming. 2
            Ballistol. 1

            Oil:
            CLP. 3
            Slip 2000. 2
            Ballistol. 1
            Motor oil. 2
            MPro7. 1

            Ed's Red is actually a modern day copy of the Frankford Arsenal Nitro-Solvent Gun Cleaner No18 as described in Hatcher's Notebook, page 352. It was recorded by Hatcher in 1920. Sperm oil was replaced by the ATF as a modern substitute for the no longer available oil of old.
            Neither the original, nor the substitute will remove copper, however its best at lifting powder fouling and removing trace amounts of lead.

            Noticed Rem Oil was missing. Eezox too. Hummm. But then again, there's hundreds of products today.

            What do I use today? That depends on the mood. The AR15 gets cleaned with Uncle Wade's Carbon Cutter. Much like Frankford's No. 18, but with Kroil in place of kerosene and as with the others, ATF in for Sperm oil. It then has two polar and two non-polar oils. A greater flexibility in pulling carbon and other fouling from the pours in the steel, and then suspending it for removal.

            Oil is usually 10w30 motor oil. Motor oil has detergent in it, and it suspends fouling as well as providing lubrication. Very useful with the little black rifle as they carbon up bad.

            Pistols get the carbon cutter, but oiled with Rig #2 oil. A fine machine oil with greater viscosity than Rem Oil or Hoppe's Oil. And Rig #2 oil will not effect painted weapons, stocks, or O rings and such. Sadly, this oil was discontinued. I managed to get a few cans and spray before supplies dried up.

            But my real top stuff that I'm never without.....
            Ballistol! This 1904 designed product from the Fatherland, is by far the most versatile and reliable cleaner, oil, preservative I've ever seen. My horses would get cuts from thorns or fencing. Doctored em up with Ballistol. Zero infection and a fast heal. Used it on myself quite a bit.
            Cleans BP weapons like nothing else. Kept more than a few of my weapons in near mint condition. That helped in resale value. It mixes with water. Floats it to the surface to evaporate. And it lays down on the metal. If I had only one to keep, Ballistol would be it.

            Ok troops. That's what I use. And Lucas Oil, Rem Oil, Eezox, and a few more.... Like I said, depends on my mood.

            Anybody surprised?
            "Don't try to cover up a lack of training with a tool you don't understand."

            John Lovell on upgrades.

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            • #21
              Came late to the party, but to ease Kit's concern, RemOil gets into the tiny parts in my Citori before a mission to shatter clay birds.

              Other than that, for cleaning, I'm a throwback and go with Hoppe's #9 just about exclusively for anything that doesn't need steel wool to remove.
              Heavy wear surfaces get some kind or another of grease, still trying to find the "just right" but am leaning toward lithium based goop with a side glance at molydisulphide. Come along preservative time, old time chassis grease is just fine if you KEEP IT OFF THE WOOD.

              Dinosaur that I am, CLP seems too easy after shoving brushes up and down the bores for most of my life. Hard to believe it works like dot mil thinks.
              -Remote locations are cheap insurance.
              -There are two kinds of ships: Submarines and targets

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              • #22
                For carbon fouling, Ballistol and or Ed's Red.
                For lube 5W-20 (or 30) weight synthetic engine oil.
                Things that require grease like sear engagement points, Dow 111 Molykote, very heavily silicone laden high lubricity grease.
                For a rust inhibitor, LPS-3.
                Additionally, when I'm in a hurry, too disgusted after a disappointing day at the range or just too lazy to clean guns right then, wheel bearing grease on a nylon brush gets run through a rifles bore or anywhere carbon fouling is present on a handgun as well as in the bore.

                For those not familiar with 111 Molykote...
                Wide service temperature range (-40°c/-40°f to 200°c/392°f)
                Excellent water resistance.
                https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dow+111+g...f=nb_sb_noss_1

                As to LPS-3:
                Its probably best described as Cosmoline-lite. It can be used full strength and will leave behind a greasy/waxy coating that will protect steel easily for the next 10 years. Or you can thin it with almost any light oil and apply with a rag, allow it to sit for 10 minutes and then do a quick/light dry cloth wipe down and your ready for a year in storage or the next two week long hunting trip.
                https://www.amazon.com/LPS-Premier-R...%2C400&sr=8-11

                GC
                "To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes, the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors, is sinful and tyrannical."

                'Thomas Jefferson'

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                • #23
                  Un friendly oil.
                  Attached Files
                  I was raised in the 50\'s on jackrabbits and gunpowder.salt and pepper wooda made\'em taste better

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Kit Fox View Post
                    Thus far here's basically what we're using.

                    Cleaner:
                    Eds Red. 3
                    Hoppe's #9. 4
                    Bore Tech. 2
                    Foaming. 2
                    Ballistol. 1

                    Oil:
                    CLP. 3
                    Slip 2000. 2
                    Ballistol. 1
                    Motor oil. 2
                    MPro7. 1

                    .....:
                    I'd second the addition of Rem-Oil to this list
                    and add MILITEC-1® oil and grease: http://www.militec1.com



                    Ray

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                    • #25
                      Would like to read more about M-Pro7.
                      When to their website: http://m-pro7.com/contact

                      No "about us" and no "testimonies" there.
                      Ray

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by olyeller View Post
                        Hands down, mix up a gallon of Ed's Red. I love the stuff. The more you use it the better things get and the easier it is to clean.
                        A lot cheaper in the long run.


                        Go here for a complete article:
                        http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php?topic=61.0

                        The acetone can harm the stock finish, so be careful or leave it out of your batch. It just helps speed up the cleaning.
                        1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
                        1 part Kerosene
                        1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.Varsol is what I use
                        1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
                        (Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
                        I don't agree with Olyeller very often, especially when it comes to the benefits of .277 over .284 but I will agree with him here. Hands down, Ed's is the best IMO.
                        We must reject the idea that every time a law's broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for his actions.

                        ~Ronald Reagan

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                        • #27
                          The guy in the link has too much time on his hands. I have not tried half the stuff on his list but somehow came up with and use several of his top picks.

                          The WWll era military bore cleaner that looks like Elmer’s glue works like nothing else. First word in big letters on the top of the can are POISON. I have only used it in the house once before it got banned by the wife. Stunk for 3 days. Carcinogen in a can but it works when everything else has failed.

                          I have an old Winchester oil can I call the addict. I just give it a fix of the current wonder oil every so often to keep it happy. A few gallons over the years I’m sure.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	15023E9F-A66E-4277-B9D5-FE10D8CEC112.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	64.6 KB ID:	844532
                          Last edited by deaddog; 3 weeks ago.
                          Endeavor to persevere.

                          Call sign: Limp Wrist

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                          • #28
                            I'm also a moderate fan of Tetra products. Their cleaner is aggressive though non-etching. Cool. And their grease is stupendous! They have some good ideas when formulating their line of products. I'm giving them a second look.
                            "Don't try to cover up a lack of training with a tool you don't understand."

                            John Lovell on upgrades.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by RaySendero View Post
                              Would like to read more about M-Pro7.
                              When to their website: http://m-pro7.com/contact

                              No "about us" and no "testimonies" there.
                              Not exactly sure what you are looking for, but this is a brief history of the company:
                              https://www.forbes.com/forbes/2004/0...l#20d05430380a
                              Friends don't let friends shoot factory ammo.

                              Continuous effort - not strength or intelligence - is the key to unlocking our potential.
                              -Winston Churchill

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                              • #30
                                Interesting. Thx golong.
                                Ray

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